black dawg
1/2 ton status
a 3r is similar to a 1330... in my experience slighty tougher. Like already said though I wouldnt waste time and money into a shaft with 1/2 ton stock sized joints on a not stock sized truck.
CK5
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How much front driveshaft slip?
- Thread starter Mastiff
- Start date
Lots of extra time and expense is all. CUCV has 3R/1310 and it's 1+ ton rated.
Don't get me wrong, extra beef is cool, but I've got to get done with this project some day. 1350 can't do the angles of 1310 either, so there's that problem to deal with.
That is exactly why I am at the 1410 cv. Neapco makes one for $250. The BAMF comes in at $500. Center pin is a lot larger and angle is 42 compared to 37 but I don't think I need 42. And saving money is a plus.
Good thread!
I am running the stock CV with the AG 10 spline long slip setup with my 52s up front. I continuously broke my joint and yoke at the pinion due to angles.
I sent my shaft to Jesse and had a 1410 yoke put on the pinion end and he did some clearance work on the CV and I haven't had an issue since. I also added 4* shims at the front axle and this setup seems to work very well. I have 10-11 inches of droop when flexed and use 5-6 inches of the slip. The only thing I would change is the AG 10 spline slip is kind of sloppy, but my rig doesn't see any high speed stuff.
I am running the stock CV with the AG 10 spline long slip setup with my 52s up front. I continuously broke my joint and yoke at the pinion due to angles.
I sent my shaft to Jesse and had a 1410 yoke put on the pinion end and he did some clearance work on the CV and I haven't had an issue since. I also added 4* shims at the front axle and this setup seems to work very well. I have 10-11 inches of droop when flexed and use 5-6 inches of the slip. The only thing I would change is the AG 10 spline slip is kind of sloppy, but my rig doesn't see any high speed stuff.
63chevyll
1/2 ton status
I like it so far. Ive wheeled it a few times and played in the mud a bunch too, and i like the fact that i can trust a Chromoly tubed shaft and 1410s up steep inclines in a heavy truck and know thats not my weak link.
Ive had joints fail on me in the worse location or incline and said to myself " this will never happen again"
Now.....i have also noticed a slight vibration when in 4X4 when driving on the streets in the winter. Where i may go 50 mph or so for a given couple or miles.
Ill trade the short trip, high speed driving vibration for the known strength going up a rock or when im in 4LO x2 any day.
Mastiff, just go 1310 so the working angles are enough. Ask yourself an honest question, how hard do you beat on your truck? How often? How far from home or tow company? Etc
thanks for the feedback, I'll probably go this direction since I don't intend on driving very fast in 4wd.
It's much to pretty to really beat on IMO....
I'll probably go that route. I need to get Tom Woods on the phone and understand the options. But you've captured my philosophy. I do not intend to beat the snot out of my truck.
I may not be running in rocks, but mine is spinning at high speed over bumpy terrain, going from bump to droop constantly and the front shaft has given me very little issues.
I had to rebuild the center ball thing at the beginning of last year, but it was the stock joint, so I think it served its purpose... (still had the plastic injection stuff instead of c clips that needs to be melted out with a torch).
I had to rebuild the center ball thing at the beginning of last year, but it was the stock joint, so I think it served its purpose... (still had the plastic injection stuff instead of c clips that needs to be melted out with a torch).
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
Mine works fine too, however 4wheelin has a 6 or 7 inch lift which obviously makes things worse. That combined with decent flex in situations where only the passenger side (or whatever side your drive is on) droops creates serious angles. Thats one of a few reasons why i like to stay low with my lift.
Do you have the 3R CV? IIRC, that was very limited in angle. I'd stick with it otherwise. I'm sure you droop as much as I do, nearly 30 degrees.
None of the trucks mentioned in this thread are very tall so this should be a very easy application to fit. I have 8" on mine and the single joint (1410) shaft I'm using is smooth as silk with respect to operating angle when flexed. Mine isn't balanced and may not be the best for interstate speed 4wd but that's not a concern for me. With the low lift involved and not making crazy high hp, the 1310 CV should be fine. The only thing I'd do different is step up the axle joint to a 1350 to cut down on spare parts needed in the tool box.
I have whatever the stock one is.
I ground the stops down though. If you don't do that, you will be in a world of trouble.
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
Yeah i just meant if your over the operating range of the stock or stockish shafts and you want your front shaft to run smooth at freeway speeds then its time to get out the big bucks.
Oh yeah, I agree and I should have worded it a little different but my reply wasn't directed and you or anyone specific. Just - IMO - when you're dealing with lift at or below 8" this really isn't a huge issue that requires mega dollar driveshafts.
Depends what you consider mega dollar. Looks to me like a 1310 shaft will be $500 and a 1350 would be $650-700. That's real money. Admittedly, this is driven partly by ORD springs which need a lot of travel. The angles aren't crazy, but well out of stock range.
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
Ah ok! Yeah for us its not much problem. Ill probably build a cheapo square shaft to deal with my droop. Thats why they exist!
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
Sounds about right. Thats in the range it cost me to get my rear shaft made. I think by megadollar were talking about the $1000 front shaft and what it really buys you.
Some driveline guys will reuse your old stuff to make a new shaft, saving you money. That wasnt an option for me but my front shaft will be made from stock front parts by myself.
Richards square shaft is pretty cool. He capped the male portion off and filled it with fluid. And I think he also had some beads of brazing rod down the sides and ground down for a nice fit into the female tube.
