Cast aluminum if your talking about the np208
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Hunting truck / backup vehicle / something to work on.
- Thread starter pparker
- Start date
Feels pretty brittle i def wanna make something to protect it.
Yeah, I wrote that post right after the first picture you posted of it, and forgot to hit submit. Then when I got back on here today, I hit Post Reply, not knowing you had posted more pictures of it. Did you paint it, or did it come painted?
Martin
Martin
Ive done that a couple times already, and it submits when i didnt mean too,
I just cleaned it, i sent off the tailhousing to Tom Woods and they painted it gray when they cut it down and installed the SYE.
Installed 208, cleaned off core support.
Going to paint core support black where i can and comb the fins on radiator and trans cooler, they kinda rough.
Need to take off rear shackles and widen them for the ord extreme shackles to allow further droop so i can measure for rear driveshaft.
Going to have to cut exhaust, pass side is going to interfere with front drive shaft. Then remove cat, maybe install two magnaflow cats and i got two quiet flownasters to runs behind those have dual exhaust, tryin to keep quiet.
Will be outboarding shocks sometime next few weeks. And making room for rear sway bar for later.
Going to paint core support black where i can and comb the fins on radiator and trans cooler, they kinda rough.
Need to take off rear shackles and widen them for the ord extreme shackles to allow further droop so i can measure for rear driveshaft.
Going to have to cut exhaust, pass side is going to interfere with front drive shaft. Then remove cat, maybe install two magnaflow cats and i got two quiet flownasters to runs behind those have dual exhaust, tryin to keep quiet.
Will be outboarding shocks sometime next few weeks. And making room for rear sway bar for later.
Got all the body mounts installed, Had to make some cut outs on the front two, but it worked fine.
Replaced my driver rear hub i had already rebuilt because i knew it was going to leak, BTW tighten to 50ftlb, back off, retorq to 35, then backoff 1/4 turn, ends up being hand tight on the spindle nut. Kenny showed me that was factory specs.
Cleaned off core support and inner fenders i just need to paint them, measured rear driveshaft going to order in the morning, cut a tube to go across frame infront of rear axle to mount outboarded shocks to, might just run 12'' shocks in front and rear. need to patch big hole in my evap box and might order a PF condenser along with ford orifice tube for AC.
I need to replace my trans xmember its bent and frame is bent there aswell. after i mount shocks and weld in spring perches all that is left is put front clip back together put fuel tank back on, fill all fluids, adjust ebrake cables, order limit straps, cut my rockers and maybe fenders, make sure gauges all workin, gonna let exhaust shop do pipes, then ill make sliders maybe roll bar, replace all weatherstripping, power window relays, build rear bumper with tire carrier, paint job, and then work on interior. maybe not all in that order but its getting closer. still a ton of work to get from factory to where it is and what is left.
Replaced my driver rear hub i had already rebuilt because i knew it was going to leak, BTW tighten to 50ftlb, back off, retorq to 35, then backoff 1/4 turn, ends up being hand tight on the spindle nut. Kenny showed me that was factory specs.
Cleaned off core support and inner fenders i just need to paint them, measured rear driveshaft going to order in the morning, cut a tube to go across frame infront of rear axle to mount outboarded shocks to, might just run 12'' shocks in front and rear. need to patch big hole in my evap box and might order a PF condenser along with ford orifice tube for AC.
I need to replace my trans xmember its bent and frame is bent there aswell. after i mount shocks and weld in spring perches all that is left is put front clip back together put fuel tank back on, fill all fluids, adjust ebrake cables, order limit straps, cut my rockers and maybe fenders, make sure gauges all workin, gonna let exhaust shop do pipes, then ill make sliders maybe roll bar, replace all weatherstripping, power window relays, build rear bumper with tire carrier, paint job, and then work on interior. maybe not all in that order but its getting closer. still a ton of work to get from factory to where it is and what is left.
