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Ideal fuel pump location

Is there a reason you wouldn't put the valve in the tank other than it being a pain to get in there? I'm thinking is all fuel safe materials, it would seem submerging it wouldn't hurt it and would be the only way to ensure I don't get air in the fuel line.

Inside would be perfect but I don't think you could do it without cutting up the tube on the sending unit.
 
OK, I'll see what I've got when I get the tank out. I'm planning on putting a Holley Hydramat in the tank, and I can put the check valve between the fitting on the hydramat and the fuel pump intake hose. That should keep fuel in the line between the tank and the pump no matter what happens.
 
Putting a check valve on the inlet side of the pump may not be a good idea, pumps aren't that good at pulling, they are good at pushing. You may create a problem since the check valve will have some pressure it has to overcome to flow, even with a small delta.

The Walbro pumps with a check valve have it on the outlet of the pump.

Ideal location is inside the tank.......So you're asking what is the 2nd best location?

You said what I have been thinking the whole time on this thread title.
 
Putting a check valve on the inlet side of the pump may not be a good idea, pumps aren't that good at pulling, they are good at pushing. You may create a problem since the check valve will have some pressure it has to overcome to flow, even with a small delta.

The Walbro pumps with a check valve have it on the outlet of the pump.



You said what I have been thinking the whole time on this thread title.
Point taken....However, when you taken into account the difficulty of replacing the pump, I'm not sure the external pump is clearly second. I think everyone agrees the tank is the best location to make the pump work the least and last the longest. I've only had one pump go out on me away from home, and it was pretty much an all day job to get it replaced. I also cut an access panel into the floor of that truck, and the pump stayed in tank. I believe the fuel also keeps the pump cooler.

I'll skip the check valve in the tank, it says 2psi to open the valve, but it's also got to pull that fluid up and out of the tank. I'll put it on the outlet side. And I guess I'll see how long it lasts and go from there. Good advice and info from everyone, thank you. Time to siphon some gas and get to work.
 
I would think the average pump life has to be around 10 - 15 years or more....maybe less for an inline?

I think operating better during that entire time is more important than the possibly 1 time you should have to replace it. (if it's more than that something else is wrong)

I would definitely not use a knock off pump, a name brand pump only. And use a sock, and keep it clean inside (don't put a new pump in a filthy old tank.

Also, use a TBI tank if possible. If a mech carb pump goes dry for a second it doesn't matter as the bowls likely still have fuel in them. If an EFI pump goes dry for a second the engine may stumble and the pump life is shortened.
 
Most reliable is in the tank, with an access panel in the floor, to get to the top of the tank. This makes a fuel pump change, a 30 min job, without removal of the tank. If that can't happen, then frame mounted as low as possible. The check valve sounds good. Keep it as far away from the exhaust as far as possible. My frame mounted pump vapor locks, if I park for a few minutes, after wheeling in Moab. Only happens wheeling in 95+ degrees. I have added a heat shield which has helped. Modern gas sucks!!!!
 
It sucks even more when you're paying 5.80 a gallon for the ethanol blend they sell here. First time since college I actually have to think about fuel prices before I plan a trip...it starts to add up quick! While it's not Moab, it feels like it this week out here, it's been in the 100's all week, but humid.

When I changed the in-tank pump, I used a Delco from the dealer. For the external, I'm limited to one that will work with PWM, so I know Walbro is out. I think Bosch has one, and Aeromotive. I'll stick with the well known brands and avoid the Amazon "Mostlucky" and "Happyplus" brands!
 
Anyone know of an aftermarket access panel door made to convert the rear of a suburban deck so getting to the internal pump is easier? My 87 Suburban pump went bad a few years back with about 38 gallons of fuel in it and I had no where to put the fuel to pull the tank and I ended up very carefully cutting a hole above the tank with a very short jig saw blade. Probably was not the smartest thing I have ever done. I didn't get the hole right on the first try and had to cut more than I started with and the cover ended up being kinda botched because of that. A kit with including a template, a cover larger than the needed hole and a ring to mount to the body to mount the cover to cleanly would be a nice upgrade for many of us and make it much easier to do an on-road repair in the future. Seems like it would have been easy for GM to add that in at the start.....????
 
I ran an external Frame mounted pump at first, but it was noisy and temperamental. Now I’m running an EP 381 in the tank like stock and it’s 1000 times better. I do dread changing it when it goes out though.
 
I ran an external Frame mounted pump at first, but it was noisy and temperamental. Now I’m running an EP 381 in the tank like stock and it’s 1000 times better. I do dread changing it when it goes out though.

I swapped to EFI tanks on my Dad's 57 Chevy and 70 El Camino for the same reason.
 
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