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How much front driveshaft slip?


This looks like the 7" working travel spline from driveshaftsuperstore. (http://www.driveshaftsuperstore.com/Drive_shaft_long_slip_yoke_and_spline.htm). They tell me it's all steel (no plastic coating).

long2.jpg


They offer to machine it down for any size tubing 3" or less. I think the intended application may be for something mid-ship for a 2-piece driveline. Since they have to machine it in every case, they let you choose the diameter for no extra charge.

I've been talking to local shops and none of them want to use full-spline since it doesn't seal very well. They also refuse to find these kinds of parts for me and if I carry them in, they will only weld and balance for cash - no receipt.
 
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This looks like the 7" working travel spline from driveshaftsuperstore. (http://www.driveshaftsuperstore.com/Drive_shaft_long_slip_yoke_and_spline.htm). They tell me it's all steel (no plastic coating).

long2.jpg


They offer to machine it down for any size tubing 3" or less. I think the intended application may be for something mid-ship for a 2-piece driveline. Since they have to machine it in every case, they let you choose the diameter for no extra charge.

I've been talking to local shops and none of them want to use full-spline since it doesn't seal very well. They also refuse to find these kinds of parts for me and if I carry them in, they will only weld and balance for cash - no receipt.


Why don't you just call Tom woods and be done?
 
Why don't you just call Tom woods and be done?

Because:
a) nobody has a perfect solution
b) apparently I prefer to waste time scheming instead of shipping

I have actually been talking to them about shipping a shaft out for rebuild. But there doesn't seem be anything offering all:
  • Travel of 6" or more
  • Will balance at high speed
  • Long-term durability
From Woods:
Using a 10.5" spline will add $100 to the cost of most drive shafts. Using up to 22.5" of spline will add $150 to the cost of most drive shafts.

There are a few down sides to this type of shaft that you need to be aware of. Among them are cost, service procedures, longevity and safety. The drive shaft is substantially heavier than most other drive shafts and is not recommended for high speeds. At higher speeds, this extra mass will create excessive forces on the output of the transfer case and the pinion.
 
Because we're not all going to go out and buy one of these:

View attachment 211482
This shaft was done by Jesse at High Angle. it took us awhile to get a good working seal, but this one has a 1000 race miles. It isn't cheap, at over $700, but it is the best shaft that I have found in 15 years of looking.
 
Because:
a) nobody has a perfect solution
b) apparently I prefer to waste time scheming instead of shipping

I have actually been talking to them about shipping a shaft out for rebuild. But there doesn't seem be anything offering all:
  • Travel of 6" or more
  • Will balance at high speed
  • Long-term durability
From Woods:

Do you drive long distances with the hubs locked at 45mph+? That was what they asked me, in essence, when I asked about that issue. For me, the answer was no, no hesitation at all. In that case, the second two bullets become non-issues.
 
I have driven mine home at 80 on accident with the hubs locked in.

It vibrates a bit, but it just felt like I had tossed a wheel weight.

It is not balanced.

Basically you build the shaft for cheap and get those slips, or spend big money. Idk if there is a middle ground price verse quality etc.

Has anybody called Adams Driveshafts? I have heard really great things about them. http://www.adamsdriveshaftoffroad.com/
 
I don't want to drive it in the snow, but I take it up North every November.
 
I don't want to drive it in the snow, but I take it up North every November.

Hubs locked, at high speed?

People said I was crazy last time I mentioned this, but maybe it would be a worthwhile trade to move the shackle to the front. All the old Jeeps and Scouts are that way. The main argument I heard against it was that people like to ram them into rocks or something. 8" slip requirement drops to maybe 2", plus the angles don't get steep.
 
Yeah, you leave the hubs locked, slide the shifter to 2 when the road is dry. When you turn onto a side road, parking lot, etc., you shift to 4. Then back to 2 again later. Stopping every time to lock/unlock the hubs would be crazy. 4x4 on dry roads makes the truck track weird and is hard on stuff. 2x4 on ice with swampers doesn't work. So yeah, part of the time is highway speed. I suppose they don't do this in AZ.

There's also the dream of high speed in the sand.
 
Hubs locked, at high speed?

People said I was crazy last time I mentioned this, but maybe it would be a worthwhile trade to move the shackle to the front. All the old Jeeps and Scouts are that way. The main argument I heard against it was that people like to ram them into rocks or something. 8" slip requirement drops to maybe 2", plus the angles don't get steep.

Do you remember what those vehicles rode like?
 
There's also the dream of high speed in the sand.

You wont notice driveshaft vibration from an unbalanced shaft at high speed in the sand.

I can promise you that.

(you will feel the vibration of a blown cv joint however.... :D)
 
Yeah, you leave the hubs locked, slide the shifter to 2 when the road is dry. When you turn onto a side road, parking lot, etc., you shift to 4. Then back to 2 again later. Stopping every time to lock/unlock the hubs would be crazy. 4x4 on dry roads makes the truck track weird and is hard on stuff. 2x4 on ice with swampers doesn't work. So yeah, part of the time is highway speed. I suppose they don't do this in AZ.

There's also the dream of high speed in the sand.

The way it was explained to me is that the thing will wear down and get sloppy over time if you run it high speed often. The occasional excursion to high speed should not be a problem. Driving from wheeling spot to wheeling spot at 45 mph with hubs locked is more where I would operate. I'll always unlock before hitting the highway.
 
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