CK5
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I finally have a Diesel suburban

its good pratice too jack up one side to get oil in the bearings , and leave it jacked for a few minutes . repeat both sides ! filling the hub with oil helps ,you top up hub just before installing outer bearing . and not too much torque on bearings !
 
its good pratice too jack up one side to get oil in the bearings , and leave it jacked for a few minutes . repeat both sides ! filling the hub with oil helps ,you top up hub just before installing outer bearing . and not too much torque on bearings !
Yeah, I was talking with my coworker about it and we both thought it was weird that the fluid never it to the hub. I drove about 7 miles between cleaning that side and the loud noise happening.

Yep, snug and back off the next keeper notch. I've done it hundreds of times.
 
Endorse. They’re still plentiful, and a time efficient solution to get you back running, safely.

Also, I saw the bearing and instantly heard “liquid hot magma” in my head.

David

Oh she got extra toasty. There's some nice blue coloring on the spindle.
 
So in my search for a new housing, and I’m seeing them not too far from me. Do I go with drum or disc brakes?

I found someone parting out a 96 2500 diesel suburban, so essentially the same axle and brakes. It works and would be a stupid simple swap and easy to keep track of parts wise in the future.

Or I’m seeing newer rears from early 2000s 2500s. Same bolt pattern and I know my stock 16” wheels will fit. I would have to figure out the parking brake cable. Will the stock master cylinder handle disc? Or will I be heading down a path of “might as well” and have to start changing other parts to accommodate the changes.

I’m leaning drums just to keep it simple.
I just need the truck to work. So I can do some bigger maintenance on the stepside.
 
I would never keep drums on a 14bff again, so simple to swap to disc (or get them that way) and the stopping difference is night and day. For the price of the drums alone you can have a complete disc setup with brackets, rotors pads and calipers
 
I am not sold on the conversions. the parking brake is the deal beaker.

Yes you would need to update the master cylinder. I looked at start of thread but didn't see the year of your burb. Does it have any kind of ABS ? if so that will need to be figured into the disc swap, or trashed and run straight old school service brakes.
I am with you go for the bolt replacement, if the gears match that'd be sweet. If your not planning on huge tires the drums will be fine. I like drums, they allow the tire to turn in soft loose terrain while braking.
 
For what you are doing I would just stick to the drum one for now to make it quick and easy and get it back going. This is an unexpected expense, no reason to turn it into a whole bunch more work and money. Continue on with your original plan and get past this failure.
 
Yep for ease of swap go get the matching axle. No dealing with moving spring perches or shock mounts and matching the hydraulic side and park brake cables to the new axle.

The correct drum brake axle will be way more cost effective and quick to do in the short term.

Nothing against the later disc 14b but it’s not as “bolt in” as it’s made out to be.
 
I'm not a fan of the disc conversions, especially for a street driven rig.

A later factory disc setup is the only way I'd swap to disc.

In due time this truck may become the new adventure rig. But for now, it's needed for a daily and some towing duties.

Drums it is.
See if I get lucky and get one this weekend possibly.
 
So here's the "new" axle.
20230708_163528.jpg20230708_161908.jpg20230708_161904.jpg

Not bad for 200 bucks.

I figure I'll use the gears and pinion section from the old rear. I didn't ask what gears this has, more then likely 4.10s. Which is the same as what is in the burb.
It came out of a 97 3500. So it's a bolt in swap over as I could find. I have all new bearings, was planning on them for the old one. So I just need to get new brake parts and put it all together. And new u-bolts too.
 
I have to confirm that they match. And if the new rear has the g80 or not. The old one does.
It'll be a mix and match of the best parts of both.
 
Progress!
Big photo dump.
So I got the rear stripped down and cleaned. New bearings installed in the hubs with tons of grease.
Then yesterday I got the housings swapped out. A forklift with long forks makes it so much easier. I will say that I was surprised that the old ubolts all unscrewed with relative easy. Big Milwaukee impact for the win on that part. Then I got the new brakes installed. At that point I called it a day.

20230819_163941.jpg20230819_163954.jpg20230826_091015.jpg20230826_111819.jpg20230826_111835.jpg20230826_111844.jpg20230826_112200.jpg20230826_112211.jpg20230826_114833.jpg20230826_115210.jpg20230826_123352.jpg20230826_174302.jpg
 
Surprised those u-bolts weren't almost rusted away.

Martin

So was I. I was fully expecting to cut them off but figured I tried the gun first. All came off with out much fuss. Even the bottom plates are un decent shape. I bought new ones just because. But I could have reused the old ones.
 
No pictures as I was busy getting things done.

I don't have the proper tools to swap the bearings on the pinion or the carrier. But I found a local place that was able to do them for me. I dropped them off Thursday before Labor day and I picked them up that Tuesday. Very quick turnaround time.

This weekend I got the carrier and pinion assembly installed. Got the hubs and drums on. New brake lines. And then hit a snag. I didn't have the proper wrench to be able to turn the bleeder screw and have a hose on it. But I picked up a cheap one today that I won't feel bad about modifying if I need too.

But, outside of some fresh gear oil and bleeding the brakes. Everything is all back together.

Just in time too.
 

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