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How do I rebuild the mechanical clutch linkage?

$90... :yikes: i like the idea though. Could probably build something like this.
 
OK, I made a stop at the local PnP today looking for tires for both DD's got 8 - 175/65-R14's, all better than 90% tread, for 94.68 out the door. Score!

Then went looking for manual clutch linkage found 2 trucks with complete linkage from pedal down,including the bracket that mounts on the frame. now that I see how it all works it's way simple.
I think I will get (a) complete linkage, and then make modifications to the existing parts where I see possible wear issues. I have access to some super, strong small, Teflon coated heim joints that are conveniently being thrown away, off of and aircraft rebuild. I'll see if I can make something that will not wear out AND, still function correctly.

Thanks for all the help guys!
 
can't remember if you said it or not, but you'll need the peddle assembly.
 
If you ever make it through Kansas city mo. stop in classic truck parts and take a look at their 87 k10 shortbed with 89 original miles it's sweeeet!
 
I all ready got the mechanical pedal installed, and the mechanical clutch fork also installed ( it had to go in with the Bellhousing.)

Just need linkage... and a hole in the fire wall.
 
I just e-mailed a dude who has got a 4 speed trans for sale on CL. Says it's from a 91, doesn't mention 4x4 - so probably 2wd. Only wants $100 for it. I was thinking I could buy that up, offer like $80, and take the hydro set up off of it and then either hang onto the transmission and convert it to 4wd in the future since it will have a more desirable spline count (right? even though 2wd?), or I could sell the transmission again on CL with a manual bell housing on it after robbing all the hydro stuff. Thoughts?
 
I counted 6 hydraulic clutch set ups at Pic and pull yesterday.
I'm after the mechanical one though.
 
To eliminate the z-bar popping off the ball, I drilled two holes closer to the block on the frame rail, and moved the bracket closer to the engine on the frame rail.

Martin
 
I just e-mailed a dude who has got a 4 speed trans for sale on CL. Says it's from a 91, doesn't mention 4x4 - so probably 2wd. Only wants $100 for it. I was thinking I could buy that up, offer like $80, and take the hydro set up off of it and then either hang onto the transmission and convert it to 4wd in the future since it will have a more desirable spline count (right? even though 2wd?), or I could sell the transmission again on CL with a manual bell housing on it after robbing all the hydro stuff. Thoughts?

The 2wd SM465 uses a 35 spline output, the 4wd SM465's use 10 and 32 spline output shafts.

Martin
 
Just curious, but why?

Martin

For numerous reasons.
1. I all ready have the Mech bell housing installed.
2. Mech clutch linkages only fail when not maintained.
3. I can get eveything for the Mech set up for 20 bucks.
 
Oh, I got everything including the bracket on the frame for $19.00 out the door.
Now I gots to figure out where to make the hole in the floor for the rod between the pedal and the bellcrank bar.
I'm also making modifications to the rod, I don't like the way they wear out.
I'll post pics.
 
2. Mech clutch linkages only fail when not maintained.

this is true for non-wheeler trucks or trucks that see little suspension flex. The issue with these is that if you flex the body/frame/drivetrain in just the right way, the linkage becomes extended and when you press the pedal in the clutch may not disengage.

I'm also making modifications to the rod, I don't like the way they wear out.
I'll post pics.

I'd love to be kept apprised of this. if you start a new thread, will you PM me so i can make sure to see it?
 
Originally Posted by BoondocK5
2. Mech clutch linkages only fail when not maintained.


this is true for non-wheeler trucks or trucks that see little suspension flex. The issue with these is that if you flex the body/frame/drivetrain in just the right way, the linkage becomes extended and when you press the pedal in the clutch may not disengage.

Yeah, the hydraulic clutch line doesn't bind.

Martin
 
OK, who amongst you has an Illustrated Parts Breakdown of the parts that belong in the Bell crank I can't find a listing anywhere.
I know there is a seal at both ends, and 2 plastic halves the conform around the metal ball-stud(s)that act as pivot points that fit into either end of the Bellcrank, plus a snap ring on one end
Isn't there supposed to be a spring inside the bellcrank to keep it semi centered between the pivot balls?
 
might have found a guy who will sell me a complete hydro set up for $50. :D bell housing to pedal assembly. :D :D :D I had emailed him about the transmission (that 2wd I mentioned earlier) and asked if the $100 price tag included all that stuff - he replied saying for an extra $50 I could have it. I wrote him back to ask if I could buy the clutch stuff separately. We'll see... fingers crossed.
 
Ha! Scored a complete hydraulic set up from a local guy for $75 - pedal assembly thru bell housing. :D
 
Found both part numbers on summit Racing.
GMK4041-951-587S = plastic cone and spring clip.

GMK4041-951-589P = felt gasket, pair

Summit out of both parts. ordered from Goodmark $14.20 shipped.
 

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