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I failed smog. Heated O2 wiring questions now.

Ehh, $13 for the right part. Plus dealing with fuel it's not a typical cheap o-ring, it's Viton.

Not saying it should be that much but in the big picture it's not too bad.


I get all of my seals, fittings and hoses at Central Supply here in Fresno. They stock a bunch of viton o-rings for really cheap. I know they have another store in Bakersfield, look them up and take your part in and they'll get you hooked up.
 
I got the part from GM. It was way different the the one I pulled out. Thinner and smaller. Fits a lot better. Got the tank sealed and installed. Also took out the TBI spacer. That made a huge difference. It now shifts into 2nd gear at 10 mph.

So that stuff is done. I forget what all else failed right now, I will have to check the paperwork. But I'm close!


Oh, it feels like a sports car with the tiny tires. It freakin gets it off the line. I bet I could roast off the tires.
 
If you took out the TBI spacer and the trans shifts sooner you better readjust your TV cable, if that isn't adjusted correctly you will burn up your trans in short order. Although you might want to adjust it softer just for the test like I mentioned earlier.

I noticed you were about the same RPM in both tests so it was obviously in a higher gear for the 25 MPH test.
 
I need to do some work on the throttle cable and the TV cable. Now the throttle cable is stiff. It's so hard to step on the gas pedal. Real hard.


I need to learn about the tv cable adjustment. I know you push in the bottom on behind the braket. And I have heard it makes a ratcheting sound, but mine doesn't. With me working solo, I pushed in the button and just move the throttle linkage to WOT. That's how I adjust it. Also, when I installed the TBI spacer the first time, it shifts harder, like chirps the tires every time going into 2nd. I think if I adjust it, it won't shift as hard.
 
munepit said:
I need to do some work on the throttle cable and the TV cable. Now the throttle cable is stiff. It's so hard to step on the gas pedal. Real hard.


I need to learn about the tv cable adjustment. I know you push in the bottom on behind the braket. And I have heard it makes a ratcheting sound, but mine doesn't. With me working solo, I pushed in the button and just move the throttle linkage to WOT. That's how I adjust it. Also, when I installed the TBI spacer the first time, it shifts harder, like chirps the tires every time going into 2nd. I think if I adjust it, it won't shift as hard.
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There is a button shaped like a D on the TV cable. You are supposed to be able to push the button, then floor it, and it sets itself, but that doesn't always work, I've even bust one doing that. So I usually hold the button in and floor it. Then adjust from there if I want firmer or softer. The tighter the cable is, the harder and later it will shift. Of course, make sure your throttle cable is correct first.
 
munepit said:
I will do that before I drive it again. Thanks bud:waytogo:
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I know very little about this setup, but from reading stuff from some of the Masters on here....don't try and "adjust" it. Use the procedure, set it, and forget it. Yes, there are custom settings for advanced setups....but for 99% of the people, these "custom" adjustments people are doing end up killing their trans.

Just my 0.02, be careful, and do some more reading before trying to do a custom adjustment.
 
Informed from a trans guy, I was told that toom uch pressure is better than not enough pressure. Start out with this wide open throttle procedure, then adjust TOWARDS the firewall to make shifts more firm, this also adds pressure to the system.

I was having some major issues with this '87 shifting WAY too soft and slipping real bad, talked with the rebuilder that did my other Burbs trans, he told me which way to adjust without damaging any further, again, towards the firewall adds pressure to the trans lines, making shifts snappier and but alittle higher in the rpm range. There is obviously a happy-medium in there somewhere.

I got in there, readjusted the setting....:D... and moved the cable away from the tbi unit, towards the firewall and it improved the shifting feel and timing so much, I was beyond relieved. Originally I thought the trans was toast.
 
The test guy said something about my EGR. He said it passed the visual, But I forget what else he said. Vacuum leak I think. On the report, It says N/A next to the funtional check on the report. What does N/A mean? Dont I have one? I do have a custom burned chip with code 43 and 44 deleted. Could this be the problem?


2012-04-16_11-52-07_242.jpg
 
According to this site it's N/A because when they test it on the rollers, they don't test the egr function.
 
N/A means not applicable, that is not a failiure, but if he did mention something about EGR, then it's maybe the vacuum line mentionned in the report that control it.

munepit said:
The test guy said something about my EGR. He said it passed the visual, But I forget what else he said. Vacuum leak I think. On the report, It says N/A next to the funtional check on the report. What does N/A mean? Dont I have one? I do have a custom burned chip with code 43 and 44 deleted. Could this be the problem?


2012-04-16_11-52-07_242.jpg
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Failed again. He said I need a new cat. He said if it had a misfire while driving up the grapevine, it would ruin the cat. Well, I broke a valve heading to the grapevine for 60 mile on 7 cylinders. He said It is wasted. It stunk bad too.

Anybody know if I can get a hi flow cat and installed myself? They passed a law in 2009 about cats. If I buy a hi flow one and install it myself. I could say I've had it awhile. He said a cat is around $200.00 installed here.
 
I just had my smog check done (and passed the first time :woot:) I asked the tech about that law after my test and he said there is no way for them to check to see who installed it. He said I could do it myself and no one would know the difference. Just don't make it look like a hack job.
 
As long as it has a CARB sticker on it and is 50 state legal I don't see why not.
 
On the NO (PPM) at 15 mph it measured 1186 and 25 mph was 1276. How in the hell does it double on the 25 mph test. The first fail was in the 600 range, and it just failed in the 1200 range. I don't get it.
 
munepit said:
On the NO (PPM) at 15 mph it measured 1186 and 25 mph was 1276. How in the hell does it double on the 25 mph test. The first fail was in the 600 range, and it just failed in the 1200 range. I don't get it.
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Once the CAT starts to plug up, it only gets worse, so yes the results will get higher till it is completely plugged up.
As for a new CAT, I agree just do it right and make sure it's CA compliant CAT and they can't say anything.
But if it were me, I would do it for $200 installed, a CA CAT is no less than $100 so for the extra $100 I would do it and be done, which I actually did a few years back when I bought this olds and it needed one to pass.
Paid $200 for the car then paid $200 for a CAT and $50 for smog:doah:
 
I recommend the magnoflow 3" high flow cat. Its about $79 bucks from summit. As others have said, if its 50 state legal then its good to go.
 
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