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I failed smog. Heated O2 wiring questions now.

Ok, I'm installing the heated O2. The plug is wrong on the pigtail. It's male and I need female. I know Fordum said not to spice the single O2 wire but what do I do? Thanks,



Here is the pigtail.


2012-07-13_19-56-41_688.jpg


The O2 wire from the one I just took off.

2012-07-13_19-56-58_35.jpg



If I'm not mistaken, that is a single weatherpack connector.
 
Thanks for the offer. I am going to try and splice them first. It just kinda sucks that I spent around $30.00 for this connector and it's not the correct one.
 
Got it hooked up. The temp went up to 120 on the O2. When I was checking to see if it was getting hot. It got to that temp in about one minute before I turned off the ign. How hot does it get?
 
Must get pretty hot. Heres how to bench test


Use a high impedance DC voltmeter as above. Clamp the sensor in a vice, or use a plier or vice-grip to hold it. Clamp your negative voltmeter lead to the case, and the positive to the output wire. Use a propane torch set to high and the inner blue flame tip to heat the fluted or perforated area of the sensor. You should see a DC voltage of at least 0.6 within 20 seconds. If not, most likely cause is open circuit internally or lead fouling. If OK so far, remove from flame. You should see a drop to under 0.1 volt within 4 seconds. If not likely silicone fouled. If still OK, heat for two full minutes and watch for drops in voltage. Sometimes, the internal connections will open up under heat. This is the same a loose wire and is a failure. If the sensor is OK at this point, and will switch from high to low quickly as you move the flame, the sensor is good. Bear in mind that good or bad is relative, with port fuel injection needing faster information than carbureted systems.
 
I found this too.

The sensor does not begin to generate it's full output until it reaches about 600 degrees F. Prior to this time the sensor is not conductive. It is as if the circuit between the sensor and computer is not complete. The mid point is about 0.45 volts. This is neither rich nor lean. A fully warm O2 sensor *will not spend any time at 0.45 volts*. In many cars, the computer sends out a bias voltage of 0.45 through the O2 sensor wire. If the sensor is not warm, or if the circuit is not complete, the computer picks up a steady 0.45 volts. Since the computer knows this is an "illegal" value, it judges the sensor to not be ready. It remains in open loop operation, and uses all sensors except the O2 to determine fuel delivery. Any time an engine is operated in open loop, it runs somewhat rich and makes more exhaust emissions. This translates into lost power, poor fuel economy and air pollution.
 
The headers are the problem with the 02, I dont have emissions down here but i ran mine on the scanner when i had it at our local coal mine property my dad owns and it would jump in and out of open loop, causing it to run funny and bog alot. I ran a 94 s-10 02 and ran it to a constant 12v source and it works great now. Hits closed loop in about 3min idling in the driveway and doesnt come out once its in. I did that in the winter when it was 25 degrees out and it was all good. The thing with headers is they move the sensor farther from the exhaust port, and they have to hit 700 degrees if I remember right before they even start to send a signal back the the ECM. So the engine just runs on what the ECM "thinks" it should run on, regardless of how it runs in the lean/rich category. This problem is horribly aggravated if you have a modified motor running on the stock chip, like i do. The open loop is carefully calibrated for what a stock motor should run on, and in open loop will not deviate from that, mine ran on like .200mj in open loop, which is horribly lean to the point of negative outcomes for the 454, now its fine. It is a great investment and a simple wire in job. Mine had 2 wires of the same color, which are the heater wires, doesnt matter how you hook em up, and a purple signal wire, which does matter how you hook it up. I just cut my old one wire plug off the factory harness, and pinned it into the new 3 wire weatherpak connecter i bought, in the middle pin if memory serves me, and now i just have to buy the 94 s-10 sensor and it plugs right in in like flint. Now the egr pissed me off to no end, and i just bypassed the little a$$hole and dont run one, but like i said, i live in simple old ILL with none of that Cali emissions nonsense.
 

Yep, read that one some time ago. The relevant parts are: From the bottom of the paragraph that begins: Titania sensor

While most automotive sensors are submersible, zirconia-based sensors require a very small supply of reference air from the atmosphere. In theory, the sensor wire harness and connector are sealed. Air that leaches through the wire harness to the sensor is assumed to come from an open point in the harness - usually the ECU which is housed in an enclosed space like the trunk or vehicle interior.

