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How much front driveshaft slip?

so, reviving this thread as I just got my driveshaft built. I went with a 1350 yoke and 1350 CV and a slip of only 4 inches. I was very skeptical of this little amount of slip, but after speaking at length with the driveshaft shop that was building it I was confident that they were doing me right.

The guy who built mine, (William at Powertrain, formerly coast driveline in Ventura) drives a square and has built tons of shafts for them. With leafs he was pretty confident that I would never need more than the 4 inches of slip.

I went with a 2 inch .188 wall. At this size, I could rest the truck on the shaft no issues. I also fit it with no massaging or grinding. Just bolted right up.

I wheeled it pretty good this past weekend and everything worked great.

Will try and get some pictures up later.

I just thought this would be helpful knowledge as I know there is a lot of conjecture about this.
 
It all depends. Horton uses 8" of slip. I've measured it several times.

The Jimmy has a stock slip in it.

The Jimmy max flexin yah baby



Horton has a bit more



This is the reason I say to measure.
 
Yeah, I didn't realize it until going through this, but front leaves are the worst because of the way the diff swings down and away when it droops (assuming rear shackle). Other suspensions may flex more, but they will normally swing in an arc more favorable. If you poke around on Tom Woods site, for example, he mentions super flexy leaves as the tough case. So I'd take exception with "with leafs he was pretty confident that I would never need more than the 4 inches of slip.", unless you change it to "normal leafs" or something like that. Having said that, if it's all working well for you that's all that matters.
 
so, reviving this thread as I just got my driveshaft built. I went with a 1350 yoke and 1350 CV and a slip of only 4 inches. I was very skeptical of this little amount of slip, but after speaking at length with the driveshaft shop that was building it I was confident that they were doing me right.

The guy who built mine, (William at Powertrain, formerly coast driveline in Ventura) drives a square and has built tons of shafts for them. With leafs he was pretty confident that I would never need more than the 4 inches of slip.

I went with a 2 inch .188 wall. At this size, I could rest the truck on the shaft no issues. I also fit it with no massaging or grinding. Just bolted right up.

I wheeled it pretty good this past weekend and everything worked great.

Will try and get some pictures up later.

I just thought this would be helpful knowledge as I know there is a lot of conjecture about this.

I thought you said a 1350 didn't provide enough operating angle?

The comment about not needing more than 4" of slip with leafs is crazy talk if he's making a general statement. Maybe he's talking about link setup.

I really do hope it works for you but I'm skeptical.
 
So everyone I had been talkin to had not seen the truck but we're going off my measurements. I had this guy look at the truck and crawl under and take his own measurements. He told me that I had nothing severe and the 1350 was more than adequate.

I guess I assumed that I had crazy angles and wasn't gonna be able to go with a standard, still gonna test it on an rti ramp soon.

He told me if I had any problems just come back. That is the benefit for going local
 
I guess I was exaggerating my angles. The driveline shop took one look at it and shrugged and built me a 1350.

Angles all look good.


01b004727e46d14a7a14440c23d5e3e9.jpg


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e6980cbbedc6d4f68b556cea5aa63024.jpg
 
Local and Driveshaft, is not something that happens around here.

The only shop around charges more than what I could get one from the big guys for....
 
Looks pretty. It all depends how far that stuff will droop down though.

I only see part of it, but I like the looks of that t-case skid. Did you fab that?
 
the angle doesn't look too bad....what degree is it @ ride height?

how much spline is stuffed at ride height?

Edit- truck-oholic beat me to it
 
If its like what i am thinking and you have 4" of spline and it starts just past where it is showing then that means your shaft will completely separate at 4" of shaft extension travel. You always want 2" engaged so you effectively have 2" of useable shaft extension travel. Problem with run of the mill driveshaft shops is they 1 underestimate flex of 52s and 2 use slightly different terminology. A 6" slip only nets you around 4" of TOTAL useable shaft travel depending on how much room for compression you leave. For example 3" extension 1" compression. I also don't believe that anyone can build you a good working driveline without cycling the suspension and pulling measurements especially using off the shelf parts where the acceptable margin of error is so small
 
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Trust me I was skeptical. The guy who built the shaft is a square body owner too and knew all about the 52" springs and flex we can get out of them. He knew waaaay more about this than I did. I questioned him a bunch of time and he got all technical about how with leaf's the up travel at the pumpkin isn't as severe as people tend to think it is. Talked angles, and numbers and made me dizzy.

The slip where it is set in the picture has about 4 inches of "slip" The truth is though, the splines extend another 6 inches. If I separate it, I will just go back and tell him.

The skid is the stock skid ha ha
 
The skid is the stock skid ha ha

Hmm. It's been a while, but I thought mine was a flat bit just on the bottom, certainly not attached with grade-8 bolts. It seemed lame enough to me at the time I replaced it with something different.
 
@4wheelinfury when you flex it out on the rti ramp go driver front up forwards and then passenger rear up backwards and let us know your findings. Be sure to take measurements too
 
Yep common mistake.

To get the front as flexed as far as you can you go up the ramp in reverse.
 
Subd, all of this will pertain to me all too soon.

@6872xtc
 
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