looking at this picture, and knowing that the slip yoke is a total of 6"s long how much would you tell the guy at the driveshaft shop to lengthen it? i was thinking either tell him to add 2"-2.5" so that the driveshaft can still move in plenty.
CK5
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how much should i get my dshaft lengthened?
- Thread starter 85 Jimmy
- Start date
to the rust line, bout 1 3/4" to 2" max.
can i ask you how you came to that conclusion?
The shiny part is what was originally inside the TC for all those years... the rusted part is the part that's exposed to the elements...
Here is how my stock length shaft looked with 8" of lift....
Here's my new shaft...
Here is how my stock length shaft looked with 8" of lift....
Here's my new shaft...
readymix
3/4 ton status
2"
If you end up needing shims it will be to rotate the pinion up. That would make the DS too long.
PM Ira (Sandawgk5) and get his input on the shims and pinion angle. I remember going through the same thing on his K5.
If you end up needing shims it will be to rotate the pinion up. That would make the DS too long.
PM Ira (Sandawgk5) and get his input on the shims and pinion angle. I remember going through the same thing on his K5.
sure, the rusted spot is how much the factory allowed to stick out hence the rust from it being under the truck its whole life outside of the seal. The shiny part should be inside the slip part of the transfercase so it is behind the seal.
I usually like 2" of slip and your showing 4" sticking out so it should go in right next to the 2" mark or the rusted mark.
damn im slow
I usually like 2" of slip and your showing 4" sticking out so it should go in right next to the 2" mark or the rusted mark.
damn im slow
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well that rust spot is not where it was "originally" after i put the lift on i ended up breaking an ear off of the yoke and it was cheaper to get a new d-shaft than to get a new yoke welded on... that shaft has only been in the truck for about a year...
i'll go ahead and tell the guy to lengthen it 2" and to weld on a 1350 yoke...
i'll go ahead and tell the guy to lengthen it 2" and to weld on a 1350 yoke...
Whatever man, that's where it was originally in someone's truck... the point is get it lengthened so you have about 2" or so of slip...
Mike D
1/2 ton status
Here is a suggestion, go to a sand and gravel business. Place 2 each 2"x8" boards ( parrallel ) one on each bed rail ( to keep the bed from bending ). Drive empty truck on weight scale, close to end of scale. Weigh, now have gravel scoup carefully press on bed boards until rear axle touches snubber ( frame stops ). Obtain new gross weight and measure new drive shaft nose length. This difference ( empty driveshaft nose length - maximum compressed driveshaft nose length ) gives you a true working shaft length. I would also figgure in an extra 1 1/2 inches in case you accidently crush a frame stop ( you don't want to damage the transfer case housing or seal ).
Also check the splined axle shaft movement in the transfer case. Will it go all the way in the transfer case to the U joint ? If not, compensate for it.
Also check the splined axle shaft movement in the transfer case. Will it go all the way in the transfer case to the U joint ? If not, compensate for it.
Did you miss that little word NEW??? The reason it is soo far out now is b/c i just put a 14bff in...
Holy cow - just drop it off at reputable drive line shop on your way to work and let them tell you how much to lengthen it, then pick it up on your way home. They're not going to give you enough of a discount for bringing in just the driveline to justify doing it twice.
Besides everyone knows it's about longevity not how long it is.
Measure from the seal on the transfercase to the end of the yolk on the diff and give that measurement to the place lengthening it. Tell them how you measured it and they WILL tell you this is the RIGHT way. I just hed my rear one done.
Tarey
http://www.arizonadrivelines.com/how_to_measure_a_drive_shaft.htm
Tarey
http://www.arizonadrivelines.com/how_to_measure_a_drive_shaft.htm
Yeah I caught that, I just figured by new you meant you got a non-broken, new to you, still in one piece d-shaft (especially because it's the stock length)
I figured if you were going to spend coin on a new d-shaft you wouldn't have bought a stock one... for reference the new d-shaft I pictured in my first post was only $75 plus u-joints...Plus the 14ff neck sticks out further than 10b's... so when you swap from a 10b to a 14ff it pushes the shaft in, not out...
What'd you swap from?
readymix
3/4 ton status
shaun89
1/2 ton status
i think besides getting a longer shaft made, i think u should really look into a CV shaft. sorry if someone has said this already, i didnt read everything.
readymix
3/4 ton status
I could be thinking about it backwards. I know I have measured it before, and I will try to do the same tonight....as long as I can get my buddy to drive his 1/2 ton over here.
Just picture it in your head... picture a 14ff and a 10b from the side (looking at the drum where the wheel bolts on)...
Look at the distance from where the spring perches are to the yoke where the d-shaft bolts in at... the distance on a 14ff is bigger, thus it pushes the d-shaft into the TC more...
Look at the distance from where the spring perches are to the yoke where the d-shaft bolts in at... the distance on a 14ff is bigger, thus it pushes the d-shaft into the TC more...
YZEATER
1/2 ton status
for once i believe avery is correct. i can look tomorrow to be sure, got both outside.
Ouch...