And below that, in the paragraph that starts: Sensor Failures.

Some sensors have an air inlet to the sensor in the lead, so contamination from the lead caused by water or oil leaks can be sucked into the sensor and cause failure.[4]
And if you look at reference 4, you see this link.
Unfortunately, only the title has survived, as it seems to be dead.

4. ^
NGK: Some sensors "breathe" through their leads, so are susceptible to contamination of the leads.


Like I say there have been lots of changes to the O2 sensors, and many do not even require an outside reference any more. But, unless we know for sure, I still advise to be careful when splicing.
 
Old wives tales are accurate sometimes i guess. It was an honor getting my ass handed to me by you Fordum.
 
Not to discredit anything anyone has said, but I had no choice but to splice, used a waterproof heat shrink connector, and mine has been flawless.

It was also the main change from my truck getting 8 mpg hwy to 12 mpg highway.

So.... It worked for me
 
Got it hooked up. The temp went up to 120 on the O2. When I was checking to see if it was getting hot. It got to that temp in about one minute before I turned off the ign. How hot does it get?

The 02 sensor doesn't even work until it reaches 600*F from what I recall. I have been running a heated 02 sensor for years now (just because) and I just bought a 3 way weatherpack connector and then depinned the 02 sensor from the single weatherpack and installed the wire into a 3 wire weatherpack and then added the other 2 required wires (hot and ground) and never had to splice a single wire.
 
The 02 sensor doesn't even work until it reaches 600*F from what I recall. I have been running a heated 02 sensor for years now (just because) and I just bought a 3 way weatherpack connector and then depinned the 02 sensor from the single weatherpack and installed the wire into a 3 wire weatherpack and then added the other 2 required wires (hot and ground) and never had to splice a single wire.

That would be the best way to do it.
 
Old wives tales are accurate sometimes i guess. It was an honor getting my ass handed to me by you Fordum.

But, you made it so easy......:D.

Seriously, though, I agree that it just does not make sense that it would work that way.
But, apparently it does.

I think the key here, and the reason that you will find dozens if not hundreds of people who have spliced them with no problems, is the extremely tiny amount of air needed.
We are talking molecules. I suspect that it can run just fine on a system with a hole so small that water cannot get through.

Think Gore-Tex.

People splice a wire, seal it with the glue type heatshrink, and there is a tiny gap or hole afterwards.
Maybe the glue pulls away from the insulation when flexed, or the heat causes it to run slightly and a small gap to form.

And, of course, with all the different types of sensors now, a lot of the ones being spliced might not need outside air, or might get it through a tiny port on the sensor its self.
Different companies do things different ways.

The reason I knew about this, is convoluted. I read it in a tech journal many years ago.
Did not really believe it. Did a little research, and found a warning in an installation instruction for one that said the same thing.

Then over the years, I found other examples of companies saying that it got the air from the wire.
Then one day, about two years ago, I was at my mechanic friend's shop, fixing his alignment computer.
Got through, wandered over to where he was working on a truck. Noticed a new O2 sensor laying on the lift, and he was removing one.
Made the usual inane comment that nobody is immune from. Said,
"replacing the oxygen sensor, huh?"

Everytime I do that, I expect someone to say " Here's your sign."

He said yep, then, as I was looking back at the computer making sure it was booting up right, he asked if I knew where an oxygen sensor got its reference air from?

I was distracted, and just answered offhand, "it gets it through the wire, alongside the insulation. "
It got quiet.
I looked back, and he was just standing there staring at me.

He said that he might have known. If anyone in the world would know something like that, it would be you.

He said that he had had a couple that had failed after a few months, and he thought he had just gotten a bad batch.
But, somehow, he got word that it was because of the way he was splicing the wires and sealing them up.

I don't remember now, if it was a notice from the makers, Alldata, or where, but he had changed his way of splicing them and it fixed the problem.

Which brings me to a problem I see coming, and the reason for my joke about making it easy.

I am very slowly losing it.

Its not obvious to anyone else yet, but I see it happening. I am not ready to accept it, or give up, and I am working toward either slowing it, stopping it, or maybe even reversing it.

