How much body lift should I go with?

[thebird00]

I have a 3" body lift on my 1974 K10, and a 6" suspension lift, to clear 38" TSL radials. The front flexes very well, and I still had to trim my front fenders a bit. The truck sort of evolved over the years, and originally wasn't purpose built for off road use only, although that is what it mainly sees now. I have no regrets on the body lift, but I don't think I would go that high again, maybe 2" at most, and mainly only on a street truck.

The biggest con (to me) of the body lift is that it does raise the center of gravity quite high. I have never rolled the truck (yet), but it has fell over on each side. I thought I saw a sticker that said 'chicks dig body damage', but I haven't scored one yet based on that!

As was said, the frames do flex a lot, but the factory body mounts had rubber discs in them, so I think they absorbed a lot of flex instead of transmitting them to the sheet metal. I do have some cracks and tears in odd places on my sheet metal, but I think that is due to not frequently checking tightness of body components (there all dented in, why bother now), other than cab and bed mounts.

Good Luck!

Any lift is gonna raise the center of gravity. Seems like a body lift would raise less weight than a suspension lift which is raising the frame and drivetrain, too.

 

[FastMaxx]

Nobody has answered your "why not" question so I will try. The longer bolts needed to secure the taller body mount "pucks" are subjected to high sheer stress. The longer the bolt the less stress it take for the bolt to fail. If you are in a collision and the body mount bolt sheer off, the body could become seperated from the frame. Also, frame flex is an issue. The body helps with regidity when mounted in the stock height. When a body lift is installed, regidity is lost in direct proportion to the height of the lift. I, like many on this board, run minimal suspension lift and cut sheet metal. Really, it all depends on what purpose you have for your rig. But above all, I would accept the advice you have solicited and don't just blow these guys off.

I could be wrong but I dont think I have ever heard of a failure due to a body lift?

 

[AKbigsub]

I could be wrong but I dont think I have ever heard of a failure due to a body lift?

A couple years ago there was a crash on the highway up here where an FSJ body totally seperated from the frame and they attributed it to the body lift. I am searching for a picture and will post it as soon as I find it.

 

[gmc4cw]

I don't think I saw it posted but a 1" bodylift will also give you a little more room to work under the truck. makes it easier to get to bolts between the trans/t-case and the floor.

I hate the way a bodylift looks, but sometimes they are necessary. My 2000 has a 3" because it was $200 and fit 33's when a suspension lift would have been $1800.

my trail truck has a 2" that helped me clock the t-case all the way up and still fit exhaust without cutting anything. I will eventually cut a huge section out of the floor and rework it so that I can lose the pucks completely. its to high and climbing in it sucks.

 

[dbabicky]

I have to agree with the fact body lifts are not the way to go, but I also have seen applications where body lifts can help for clearence issues,ect. I would never go more than 1" if I went with any of them.

 

[GsxrMike]

Well so far I've established that I'm not going bigger than 1" on the body lift but I still don't know if I should go with a 1" or not at all. Where is the 1/2" body lift option...lol

 

[gerber boy]

maybe i'm not understanding this right but but i hear how a body lift raises your center of gravity, but a suspension lift also raises it. so who has the higher COG a truck with 6" suspension, or a truck with 4" suspension and 2" body lift.?
wouldn't the truck with all suspension have the higher COG because a good deal of the weight is 2" taller then the other truck?

also is there any pics of damage due to body lifts? i hear so much about it but never seem to to any pictures just talk.

 

[howdiy]

Stack the frames

 

[BGKYK5]

maybe i'm not understanding this right but but i hear how a body lift raises your center of gravity, but a suspension lift also raises it. so who has the higher COG a truck with 6" suspension, or a truck with 4" suspension and 2" body lift.?
wouldn't the truck with all suspension have the higher COG because a good deal of the weight is 2" taller then the other truck?

You are correct, the 6" suspension lift would have a higher COG than the 4" plus a 2" BL, but that does not make a big BL a good idea. A suspension lift also can increase performance by increasing flex, a BL does nothing to increase performance, it only makes the truck taller (actually decreasing performance). If you need to clear big tires, cutting the fenders is a better option than a big BL. Most people who run on rocks (where COG is most important, that and on the road) would probably tell you to keep the total lift to 4" and under. Most of your flexy suspension options provide about 4" of lift.

