What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

How much front driveshaft slip?

4wheelinfury said:
Just not sure how I would go about doing that without it affecting the motor positioning and everything. Maybe I am just being retarded
Click to expand...

looks like your blazer has a 208/241, judging by your avatar. If you are using that big block of a trans mount consider this.... the bottom of my mount, where the bolts go in, is 1/4" above the bottom of the frame. If I remember right, the stock position is below the frame. You could probably move your T-case up 3" without the motor mounts or fan shroud caring. IMO :)
 
Mastiff said:
For those of us who spend most of our time on road, is it really a good compromise...
Click to expand...

The angles on the CV are such a "non-issue" that raising it up a tad is no big deal. You might, however, need to re-shim your rear pinion angle.
 
Sounds familiar. I went through the same scenarios when I was looking into getting shafts for my k5 (203/205 clocked up) kind of wish I wouldnt of clocked it now but long story short I lowered the motor mounts to get the drive train almost level so I could go with the 1350cv and a longslip to keep the 56"s up front happy under droop. I went with the Woods shaft hoping it will last.
 
This brings up another point: I like to say that I quit praying to the gods of belly clearance a while ago. The middle of the truck just doesn't drag that much if it's a couple inches below the frame and you'll fight poor driveline angles EVERY TIME you use 4wd. If the T-case (s) need to hang down a little just make sure they're armored and let it be. They won't hang you up that often but you'll be happy to use a more standard driveshaft all the time.
 
For reference my trans and tcase was mounted about an inch lower than the frame. I want to say my tcase was angled at 5 degrees.
 
Stephen said:
This brings up another point: I like to say that I quit praying to the gods of belly clearance a while ago. The middle of the truck just doesn't drag that much if it's a couple inches below the frame and you'll fight poor driveline angles EVERY TIME you use 4wd. If the T-case (s) need to hang down a little just make sure they're armored and let it be. They won't hang you up that often but you'll be happy to use a more standard driveshaft all the time.
Click to expand...

I agree 100%.
 
View media item 25635View media item 25634
FOR MUD said:
I agree 100%.
Click to expand...



I also agree with this statement. As with anything else in Truck Building, one can definitely get too far into the weeds in the quest for "perfection". Sometimes its just better to keep things simple. Granted, we all modify trucks. But some aspects are best kept to the original recipe.

What I really want to say here is.... Make sure sure SURE that your driveshafts have adequate slip. I personally believe that this is more important that having "perfect/ideal angles" etc. This past summer, I was somewhere near the beginning of Golden Spike trail in Moab. I had just finished Poison Spider and was feeling very confident with my rig's capabilities. I descended a very small ledge without paying enough attention to my speed and control. It was enough for my front 52" springs to compress enough to also completely max out the slip on my front driveshaft; turning it into a battering ram to the front case half of my NP241. I immediately heard over the CB radio, "Ad! You're leaking!" as ATF started pouring out of a huge crack in the t-case. It was a long night of little sleep and many many challenges finshing Golden Spike overnight, and then Gold Bar Rim in 2WD the next day. Yes the t-case is aluminum. But I think enough hits like that on ANY t-case would cause carnage to parts. Just give the t-case good skid protection and pick good lines. I say forget about making a flat belly.

Make sure you have enough slip! :deal: Its FAR easier to change a u-joint than to JB Weld a t-case leak and limp off a series of trails over 2 days. I would have welcomed a broken u-joint with open arms.
 
Last edited:
4wheelinfury said:
I am in the same boat as you. Talked to both Tom Woods and Jesse yesterday. I am running into a couple issues. First my angles aren't good. I have about a 21 degree driveshaft before flex and with 52's up front I have already dealt with separating the old driveshaft.

Unfortunately I am looking at a 42 degree 1410 10 inch slip from HAD. Over $1k, but I can't seem to find an alternative that isn't compromising somewhere.
Click to expand...

If your intersted there is a shop in Denver who builds as good or better than Tom woods stuff.
Bills engelwood driveshaft

I got a 1410 New spicer endes, HD Spicer U joints, Chromoly tube, 10 inch slip for about $500
 
Another thing that can help is a doubler. It moves the joint back and creates better front driveline angle.
 
Beware of people offering long travel drive shafts for cheap. I have 11" of front wheel travel with my leaf springs. It generates 4 1/2" of plunge at the driveshaft. Not to state the obvious, but the best way to figure out exactly what you need, is to reduce the spring pack to one main spring and a spacer to make up for the rest of the spring pack, then cycle the suspension. I worked with Jesse at High Angle to get a good, working front driveshaft that would last a 1,000 miles of Baja in AWD. It has somewhere between 10-12" of spline travel. There are all sorts of farm implement, long travel drives shafts, but they don't like high speed.
 
Mastiff said:
I almost posted the same thing. I wonder why Chevy went the way they did. Lots of other vehicles have front shackles.
Click to expand...

Most vehicles with shackles at the front have kits to move the shackle to the back.

The benefit to using a shackle at the front of the front spring is that the driveshaft is happier.

The downfalls are that the approach angle is terrible and the spring is super fragile, any force on the front axle is happy to fold your leaf spring in half. Spring failure is super common with the shackle at the front, and it's the main reason people convert that system to the shackle at the back.

Leaf springs are a compromise in many ways, but the shackle at the back is definitely better for front springs.
 
1977k5 said:
Most vehicles with shackles at the front have kits to move the shackle to the back.

The benefit to using a shackle at the front of the front spring is that the driveshaft is happier.

The downfalls are that the approach angle is terrible and the spring is super fragile, any force on the front axle is happy to fold your leaf spring in half. Spring failure is super common with the shackle at the front, and it's the main reason people convert that system to the shackle at the back.

Leaf springs are a compromise in many ways, but the shackle at the back is definitely better for front springs.
Click to expand...


Not to mention that when you droop coming over an obstacle the axle starts pulling the front wheels back off of what you're trying to climb.
 
63chevyll said:
If your intersted there is a shop in Denver who builds as good or better than Tom woods stuff.
Bills engelwood driveshaft

I got a 1410 New spicer endes, HD Spicer U joints, Chromoly tube, 10 inch slip for about $500
Click to expand...

I called and spoke to Bill. Straight shooter but still quoted $925 for a 1410 CV with 1350 axle side joint and 2.5 .120 DOM tube. I just don't think there is much wiggle room
 
4wheelinfury said:
I called and spoke to Bill. Straight shooter but still quoted $925 for a 1410 CV with 1350 axle side joint and 2.5 .120 DOM tube. I just don't think there is much wiggle room
Click to expand...

I got the impression he was referring to a non-cv driveshaft@ that price.

And I would agree, not much wiggle room after buying the materials.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom