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How reliable is the 5.3 motor? Is the 5.7 a better engine?

I guess for me, more than the wiring being a hassle, would be needing to get some type of "custom" tune or programing to make it work, then having said programing go haywire and leave me stranded somewhere. I think I'd be pretty agrivated if my, say 78 K5, went into limp mode for some damn reason.

so for me to go that rout, i'd want to be able to tune/program myself so that I'm not relient on someone else to fix my rig...

I'll start reading up on it. I'm just getting older and more resistant to change. LOL! I got a smart phone cause my boss wanted me to. And I curse at it multiple times a day when i freezes up.

Back in my day....:D
 
COCHEV said:
I guess for me, more than the wiring being a hassle, would be needing to get some type of "custom" tune or programing to make it work, then having said programing go haywire and leave me stranded somewhere. I think I'd be pretty agrivated if my, say 78 K5, went into limp mode for some damn reason.

so for me to go that rout, i'd want to be able to tune/program myself so that I'm not relient on someone else to fix my rig...

I'll start reading up on it. I'm just getting older and more resistant to change. LOL! I got a smart phone cause my boss wanted me to. And I curse at it multiple times a day when i freezes up.

Back in my day....:D
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I am slowly making progress on getting more with it with the techno crap. Part of why I went with the 5.7 with TBI was easy for me to repair and no computer necessary. Baby steps so my brain doesn't explode.
 
I love my LS3 6.2L 426hp in my new Camaro, its the balls :waytogo:

If I had more money (at the time) I would have put a 6.0L in my truck rather than building a 355. I can afford the swap now but the engine still only has 3k miles on it :doah:

My stepdad's 2000 6.0L went 285k miles before he traded it in. The engine ran great and had plenty of power still but had some piston slap on cold mornings.
 
OK...I could go ahead and Google it to save myself shame, but I'll just ask instead...how do I know what engine mine has...I know that according to the VIN it would have been a 5.7, but I have no idea if that engine is original or not.
 
COCHEV said:
I guess for me, more than the wiring being a hassle, would be needing to get some type of "custom" tune or programing to make it work, then having said programing go haywire and leave me stranded somewhere. I think I'd be pretty agrivated if my, say 78 K5, went into limp mode for some damn reason.

so for me to go that rout, i'd want to be able to tune/program myself so that I'm not relient on someone else to fix my rig...

I'll start reading up on it. I'm just getting older and more resistant to change. LOL! I got a smart phone cause my boss wanted me to. And I curse at it multiple times a day when i freezes up.

Back in my day....:D
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All you do is program it once and its done where as with a carb you have to adjust it to keep it running good.
The only other time you would have to reprogram it is if you do a cam swap or something big.

And you phone freezes up cause its a droid.
 
Chief Brody said:
OK...I could go ahead and Google it to save myself shame, but I'll just ask instead...how do I know what engine mine has...I know that according to the VIN it would have been a 5.7, but I have no idea if that engine is original or not.
Click to expand...

Get the casting numbers off of the block and google them. There is a website that lists every casting number for small and big block chevys. Can't remeber what it is though... :doah:
 
From a reliability standpoint, GM only went forward with the 4.8/5.3/6.0L small blocks.

I have a pretty decent full roller, Vortec headed 383 stroker and while it's been great, I'd do a 5.3/6.0L without question now a days. When I built my motor the LS series was practically brand new and take outs were rare and swaps were completely new.

Now, 2-3K gets you a literally bolt in, turn key motor. Lighter, more powerful, MPFI, more fuel efficient, etc. I wouldn't even consider building a motor any more unless you're seriously competing.
 
EFI engines

TBI 350 = reliable, okay mileage. 200,000 miles between overhauls

Vortec 350 = leaky intake, burnt spider injectors, bad distributors, better power than the TBI, but not enough fuel economy for the trouble. 200,000 miles between overhals

LS 5.3 = More power, better mileage, Around 200-250,000 they need knock sensors(installed according to GM TSB) & updated intake gaskets, a lower A/C idler pullley, exhaust manifolds usually pop a bolt or two off by this time, & rear main cover gasket(becase the bolts weep oil). Most 4l60's don't last much longer than that either so that is a good time to do the rear main gasket. Not ncommon to see a 350,000 mile engine.

Of course they all need regular maintence & tune-ups. But the LS series has longer intervals between them.

These are just my observations from working on them. There are exceptions to every thing. I recommend the LS for engine swaps if you can budget it. They are becoming much more affordable every year. I recently aquired a roll-over 2001 Tahoe. Brought it home & parted it out. I kept the engine & trans. I sold the parts for more than I gave for the Tahoe.
 
Funny how its like a 10 gap for retro fitting. 10 years ago on k5 the hot ticket was a TPI swap. Guess there just needs to be a big enough surplus in the junk yard for us to be able to put em in our trucks. Lol!

Sent from my DROID2 GLOBAL using Tapatalk
 
buefchris said:
Replacing the EFI for a carb on that engine does seem like putting wagon wheels on a indy car.
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Or an SUV?

hummer-h3-with-wagon-wheels.jpg
 
buefchris said:
Replacing the EFI for a carb on that engine does seem like putting wagon wheels on a indy car.
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If wagon wheels made more power I bet they would put them on indy cars. I'd carb one on a street vehicle, and I hate messing with carbs on anything but 2 stroke dirt toys.
 
Chevy305 said:
Get the casting numbers off of the block and google them. There is a website that lists every casting number for small and big block chevys. Can't remeber what it is though... :doah:
Click to expand...

Looks like a big "GM" and a "20" underneath the GM and then this number 3970010
 
Yup, seen plenty of those blocks. 2 and 4 bolt mains too from the same casting number. I find that strange but I've seen it with my own eyes.
 
boz42 said:
EFI engines

TBI 350 = reliable, okay mileage. 200,000 miles between overhauls

Vortec 350 = leaky intake, burnt spider injectors, bad distributors, better power than the TBI, but not enough fuel economy for the trouble. 200,000 miles between overhals

LS 5.3 = More power, better mileage, Around 200-250,000 they need knock sensors(installed according to GM TSB) & updated intake gaskets, a lower A/C idler pullley, exhaust manifolds usually pop a bolt or two off by this time, & rear main cover gasket(becase the bolts weep oil). Most 4l60's don't last much longer than that either so that is a good time to do the rear main gasket. Not ncommon to see a 350,000 mile engine.

Of course they all need regular maintence & tune-ups. But the LS series has longer intervals between them.

These are just my observations from working on them. There are exceptions to every thing. I recommend the LS for engine swaps if you can budget it. They are becoming much more affordable every year. I recently aquired a roll-over 2001 Tahoe. Brought it home & parted it out. I kept the engine & trans. I sold the parts for more than I gave for the Tahoe.
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This is a great summary. Where would my stock 78 350 in the K5 fit in this? What I like about the stock 78 K5 is that it is Federal with limited emissions... if you cal pcv valve emissions. It also seams much easier to work on then the LS 5.3.
 
wazzabie said:
It also seams much easier to work on then the LS 5.3.
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Work on them enough and have the right tools for the job, it becomes easy to work on, just like the 5.7's did, they've been around long enough and you've done more than enough work on them to know what it takes to get whatever done to them.

Obviously the 5.3 will have different procedures than the 5.7, but in reality it's all the same. Just learning a new design.


:D
 
ls motors are easier to work on, not to mention intake gasket swaps don't involve any coolant anymore LOL
 
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