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How many have a transfer case brace?

Transfer case brace...

  • Yes, I have one.

    Votes: 182 59.9%

  • No, I don't have one.

    Votes: 122 40.1%
  • Total voters
    304
My '80 Blazer came with 305/205, but no brace. Through extensive field research I learned that getting the Blazer 3-4 foot off of the ground will eventually break the tranny tcase adapter. And of course, science is proven through repeatability so I did it again. Now that she is down for the count I am getting everything together to build it how I want it. A brace is one of the things I want. My off road style has changed over the years, but this is obviously a good fix to a weak point.
 
I have them on my crew cab and burb and will use them. dont hane them on my k5 but will get one or fab one, just incase.
 
AuH2O said:
Bumping this since I just edited my post above!
Click to expand...


mine looks just like that piece, do you possibly have it turned over wrong? if your sitting looking directly at the 2 brace bolts it goes all the way up to the bellhousing and the bar takes a right bend. it ends right around the top of the starter if i remember right. maybe you can just bend it a little to help it fit. ifyou have your case dropped it seems to be alot harder to get it to line up.
 
One thing I have not seen mentioned here is to double check the free travel in the slip yoke of the front drive shaft.

As the front axle cycles through compression ( such as landing a hard jump )
the axle travel forces the lenght of the drive shaft to "shorten" as the suspension compresses.

If there is not enough free space in the slip yoke,,it will stack solid and the driveshaft will transfer this energy against the front of the T-case resulting in a pivot effect at the adaptor plate or the bell housing...snap !!!
 
All of the tcase damage I've seen or heard about was due to front driveshaft issues. I should say "broken tcase" type damage. Whether it was the driveshaft bottoming out or the driveshaft braking and flopping around.
 
mine has it

72 blazer has side frame mount to hold it in place along with the tranny crossmember and double engine mount.i dont believe anything will ever move enough to cause a problem.
 
mrk5 said:
All of the tcase damage I've seen or heard about was due to front driveshaft issues. I should say "broken tcase" type damage. Whether it was the driveshaft bottoming out or the driveshaft braking and flopping around.
Click to expand...

Add to that a seized front slip joint. Now I have a 205 and I keep my front shaft greased :haha::haha::haha:
 
I am in the process of putting my 73 back together and I have a 203 with the brace that goes to the frame. Now I know the frames on these things are about as stiff as a wet noodle. That being the case what does everyone think about changing from the frame mount to a brace running from the side of the t-case (the original frame mount) up to the bell housing. I am hoping that would isolate the drive train from the frame and allow it to move as one unit.

Worth it? Thoughts?

stats of the drive train going back in:
2003 LQ9 6.0l
4l65-e trans
203 t-case
 
rufusbooth said:
I am in the process of putting my 73 back together and I have a 203 with the brace that goes to the frame. Now I know the frames on these things are about as stiff as a wet noodle. That being the case what does everyone think about changing from the frame mount to a brace running from the side of the t-case (the original frame mount) up to the bell housing. I am hoping that would isolate the drive train from the frame and allow it to move as one unit.

Worth it? Thoughts?

stats of the drive train going back in:
2003 LQ9 6.0l
4l65-e trans
203 t-case
Click to expand...
you should be fine reusing the original frame mount.it will stop any side to side motion that would crack the trans.when on and off the gas.at least that is my opinion.if its still in good shape.i would at the least replace the bushings with good poly to stiffen it up a lil.im sure one of the venders here would have them.i think i got mine from energy suspention.i looked it up:
clearpixel.gif

Part Number: 3.1107
GM Transfer Case Torque Mount Bushing
Details

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Black Red (Accept Special Order)
List Price: $24.66
Price: $17.99

:wink1:
 
obijuan said:
mine looks just like that piece, do you possibly have it turned over wrong? if your sitting looking directly at the 2 brace bolts it goes all the way up to the bellhousing and the bar takes a right bend. it ends right around the top of the starter if i remember right. maybe you can just bend it a little to help it fit. ifyou have your case dropped it seems to be alot harder to get it to line up.
Click to expand...

No, sorry, it's turned the only way that could be the "right" way, and it still doesn't line up at all. Which engine/trans/tcase combo do you have?

I did some investigating, and it turns out there were two part numbers for these "struts". One is the one I have (14020856), and the other is GM #14068719. GM's own records doesn't say which strut fits which combo, but naturally I'm assuming I'm supposed to have this other strut. Unfortunately, it has been discontinued. If anyone knows where I could get a hold of a #14068719, I would really appreciate it. Or, if you have a spare used one that you know will fit a 6.2L/TH700/NP208 combo, send me a PM and I'll buy it from you!
 
Call me lazy, but I tend to only fab stuff up if there isn't already a factory part I can get a hold of. Not saying your point is without merit though, but I might as well ask around for that strut before I go about making one.
 
Here's the one I have. Measures @32" from the engine bellhousing bolt to the front hole at the t-case!

Not the greatest pics, but it's what I got!

I PM'd you back, but I may have misunderstood your measurement. Shipping will be around $13-$14, if I understood the on-line estimate.

Let me know if this is what you need.

Also, you may want to check yours again. I bolted mine to the bell lhousing first, then the t-case, I think you can "tweak" it a little. I had to use the bolts at the t-case to help draw it in a little.

Anyhow, here you go!

997736345112_0_ALB.jpg

208736345112_0_ALB.jpg

408736345112_0_ALB.jpg
 
udy2554 said:
Here's the one I have. Measures @32" from the engine bellhousing bolt to the front hole at the t-case!

Not the greatest pics, but it's what I got!

I PM'd you back, but I may have misunderstood your measurement. Shipping will be around $13-$14, if I understood the on-line estimate.

Let me know if this is what you need.

Also, you may want to check yours again. I bolted mine to the bell lhousing first, then the t-case, I think you can "tweak" it a little. I had to use the bolts at the t-case to help draw it in a little.

Anyhow, here you go!
Click to expand...


Thanks for the pictures! Check your inbox again! :D
 
Bringing this back for a question.

I see a lot of talk about the case to bell brace, but not much on the mm to bell braces. My build has been a few years in progress and I'm finally putting the last touches on it. The case to bell brace is in, but in my lengthy build, I totally forgot about the motor mount to bell braces. I switched from a 700/241 to a 465/241. The holes are clearly in the bottom of the bell for them, but I really hate to lift the engine back off the motor mounts to install these 2 braces, if they are not totally necessay.

Now, I don't plan to be jumping this truck, but I do want to be able to do some trail/rock crawling with it.

Anyone have any problems without the motor mount to bell braces, or will it be something I need to do.
 
The holes at the bottom of the bell housing are for a dust shield not a brace.
 
The small holes in the face of the bell are for a dust shield. The holes on the bottom, slightly angled if I remember are for the two braces he's referring to. You don't have to lift the motor off the mounts to install those braces iirc.
 
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