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How much body lift should I go with?

How much body lift?


  • Total voters
    87

GsxrMike

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Hey guys! I have got my frame painted and i'm getting ready to reassemble everything and order parts. I don't know if I should put on a body lift or not, and if so how much? I have about 6 or 7 inches of suspension lift (bigger springs and shackle flip, no blocks, very flexy) and I am going to try to clear 38's. I've heard bad things about body lifts but I don't know what to make of it all. Thanks!
 
Well, you certainly don't need any more lift to fit those tires. If you really don't want to cut your fenders then go for it I guess. IMO, avoid a body lift if you can.

I had 37" MT/R's (very close in size to 38" Interco tires) on a 4" lift and didn't need to cut the fenders all that much.
 
I would go with one or none at all shouldn't need it with the lift and tire size you are planing on
 
Ok so far it looks like 1" is favorite. Why shouldn't I go bigger? If I do get 1" does it matter where I order it from? Any suggestions?
 
depends on if you want to cut up your fenders. Since you have a flexy suspention, I think you'd need all the more clearance you need.

I have a 2" body and a 4" all spring lift with 35"s and I rub like an sob and I still have my sway bar in.
 
The only reason to go with more than 1" (and it is a kinda weak one) is if you want to clock up your t-case without cutting the floor.
 
What are the reasons I should NOT use a body lift besides the extra work with the steering and linkage and stuff?
 
What are the reasons I should NOT use a body lift besides the extra work with the steering and linkage and stuff?

Chevy frames flex, alot. It puts alot of stress on the body mounts and the body itself. I have seen several trucks with 3" body lifts that cracked the body.

I would do a 1" just cause when I get around to a doubler I want to clock it up and that would be easier. Hmmm also it would be alot easier to hook up the sender wire on my gas tank if I had a body lift :D
 
Well I think I may let this poll run a little longer but I will probably go with a 1" body lift. Does it make a differance where I buy it from? Who has the most complete kit? And does any body have suggestions on new body mounts? Ive been looking at the engery suspension kit, not sure if it makes a differance. Thanks again guys for all the great replies!
 
big body lifts are scary. dont go over 1". go on offroaddesign.com and get it there, i think thats gona be the best place to get it
 
Nobody has answered your "why not" question so I will try. The longer bolts needed to secure the taller body mount "pucks" are subjected to high sheer stress. The longer the bolt the less stress it take for the bolt to fail. If you are in a collision and the body mount bolt sheer off, the body could become seperated from the frame. Also, frame flex is an issue. The body helps with regidity when mounted in the stock height. When a body lift is installed, regidity is lost in direct proportion to the height of the lift. I, like many on this board, run minimal suspension lift and cut sheet metal. Really, it all depends on what purpose you have for your rig. But above all, I would accept the advice you have solicited and don't just blow these guys off.
 
So frame ridgity it probably the #1 reason I would want to stay away from a body lift? Now I guess the real question is...is the 1" body lift worth the amount of frame flex I will gain? Thanks!
 
Are you against cutting sheet metal? If not, just cut instead of doing the body lift. I you are against cutting, go 1" and move on. Either way, post pics or it didn't happen:D
 
I'm not totally opposed to cutting some sheet metal. Only question I have is what do I do with the inner fender on the rear wheel wells? I don't want the body filling up with mud and water.
 
I have a 3" body lift on my 1974 K10, and a 6" suspension lift, to clear 38" TSL radials. The front flexes very well, and I still had to trim my front fenders a bit. The truck sort of evolved over the years, and originally wasn't purpose built for off road use only, although that is what it mainly sees now. I have no regrets on the body lift, but I don't think I would go that high again, maybe 2" at most, and mainly only on a street truck.

The biggest con (to me) of the body lift is that it does raise the center of gravity quite high. I have never rolled the truck (yet), but it has fell over on each side. I thought I saw a sticker that said 'chicks dig body damage', but I haven't scored one yet based on that!

As was said, the frames do flex a lot, but the factory body mounts had rubber discs in them, so I think they absorbed a lot of flex instead of transmitting them to the sheet metal. I do have some cracks and tears in odd places on my sheet metal, but I think that is due to not frequently checking tightness of body components (there all dented in, why bother now), other than cab and bed mounts.

Good Luck!
 
I'm not totally opposed to cutting some sheet metal. Only question I have is what do I do with the inner fender on the rear wheel wells? I don't want the body filling up with mud and water.

Here's what I did to mine:
burb%20fenders%20001.jpg

burb%20fenders%20006.jpg

burb%20fenders%20016.jpg

burb%20fenders%20001.jpg

burb%20fenders%20006.jpg

burb%20fenders%20016.jpg
 
i went with a 1 inch body lift from ORD so i could clear a doubler better in the future, thats what i vote for
 

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