Fwiw, I checked real quick earlier and my front shaft has an 18 degree angle (single 1410 joint at each end). I was in a hurry so I couldn't check the yokes themselves but the tcase is rotated up 2" and no shims on the 60. Works fine, no binding.
CK5
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How much front driveshaft slip?
- Thread starter Mastiff
- Start date
Oh it should also be said that you need to be careful when you buy the high degree CV's, not all of them can stand extended highway speeds.
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I am glad this thread came up when it did. I knew my front shaft was gonna be expensive but I was in shock at $1000.
Not trying to hijack, so if OP wants me to take it to another thread let me know.
- I haven't skimped in any part of my build and not gonna start with the DS. If I need a $1000 driveshaft to have dependability, durability, and drivability I will spend the $$
- Having about 6-7 inches of lift and a 3 degree angled Dana 60 mean I have a wicked driveshaft angle. The TC floats up 8 degrees compounding what is already the problem.
- The 1410 CV is where the money is. I don't know if I can get away with a 1350 down at the Driveshaft? That could save me the $150 in yoke, but then again, I could probably sell the yoke for $100
- Slip. I need good slip. 52's up front for now, hopefully to be ORD or Alcan's within the year mean that flex is in my future. I could limit with straps (like I have now) but that seems like a waste of money if I am spending money on springs.
So, I need good flex, slip and drivability. I have been through the whole Superduty Shaft, cheap shaft route and honestly feel I will blow it up in short order or be concerned every time I shift into 4 Lo. I built this truck to take a beating. I don't plan on babying it.
where does that leave me?
Interestingly enough Tom Woods referred me to Arizona Driveline. He said their quality control was questionable but that they made a high angle CV that might work. FWIW he had nothing but good things to say about Jess at HAD.
Not trying to hijack, so if OP wants me to take it to another thread let me know.
- I haven't skimped in any part of my build and not gonna start with the DS. If I need a $1000 driveshaft to have dependability, durability, and drivability I will spend the $$
- Having about 6-7 inches of lift and a 3 degree angled Dana 60 mean I have a wicked driveshaft angle. The TC floats up 8 degrees compounding what is already the problem.
- The 1410 CV is where the money is. I don't know if I can get away with a 1350 down at the Driveshaft? That could save me the $150 in yoke, but then again, I could probably sell the yoke for $100
- Slip. I need good slip. 52's up front for now, hopefully to be ORD or Alcan's within the year mean that flex is in my future. I could limit with straps (like I have now) but that seems like a waste of money if I am spending money on springs.
So, I need good flex, slip and drivability. I have been through the whole Superduty Shaft, cheap shaft route and honestly feel I will blow it up in short order or be concerned every time I shift into 4 Lo. I built this truck to take a beating. I don't plan on babying it.
where does that leave me?
Interestingly enough Tom Woods referred me to Arizona Driveline. He said their quality control was questionable but that they made a high angle CV that might work. FWIW he had nothing but good things to say about Jess at HAD.
Go HAD run do not walk away from Arizona driveline.
I have used them 3 times. 2 got resolved one got taken to a local shop to get fixed.
I have used them 3 times. 2 got resolved one got taken to a local shop to get fixed.
dammit
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
Ive heard the same about arizona. Same with driveshaft superstore.
Woods and HAD are really the "best" in the country. Often the best get into pissing matches. When I called woods he wasnt helpful at all. They wanted to get my debit card more than answer a few simple questions. Id run either of their shafts if the opportunity came up. Ive also heard that Jess' s dad can put together just as good of a shaft, cheaper. Pretty sure he has his own place but im sure for something that specialized theres really only woods and HAD though. You can see the market is cornered through that price but sometimes you just have to jump.
May as well go 1410.
Woods and HAD are really the "best" in the country. Often the best get into pissing matches. When I called woods he wasnt helpful at all. They wanted to get my debit card more than answer a few simple questions. Id run either of their shafts if the opportunity came up. Ive also heard that Jess' s dad can put together just as good of a shaft, cheaper. Pretty sure he has his own place but im sure for something that specialized theres really only woods and HAD though. You can see the market is cornered through that price but sometimes you just have to jump.
May as well go 1410.
I will say I know a couple of guys who have had no problems with Arizona driveline. But its seem there are as many dissatisfied as satisfied.
You can try. I think last time I said it 3 or 4 guys piped up saying they had no problems.
If you go with em document everything
Woods has a new double CV front shaft they are building for the Jeeps may want to check that out.
He built mine, all three times I had it done very happy.
Mine is a 1330 front U joint which I am glad of cuz I have none of the issues you guys seem to be worried about, not that any of them are related to the size of the U-joint.