Make sure you let it off gas (cure) the proper amount of time.
I tried to do a second coat before the first cured and I had bubbles come through which left the POR 15 porous and moisture got underneath it.
I did the floor of my cab and now I'm going to have to redo it, I have some rust bubbles forming under the POR 15.
good to know, i read your also supposed to coat with something else after to seal it.
Yeah I used POR15 's top coat chassis black.
The pipe is cut to 47.5” long. There is Plenty of room move pipe further front or back while above the frame. I could probably get away with 2.5” shocks here would just shave a little off ubolt plate. There is room for 14” shock, but not a 16” unless you want the bottom below the axle tube which would probably be ok for some people, but in my case i dont have 16”s and so im either runnin a 12 or 14, most likely a 12 because of driveshaft angle.
Just gonna make plates and weld on frame with a notch cut out on top for pipe to rest in and weld gussets from plate to pipe.
I could bolt the plates to frame aswell, but i like to weld and hate driling holes.
The plates im Useing are some 4” flat strap, maybe two 8” long pieces, its i think 3/16 thick, cut notch for pipe in top, and weld to frame with a wet rag between fuel lines and frame on inside. (Fuel lines are also empty and tank is out).
The tube is pretty thick Oilfield DOM from a pump or something that was leftover. I think 1.5”OD by like .250 wall or so, way overkill.
If yall need more specs let me know
im sure regular 120 wall would be fine with 1.5” DOM. this is just shock mounting, so not like full on axle weight and impacts are being sent to frame through shocks.
Will be setting bumps after i get these setup aswell and limit strap in center,(gotta make a hoop or truss). pretty sure im gonna max out 30’ driveshaft with my droop, so will have to be limited, atleast in the center and keep some articulation.
Tom woods said 42’ degree shaft is meant for slower RPMs i would tear it up when i drive on highway, so cant do it.
Im ok with shocks being the articulation limit strap for droop esp if weight is mainly suspended by the center strap.
I dont plan on hitting high speed bumps at full articulation anyway. But it would make an awesome video to watch.
Just gonna make plates and weld on frame with a notch cut out on top for pipe to rest in and weld gussets from plate to pipe.
I could bolt the plates to frame aswell, but i like to weld and hate driling holes.
The plates im Useing are some 4” flat strap, maybe two 8” long pieces, its i think 3/16 thick, cut notch for pipe in top, and weld to frame with a wet rag between fuel lines and frame on inside. (Fuel lines are also empty and tank is out).
The tube is pretty thick Oilfield DOM from a pump or something that was leftover. I think 1.5”OD by like .250 wall or so, way overkill.
If yall need more specs let me know
im sure regular 120 wall would be fine with 1.5” DOM. this is just shock mounting, so not like full on axle weight and impacts are being sent to frame through shocks.
Will be setting bumps after i get these setup aswell and limit strap in center,(gotta make a hoop or truss). pretty sure im gonna max out 30’ driveshaft with my droop, so will have to be limited, atleast in the center and keep some articulation.
Tom woods said 42’ degree shaft is meant for slower RPMs i would tear it up when i drive on highway, so cant do it.
Im ok with shocks being the articulation limit strap for droop esp if weight is mainly suspended by the center strap.
I dont plan on hitting high speed bumps at full articulation anyway. But it would make an awesome video to watch.
Pulled out my evap heater box, had three rats nests and multiple dirt dobber nests and several spent casings all throughout, this will probably get rid of a few rattles when driving around. Not sure how the shotgun shell made it down there thats a tricky one.
Going to be installing new heater core, evap, drier/accum, lines, compressor, orifice, and orings with 134.
I might also be doing condenser but i may wait until i upgrade engine and fans to switch to paralell flow condenser and dave some money. Been researchin them quite a bit, and can get 7-10 deg cooler at idle with electric fans using 134 with PF condenser. And will do 2-4deg better than tub and fin with the rpms up high like highway.
