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How do I wake up my truck? Update: Supercharger installed!

GsxrMike

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My tow rig/dd is a 1996 K3500 crewcab long bed with the 5.7 vortec. I recently bought a trailer and now I need to get some pep back into the motor. It only has 102,000 miles and runs fine but seems very doggy off the line. 0-70mph is 18 seconds. :o It seems to me that the truck should at least be able to spin a tire when I punch it but it just doesn't seem to have the grunt. I am wondering if there is anything I can do to the the truck to wake it up, I want it to run like it did when it was new. I am wondering if changing out the O2 sensors and MAF sensors etc will make any difference. The truck isn't throwing any codes so I don't know what the deal is, just seems like it should be slightly faster. We are going to check the fuel pressure and some other things tonight but I don't think there are any problems there because it runs great in the higher rpm range. After I get the truck running well again I plan on installing an exhaust, intake and tuner to help pull my trail rig. Thanks guys!
 
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i had a 96 c3500 crew cab longbed 5.7 . i was never impressed with it.

most i can say is programer / exaust / good tune up .
 
Have you changed the tire size? When was the last tuneup?
 
You could try cleaning the MAF sensor, and tuning it up should help. They have lots of problems with corrosion on the plug wires on these trucks. Even though it may not be missing, it may be restricting current flow.

Exhaust helps, but if it ran good before, it should run good without having to do that.
 
Tune up, Clean MAF, MSD Ignition, Open element cleaner, lower tstat, bump timing and run super.

Do everything you would do to cheat more performance out of a car.
 
Lower t-stat on the vortec engines will cause them to build up with excessive carbon in the cylinders. 185 should be the lowest, 195 is factory
 
I know this from experience. Brand new GM crate engine, ran a high flow cooler temp t-stat. After 200 miles when the dealer pulled off a head, they said there was a lot of carbon in them, the soft, not so crusty kind. Which explained why my plugs fouled before that. They said these newer engines are designed to run a higher temp, and it keeps them cleaner. It won't hurt performance.
 
Tune up, Clean MAF, MSD Ignition, Open element cleaner, lower tstat, bump timing and run super.

Do everything you would do to cheat more performance out of a car.

all of those are great. the timing bump will require higher octane fuel.

i have the same motor in the my offroad truck and its got jims performance tuning and all emissions stripped from it and it runs great and i havent done a tune up or anything but oil changes in 3 years.


prolly should do that since its been on its side etc.:doah:
 
See thats why this is a brotherhood and not "askstomis.com"


:D :haha:

and just how do you plan on using a open eliment air cleaner on a maf system ? :doah:

and only thing you can do with timming is set zero +/-2* of zero or check engine light will come on. and its computer controled. so only real way is reflash.
 
Tune up, Clean MAF, MSD Ignition, Open element cleaner, lower tstat, bump timing and run super.

Do everything you would do to cheat more performance out of a car.


Could anyone explain why adding more timing and going to premium fuel adds power? I don't see how it would.

The benefit of premium fuel is being able to use a higher compression ratio, which by thermodynamics means a more efficient process.
 
Could anyone explain why adding more timing and going to premium fuel adds power? I don't see how it would.

The benefit of premium fuel is being able to use a higher compression ratio, which by thermodynamics means a more efficient process.

I'm no technical wiz, but a lot of engines do respond well to more timing and makes them less doggy. The premium fuel is only needed if detonation occurs after bumping the timing. It often is not needed.
 
I'm no technical wiz, but a lot of engines do respond well to more timing and makes them less doggy. The premium fuel is only needed if detonation occurs after bumping the timing. It often is not needed.

That would be because the factory timing was very conservative for whatever reason, the most power is made with the timing advanced just enough for the engine to not knock for sure.
 
As stated before, the timing is computer controlled, turning the distributor to adjust timing, only adjusts cam sensor. Needs to be +/- 2 max. Anything else will kick a light on.

A cold air intake on these trucks just make it feel like more power IMHO. They use more gas, and run more chance of ruining your MAF. I would either buy the paper element, or a high flow dry-element filter.

From what I read in chevy HP once, you can take the screen off the MAF and it'll give you 1hp, all it does is straighten the air flow before it hits the sensor itself.
 
^^^^ is 100% correct out of all the Internet auto techs :D
You need to have the computere reflashed and tuned
Other than that you need to install a TT Dmax Like me. then you can pull a car on a trailer to the top of the onramp cresting 100 MPH and still get MPG :eek1:
 
You have a factory underpowered land yacht. That truck should never have had a SBC in them IMO.
 
Alright guys, after a lot of research I think I am going to install full exhaust, high flow air filter (done), clean the MAF sensor (done), I check the plug wires and they look new inside and out, I cleaned the cap and rotor cause they weren't bad and then I am going to get a performance tuned PCM from Black Bear Performance or Nelson Performance (I haven't decided). My buddy has EFI Live and I know that is what BBP uses but I don't see that my truck is supported on EFI Live's site. If it is I may just buy a licence and try to tune it myself. Kind of a scary thought but if I jack it up I think I can reinstall the stock settings and if not I can send off my PCM. I don't have to have the truck running so it wouldn't be to bad to have to wait for the retune. Thanks for the suggestions guys, keep them coming if you have anymore.:bow:
 

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