I will probably fail, but its gonna know it was in a fight.

Y5mgisi posted a link that I had read before. And it had some references to the sensor getting its air from the wire.
Would have been a good source to back up what I was saying. But, I did not remember it, or where it was.

I should have.

I have never had a photographic memory, but its been pretty darn good. These days, I find myself missing information.
So far, I seem to be only losing the address of the info.

When I saw the article that link referenced, it all came back to me after the first few sentences.
That has been the way my mind has always worked, but it has gotten worse.

For instance, when I was growing up, I read everything. As far as I know, I read all the Hardy Boys mysteries, as well as all the Tom Swift books that were in print at that time.

Now there is not much information in those books that I can use these days.

But well up into college, and probably up until a couple of years ago, if you handed me one of those books, then either just from the title or after skimming the first page or two, I could give a full recap of the plot, who the villain was, most of the action stuff, and any funny parts just from memory.
Not any more.
I saw one a few weeks ago, picked it up, and even though I recognized the title and the cover, it was like reading a brand new book.

Occasional glimpses would surface, I might remember what one of the characters said next, things like that, but most of it was gone.

I try to keep a journal.
Women keep diaries, men keep journals.
Important difference.

I have suggested that people here do the same. If no one takes any of my advice but this, its the one you want to take.
Trust me, you will be happy you did later.

I use this: http://www.davidrm.com/thejournal/

But, you could do it with Word, or even notepad.
Just do it.

I go back now, and see entries from 3 years or longer ago, and I am fascinated by things that went on that I had forgotten the details of.

And its kinda neat to see me wondering about some situation in the past and knowing now how it turned out.

So, Y5mgisi, don't worry about getting your butt handed to you by me. In a year or so, you will probably easily be able to return the favor.....:doah:
 
I'm tired, but sorry you had this issue with that connector. Details you just don't expect to have problems with.

In the future, if you have to do more weatherpack wiring, the tool to de-pin them is only maybe $10. Was just doing some last night in preparation of wiring up my AFS-74, and was glad I had it. Now you made me question which end is on the one wire O2 sensor, and what end is on the AFS-74!

Judging by your pictures, if you were to depin the purple wire from the three wire connector in your picture, you could depin the stock single wire connector on the truck side of the connection, and put it in the three wireconnector, thus no splicing needed, correct?
 
I'm tired, but sorry you had this issue with that connector. Details you just don't expect to have problems with.

In the future, if you have to do more weatherpack wiring, the tool to de-pin them is only maybe $10. Was just doing some last night in preparation of wiring up my AFS-74, and was glad I had it. Now you made me question which end is on the one wire O2 sensor, and what end is on the AFS-74!

Judging by your pictures, if you were to depin the purple wire from the three wire connector in your picture, you could depin the stock single wire connector on the truck side of the connection, and put it in the three wireconnector, thus no splicing needed, correct?

Good catch! That would be the absolute best way. This is an instance where a weatherpack kit comes in handy.
 
I too spliced my 3 wire sensor with a glue type heat-shrink conector and it has worked fine for a few years. I regularly monitor my systems via my lap-top and Tunerpro and can verify the voltage swings of the O2 sensor.
 
Yes, I don't think we see an issue with splicing, I know mine is spliced as well, and has been for ~10 years.

Re-looking (and a cup of coffee later) I see what you are talking about...the stock single wire vehicle side O2 connector is a male, the AFS-74 O2 side is also male, therefore can't plug together. You'd still have to cut the vehicle O2 wire and crimp on a weatherpack female end.

Luckily I purchased a kit awhile back when I was wiring my fans. Weatherpack actually kind of sucks since they are so big, but I hate having to cut stuff that's already done one way. One of these kits would give you a ton of pins, for that price the connector body itself is a bonus: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Caspers-Ele...Parts_Accessories&hash=item5ae7d1704e&vxp=mtr
 
I didn't read everything in here, feeling lazy, but I could have swore that the O2 sensors are basically just a pyrometer of sorts, and I was also told that's how the dual before & after cat sensors work, the after cat sensor is only detecting a certain temperature difference to determine if the cat is actually working.

Higher temps, too much oxygen then the computer adjusts the air/fuel mixture accordingly.
 
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