But for me just running old factory fan and shround for now, unsure of idle, i think im gonna stick with factory condenser unless this one leaks. Its actually about same as PF without the fans. Because the pf will make pressure without enough airflow.
An Ac tech i spoke with today told me to initialky charge with 29 oz and Wait for a really hot day then add some more, but dont go over 32 oz. Hope that helps someone. By
Going to be installing new heater core, evap, drier/accum, lines, compressor, orifice, and orings with 134.
I might also be doing condenser but i may wait until i upgrade engine and fans to switch to paralell flow condenser and dave some money. Been researchin them quite a bit, and can get 7-10 deg cooler at idle with electric fans using 134 with PF condenser. And will do 2-4deg better than tub and fin with the rpms up high like highway.
But for me just running old factory fan and shround for now, unsure of idle, i think im gonna stick with factory condenser unless this one leaks. Its actually about same as PF without the fans. Because the pf will make pressure without enough airflow.
An Ac tech i spoke with today told me to initialky charge with 29 oz and Wait for a really hot day then add some more, but dont go over 32 oz. Hope that helps someone. By
Got dash all cleaned up, and that vacuum hose that hangs down goes up and into the cowl area under the wiper blades, fastereddie told me that,
We Installed nutzerts to holes that just had self tappers holding box on, replaced washer hoses and i cant remember what else i did, i do alot of daydreaming about driving this thing, it is kind of pitiful, just gotta move on.
I need to do like a backstory on all this a little more, but my Father in Law great guy has been incredible help. He actually gave me a ton of parts he had leftover or laying around from stuff. Like the D44 in the front is his. And the locker in my rear axle was his old one, i would definately not be working on any of this if it werent for him.
Never tackled anything this involved before but i got to say its worth it so far, i like to learn and research things to the extreme and this has really been fun, frustrating at times, but fun. After this ill be helping him build his awesome 4 door k30.
We Installed nutzerts to holes that just had self tappers holding box on, replaced washer hoses and i cant remember what else i did, i do alot of daydreaming about driving this thing, it is kind of pitiful, just gotta move on.
I need to do like a backstory on all this a little more, but my Father in Law great guy has been incredible help. He actually gave me a ton of parts he had leftover or laying around from stuff. Like the D44 in the front is his. And the locker in my rear axle was his old one, i would definately not be working on any of this if it werent for him.
Never tackled anything this involved before but i got to say its worth it so far, i like to learn and research things to the extreme and this has really been fun, frustrating at times, but fun. After this ill be helping him build his awesome 4 door k30.
Forgot to mention put a nutzert on back fender bolt yesterday.
Today i got fire wall patched up, and worked on the AC Box. I took it all apart and got all the rats nests out, wiped everything down real good disenfectant wipes, put new blend door plastic thing on.
I guess someone punched hole through there when replacing heater hoses so luckyly the pieces were still inside, so i stitched them together, superglued, and put fiberglass repair kit over it all, turned out good.
The firewall i think was damaged from previous wrecks and shotty body work. But its nice and flatter than it was now.
Got plates cut for my frame mounts for outboard shocks, i welded caps on my shocktube, and sanded them, wiped with varsol and got steelit paint on them, almost ready to weld up after i drill few holes on driver side one.
Also cut apart bracket that retains rear bumper bolts so i can weld inside frame rails by gas tank, gonna prep that area all back there with por15 couple coats and paint before stickin gas tank in aswell as fenders and core support.
Thats about it, bunch of parts comin in this weekend, driveshafts and all new AC parts so i can get stuff going pretty quick might be drivin in a week or so. Then comes paint and interior, but ill probably paint it. Then start daily driving it while i rebuild front ends and full tuneups on my wifes tahoe and my truck after that, so might be another month till i get to interior and rolbar
Not much to do to interior except swap seats and replace side stuffs and radio.
