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How much front driveshaft slip?

Mastiff said:
I was wondering the same thing. Full droop has the weight of the axle pulling down, where articulation may motivate one side to go further down. Not sure... having said that, doing full droop with only the main leaves probably covers it, vs. just hanging the axle from the full spring packs.
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Yeah that's about as close as one can get. As skunked mentioned in an earlier post there are things that happen on the trail that are different than what can be replicated whether you're using a lift or jacks.

That said if your shaft is built to exceed the needed slip/drive angles it'll be fine.
 
GWeakland620 said:
The point that was best said,

The range of motion from the diff is less. Even if it is motivated to move further than articulation, you are still only going as far a full droop....maybe.
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In the rear end with a more or less centered pumpkin, yes that is true. With an offset pumpkin it's possible to get the diff lower than full droop by way of force. You're essentially forcing the leaf spring down which no doubt would happen some with full droop but I believe that it's possible to get it lower by articulation. It may not be much.

If we look at the picture I previously posted back a page or 2 you can see that buggy throws the passenger tire down farther than I'd imagine the droop goes.
 
But even with the diff offset, it is still inside the spring. I just don't see it going lower than full droop.
 
I think you guys are missing the (possibly invalid) point. Take a CUCV with 1-ton springs and jack up the front end from the frame. There is almost no droop. Now have two fat guys stand on one of the tires - it droops down more. The thought is that articulating the suspension may also have this "pushing down" effect on one side. If that's the diff side, you might get more effective droop at the driveshaft.
 
I have a picture for you... Hehe

Hold up, this is gonna take digging.


Mastiff said:
I think you guys are missing the (possibly invalid) point. Take a CUCV with 1-ton springs and jack up the front end from the frame. There is almost no droop. Now have two fat guys stand on one of the tires - it droops down more. The thought is that articulating the suspension may also have this "pushing down" effect on one side. If that's the diff side, you might get more effective droop at the driveshaft.
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This was an sbc short block bolted to an engine stand, with craigs heavily trussed d44, 1/4 plate for all the truss, a Dana 60 front axle, and all kinds of other heavy $hit piled on top.

With only the main leaf mounted to the axle.

It went down maybe a half inch from regular... The picture makes it look like more than that, but its just the angle. We measured everything, and the weight is all off the ground.





 
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Mastiff said:
I think you guys are missing the (possibly invalid) point. Take a CUCV with 1-ton springs and jack up the front end from the frame. There is almost no droop. Now have two fat guys stand on one of the tires - it droops down more. The thought is that articulating the suspension may also have this "pushing down" effect on one side. If that's the diff side, you might get more effective droop at the driveshaft.
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I think I covered my thoughts on this in my post above.

But we are not talking about a cucv with 1 ton springs, I thought we were discussing flexy ORD springs....
 
Haha. I believe you found maximum droop, including articulation effects. For guys who do full droop just by hanging the axle on full packs, I'm not certain yet one way or the other.
 
Mastiff said:
Haha. I believe you found maximum droop, including articulation effects. For guys who do full droop just by hanging the axle on full packs, I'm not certain yet one way or the other.
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I forgot to mention there is a dana 60 on there too... lol.
 
Ok so now that weve gone off the deep end...

Ill unbolt my u bolts and flex...



You gonna tell me that passenger tire would level out if drooped with out junk hanging from it?
 
GWeakland620 said:
You think ORD has it figured out on how to check for proper droop?
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What is proper droop? Are we trying to measure for a driveshaft or operate within the safe limits? I think you got your terminology figured out?

Dick response for dick response.

Perhaps they have it figured out. It's sort of here nor there. It's not like it's a requirement to run your driveshaft to the ragged edge causing you to take extremely accurate measurements. I'm a big fan of ord....not cutting them down at all.

If the above is true and the axle needs a .001" more slip then droop, I win.

I think there's a lot of variables here.

Out.
 
Who cares though? Build your shaft as stated with an extra inch on either end...

Arguing for arguments sake is stupid.
 
Wow man, I was not trying to be a dick at all. I was just saying Stephen himself said what would be the best way to check, then you put a picture up of an ORD rig. I was just going back to reference what he said about how they check for droop. No need at all for name calling.

I thing you have a lot of knowledge, more than I do. I am never here to offend anyone.
 
GWeakland620 said:
Wow man, I was not trying to be a dick at all. I was just saying Stephen himself said what would be the best way to check, then you put a picture up of an ORD rig. I was just going back to reference what he said about how they check for droop. No need at all for name calling.

I thing you have a lot of knowledge, more than I do. I am never here to offend anyone.
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Sorry dude I took it the wrong way. I didnt mean to be a turd.

I think we're all learning here in some way or another, whether that's from having long drawn out discussions or experienced users posting. Ill accept if I'm wrong. I'm very curious of this. Even if it's by just a little. I think when I have the square shaft ready I'll droop, make a mark then run it over the rubicon and see what it tells me. Whatever it is its not going to be by much.


The only time if seen a drive line pull apart is when flexed. Again lots of variable but we're never going to get full droop in the front rock crawling. Sure the front unloads a bit when going up hill but theres still weight involved on it.

The first time I went through the rubicon, K85 Octane came off a pretty steep 4 foot or so ledge. The whole rear end drooped massively...luckily he had a lot of slip and it was fine but I expected a bang. I just don't see it happening wit the front but that's just for rocks. I see the desert guys aim for 8 inches of slip...they also have a big range of motion and times where the axles are more or less unloaded.
 
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Deuling said:
How much slip was in it yet when you tested it?
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Not enough :rotfl:

around 1.25-1.5" of spline IIRC.

Also, at the time I was on a fresh set of front springs and a really short trans/t-case combo (th350/np205) which didn't help any.
 
Lemme add some stuff.

You cannot measure full static droop with a full leaf pack.

You pull the leaf pack apart mock up the correct heights and use a single leaf.

If your talking about a full leaf pack articulation vs full leaf pack static rebound, well yes articulation will be greater. But you don't measure full compression and full rebound with a full leaf pack.

Now speaking of wheeling. Leaf springs suck. Well stock springs suck. Custom springs are better. With say 52s they bend really often. Tires turned backing down hill hit something will force the spring to do things it never should like bend. Once it bends it often rotates the pinion.

So basically. Link your truck. Then you don't have to deal with occasional unpredictable and erratic movement causing us leaf spring guys to need 12" travel driveshafts
 
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