He built mine, all three times I had it done very happy.
Mine is a 1330 front U joint which I am glad of cuz I have none of the issues you guys seem to be worried about, not that any of them are related to the size of the U-joint.
I use most of an 8" slip yoke with my front ORD springs.....
Its a fancy slip yoke
Sorry I was late to the party, i could have ended this thread much quicker...
Its a fancy slip yoke
Sorry I was late to the party, i could have ended this thread much quicker...
Cool, I was leaning toward 8" too, if I;m paying a premium anyway. Might as well have a little extra on each end.
What's a 1330 joint? All I've heard people talk about is 1310, 1350 and 1410, and R(whatever) factory CV.
What's a 1330 joint? All I've heard people talk about is 1310, 1350 and 1410, and R(whatever) factory CV.
I think I use about 6" of total slip, but definitely wanted some still engaged when the springs are drooped out. I didn't want just a half inch of slip left in while drooped, especially if im hitting whoops at speed. Seems like it would bind easier.
My front shaft works great with the stock cv and stock front u joint. I did end up rebuilding the CV.
My front shaft works great with the stock cv and stock front u joint. I did end up rebuilding the CV.
1330 has the same width (3 5/8") as the 1350 but the caps are the smaller 1310 diameter.
Numbers here for slip all jive with what we find. Maxing out a regular slip can just barely get it done if everything works right and it's really nice to get to an extended slip (8") or so just to be sure. We have found some slip parts that I think are maybe from some carrier bearing applications that work for a "mid travel" slip system. No idea on applications, just pieces of stuff we've had laying around and put together.
For angle, remember there's always the straight ujoint method but I can't recommend that for anything other than a slow trail ride truck since most of them seem to vibrate enough to be a pain even on the trail. But you can get a lot of angle from some relatively cheap parts with 1410's and maybe even Tom Woods' offset ujoint.
4wheelinfury, your drivetrain down angle should be 4-5 degrees, you could probably look at raising the T-case up to sacrifice some rear shaft angle and help out the front shaft. Typically a modified 1350cv in the rear will take care of all your problems so pushing the case up may help quite a bit. And like someone else said, check castor angle, you may be able to shim the pinion up a little and still have it drive nice and cut some driveshaft cost.
I do have to say this too, for most trail rigs reliability is #1 on the build priority list so good driveshafts make sense. To the point that if you can't afford the super special part, limit the suspension or ground clearance to make it reliable. You'll go way farther with a drivetrain you can trust than with a suspension that breaks the drivetrain. If you're playing fast where suspension is more important, you'll have to figure out how to make it reliable and stretchy. This is another hidden cost of leaf springs, with a link system the driveshaft doesn't plunge much at all so you may need some high angularity from the joints but the slip is always plain stuff. Not that links are the answer all the time but they make driveshafts easy.
For angle, remember there's always the straight ujoint method but I can't recommend that for anything other than a slow trail ride truck since most of them seem to vibrate enough to be a pain even on the trail. But you can get a lot of angle from some relatively cheap parts with 1410's and maybe even Tom Woods' offset ujoint.
4wheelinfury, your drivetrain down angle should be 4-5 degrees, you could probably look at raising the T-case up to sacrifice some rear shaft angle and help out the front shaft. Typically a modified 1350cv in the rear will take care of all your problems so pushing the case up may help quite a bit. And like someone else said, check castor angle, you may be able to shim the pinion up a little and still have it drive nice and cut some driveshaft cost.
I do have to say this too, for most trail rigs reliability is #1 on the build priority list so good driveshafts make sense. To the point that if you can't afford the super special part, limit the suspension or ground clearance to make it reliable. You'll go way farther with a drivetrain you can trust than with a suspension that breaks the drivetrain. If you're playing fast where suspension is more important, you'll have to figure out how to make it reliable and stretchy. This is another hidden cost of leaf springs, with a link system the driveshaft doesn't plunge much at all so you may need some high angularity from the joints but the slip is always plain stuff. Not that links are the answer all the time but they make driveshafts easy.
Links are the answer
All the time
All the time
Came factory on F350 Dana 60HP front ends which is what I have.
Not sure what you mean about raising T-case up?
Tilting the trans/tcase up improving the t-case angle. Sounds like it's too low.
Just not sure how I would go about doing that without it affecting the motor positioning and everything. Maybe I am just being retarded
For those of us who spend most of our time on road, is it really a good compromise to make the rear angles worse? For almost everyone, the front is going to see much less use and, I believe, less stress even when it is in use. I guess I'm saying I'd be hesitant to mess with that angle unless I really knew what I was doing. If you have a T-case drop already, that's another story...