 

[UPS]

You are correct, the 6" suspension lift would have a higher COG than the 4" plus a 2" BL, but that does not make a big BL a good idea. A suspension lift also can increase performance by increasing flex, a BL does nothing to increase performance, it only makes the truck taller (actually decreasing performance). If you need to clear big tires, cutting the fenders is a better option than a big BL. Most people who run on rocks (where COG is most important, that and on the road) would probably tell you to keep the total lift to 4" and under. Most of your flexy suspension options provide about 4" of lift.

It all depends on what you use the truck for, if you use it for mud the taller the truck the better it goes. The least amount of drag through the mud the better. Unless you can stay on top of it, which doesn't happen much in a full bodied truck unless it has 800Hp and wide Boggers.

Mike

 

[BIGNICK91]

No body lift unless your doing a doubler. You have plenty of suspension lift to clear 38's.
I have 3in of susp. lift and clear 37in MTR's with very little rubbing at full stuff, my fenders are trimmed a lot like the ones already posted.

 

[AKbigsub]

Stack the frames

 

[ciffer]

call me ignorant, but what is a doubler?

 

[GsxrMike]

no hijacking! But while i'm at it....it is a kit used to combine 2 transfer cases to give you multi low range...for example np203 range box added to a np205 gives you 2:1 or 4:1 and with a triple stick shifter you can do all kinda cool stuff like front wheel drive etc.

 

[ryoken]

I run the 1" ORD, don't regret it a bit... 3" no way...

If you need to do the bushings and your in there anyway, it's foolish imo NOT to put it in...

The various subtle clearance gains from the 1" are worth the effort...

 

[badmix]

Id say either 1" or NO body lift. I would get some good POLY body mount/bushings, and ORDs greaseable suspension bushings and bolts. You have the luxury of a bare / stripped frame, do all your planning and work on it NOW. Like the ORD front shackle plate thingy that goes on the inside of the frame, etc etc. Things like that are nice to take care of without the body in the way. So, really take your time (like your doing) and plan your end goal for the truck, IMO, your in a unique position to do that. I have to keep my truck on the road, so I can only take it down for minimal time.

 

[cheyennek20]

Id say either 1" or NO body lift. I would get some good POLY body mount/bushings, and ORDs greaseable suspension bushings and bolts. You have the luxury of a bare / stripped frame, do all your planning and work on it NOW. Like the ORD front shackle plate thingy that goes on the inside of the frame, etc etc. Things like that are nice to take care of without the body in the way. So, really take your time (like your doing) and plan your end goal for the truck, IMO, your in a unique position to do that. I have to keep my truck on the road, so I can only take it down for minimal time.

X2 If you have this all apart...Now is the time to do it. ESPECIALLY with nothing in the way like the body, fuel lines or the bed.

 

[blazerbones]

I run the 1" ORD, don't regret it a bit... 3" no way...

If you need to do the bushings and your in there anyway, it's foolish imo NOT to put it in...

The various subtle clearance gains from the 1" are worth the effort...

Absolutely. I love the space it opens up... in various locations. ORD's kit is VERY nice.

Plus, a 4" lift suspension should be flexier than the corresponding 6" lift (from the same manufacturer say) ... so if you're looking for a bit more, you can do the 1" body lift rather than get a stiffer spring AND raise the COG a substantial amount..

My buddy had 3"bl on a suburban I rode in alot... I didn't like it for the reasons already stated.

 

[chulisohombre]

1 inch def the way to go.you can get away with a 2 inch,but i wouldnt go any further than that.the energy kit is very nice also.i have it on mine in the 1 inch form.it rides a hell of a lot better than it did with the stock rubber.plus half of mine were falling out from 30 yrs of wheeling it.lol.i didnt have to do any steering mods other than the dropped pitman arm i already had on for the 4 inch lift..so that was also a plus.

 

[oneofthefewbmx]

i ALMOST had to get a 1" BL when i put the cummins in to clear everything, but i decided to just cut a HUGE chunk out of the floor and make a new one....the main/most important reason to not use a BL is that they are gayer than AIDS....if you MUST MUST use one i would go with NO MORE than 1"...and you better have a damn good reason...BL totally ruin a truck...there is nothing worse than seeing a decent looking truck THROUGH THE GAP BETWEEN THE FRAME AND BODY of your ALOMST decent looking truck ....anyway....get the 1" if you REALLY NEED it or nothing at all if you dont!