CK5
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How much front driveshaft slip?
- Thread starter Mastiff
- Start date
I saw that.....Not sure how I did it to make it come out that way.
As long as its dirt or sand im game 
As long as its dirt or sand im game
There will be wet dirt.......In between the rocks...So game on!!!!
That's awesome..I use about 1/2" of slip in the rear.
Axle moves back on bump, and forward on droop, so it almost keeps the slip in one spot.
I was really excited about that when I cycled the springs.
That's pretty lucky, I need to sacrifice a lamb or something so I can get that a lucky..
Must be shackle flip related?
General Spring is a great company to deal with also. Great product. I was just there 2 months ago buying new springs.
Nope just long long springs with mounts lower that stock, the pivots are in a place with the intention it would reduce plunging.
Where is General Spring located?
They are in Kansas City.
What are you pulling for travel? It doesn't look like that much more than mine.
I bumped mine at I think 11.5, but I could get more if I went slightly negative with the springs. Im just not sure how long they will last. They surprised me for how good they did the last 2 years. And for $79 a pop.....
I have 2 inch spacers between my bumps and the cans. So I have the ability to pull 2 more inches by pulling those, or maybe ill try an inch spacer.
Are you still planning on re-valving your shox??
16 inches, remember I am spring under in the back I also have removed the stock bumpstops so it uptravels 4 inches farther up. I did all this with low ride height and plunge in mind. So we'll seee!!
Here's the rear end bumped out.
I'm guessing it'll be ok because I've never looked at these pics back to back, it doesnt appear to have a lot of wheelbase change.
This pic can show kind of what where talking about here, a long spring tends to act like a longer link arm, because half of the spring is attached to the axle and the pivot it will want to travel that direction, figure that arc depending on its relationship to the driveline will effect its travel. When you get a spring that has a lot of arch this can change the travel some because the spring grows and shrinks with compression and droop, this is why the really long travel leafs have tons of plunge. You have a long spring and that additional length isn't always good at the front half on our trucks anyway because now it swings in a arch that's 13-14 inches vs 11-12 so the axle moves back into the fender and down and away which just happens to be right in line with the driveshaft..
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Ok, that is substantially more than what I was thinking you had.
That makes sense.
That makes sense.
The output location being so low on the front in relation to the pivot is the main reason this is such a problem, if you could match the output that might help a little bit you are still traveling away from the output, this is the main reason a link system is better, this is why I preach this.. it's not to make anyone feel bad or like they're wasting money but it's definitely hard to make a driveline survive while pulling away and twisting downward.. this is a much bigger issue when you add any sort of power like we have here and it being a Ls swapped truck with big new tires which have tons of traction and soft springs that wrap a lot and you have the perfect storm which no amount of slip will fix because the driveline is binding from twist..
one possible band aid for the torque twist may be to make a short front side traction bar, lined up with your spring pivot and the axle.. you stop some of the wrap but still have the plunge problem. But that would help some of this breakage.
one possible band aid for the torque twist may be to make a short front side traction bar, lined up with your spring pivot and the axle.. you stop some of the wrap but still have the plunge problem. But that would help some of this breakage.
I have just a touch more rear travel than Adam in the back and use about an inch of slip.