Today i got fire wall patched up, and worked on the AC Box. I took it all apart and got all the rats nests out, wiped everything down real good disenfectant wipes, put new blend door plastic thing on.
I guess someone punched hole through there when replacing heater hoses so luckyly the pieces were still inside, so i stitched them together, superglued, and put fiberglass repair kit over it all, turned out good.
The firewall i think was damaged from previous wrecks and shotty body work. But its nice and flatter than it was now.
Got plates cut for my frame mounts for outboard shocks, i welded caps on my shocktube, and sanded them, wiped with varsol and got steelit paint on them, almost ready to weld up after i drill few holes on driver side one.
Also cut apart bracket that retains rear bumper bolts so i can weld inside frame rails by gas tank, gonna prep that area all back there with por15 couple coats and paint before stickin gas tank in aswell as fenders and core support.
Thats about it, bunch of parts comin in this weekend, driveshafts and all new AC parts so i can get stuff going pretty quick might be drivin in a week or so. Then comes paint and interior, but ill probably paint it. Then start daily driving it while i rebuild front ends and full tuneups on my wifes tahoe and my truck after that, so might be another month till i get to interior and rolbar
Not much to do to interior except swap seats and replace side stuffs and radio.
So i been por 15ing cor support, inner fenders, and around inside of gastank area, i guess i need to take pictures of that, and when rolled truck out of Shop and back in i got some crunching on the steering wheel. Not sure yet but im thinking its the plastic universal joint inside, this could have been very bad going down the road or street.
I think this mainly happened due to turning without power steering. Ill post video of how much play was created, be mindful we just went through and tightened the entire column a year ago when we fixed blinker and dimmer and it hasnt been driven at all since then.(that is how far wheel turns before making any contact with actual steering shaft.
So ill be replacing bearings, plastic ujoint, should be almost a new column by then.
Got all my parts in for airbox and hvac parts, i combed out the factory condenser, just need to flush it and install all the ac box stuff so front clip can go back on,
Driveshaft came in, so she is gettin really close to being able to move on her own. But now i gotta set time aside to fix column ontop of that.
ORD recommends driving around without shocks to break in the springs, anyone else done this?
View attachment IMG_7030.MOV
I think this mainly happened due to turning without power steering. Ill post video of how much play was created, be mindful we just went through and tightened the entire column a year ago when we fixed blinker and dimmer and it hasnt been driven at all since then.(that is how far wheel turns before making any contact with actual steering shaft.
So ill be replacing bearings, plastic ujoint, should be almost a new column by then.
Got all my parts in for airbox and hvac parts, i combed out the factory condenser, just need to flush it and install all the ac box stuff so front clip can go back on,
Driveshaft came in, so she is gettin really close to being able to move on her own. But now i gotta set time aside to fix column ontop of that.
ORD recommends driving around without shocks to break in the springs, anyone else done this?
View attachment IMG_7030.MOV
Got second coat por15 on fenders and painted abunch of other parts about to go back on, got heater box back together with new heater core and ac box with new ac evaporator.
What could i put against evap to make it wedge it?
What could i put against evap to make it wedge it?
Got heater core, evap, acbox, vents all back in and ready to go. Was a ton more dirt dobber nests inside the dash and vents.
Got bunch more parts painted and put top coat on fenders and core support, ran out of paint.
Got traction bar lower mounts welded to axle, driveshaft installed, spring perches welded on,
Cut front exhaust off, need to lengthen front driveshaft a couple inches.
Workin on gettin Trac bars the correct length, so i can get them mounted up. And then front and rear shocks mounted.
Got bunch more parts painted and put top coat on fenders and core support, ran out of paint.
Got traction bar lower mounts welded to axle, driveshaft installed, spring perches welded on,
Cut front exhaust off, need to lengthen front driveshaft a couple inches.
Workin on gettin Trac bars the correct length, so i can get them mounted up. And then front and rear shocks mounted.
