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In the middle of my axle swap; hmm

rcpd34

rcpd34

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I'm in the middle (ok 25% mark) of my axle swap. I just pulled the 14BFF out of the donor truck. Damn that sucker is heavy! I'm gonna swap over to disc while it's out of the truck. How do I tell which rear I have; older or newer type? I' need to order brake parts.

IMG_1650[1].JPG
 
That looks like the older type. The newer one has more cooling fins on the housing. Get you disk brake brackets from Diy4x. One beefy piece!!
 
I already got the brackets; and I did get them from DIY4X4. I just wasn't sure on what year brakes to order. Looks like I need to pull the axles out of the housing then the drum should come off right?
 
rcpd34 said:
I already got the brackets; just wasn't sure on what year brakes to order. Looks like I need to pull the axles out of the housing then the drum should come off right?
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Once the shafts are out you need an axle nut socket for a D60 and you have to take a nut off. Then the drum will come off.
 
You can use a hammer and chisel/screwdriver to remove the axle nut. A socket would be good for assembly so you can torque it properly
 
The drum is held on the back of the hub with the wheel studs. You'll actually need to pull the whole hub/drum assembly off and press out the wheel studs. You do that by pulling the axle and taking the hub nuts off as mentioned.

You actually have to pull the hub to get the backing plate off and put the caliper brackets on anyway. The new rotor will go back on the same way the drum came off.

As far as year model goes, the rotors and pads were the same on 3/4 tons from 73-87. The calipers are the same other than the brake line fittings so the year wont really matter on those as long as you get the correct brake lines to match.
 
Ok; since I'm putting new rotors on, I shouldn't have to fool with pressing the studs out right? I think I bought a axle nut/hub socket about 25 yrs ago; back when I wrenched my own stuff. The trick is to find it. I'm getting too old for this stuff... :whistle:
 
No you'll still need to pop the studs out unless you got new ones. The rotors are held onto the hub by the studs. You need to remove the drums from the hubs and replace them with the rotors in the same spot.
 
Yeah, you're going to have to take the studs out no matter what. Its the only way the drums are coming off and rotors going on.
 
Leave a lugnut partly threaded and pop it with a hammer. It'll push right through. The just use a hammer or air hammer from the inside to reinstall.
 
Z71paramedic said:
Leave a lugnut partly threaded and pop it with a hammer. It'll push right through. The just use a hammer or air hammer from the inside to reinstall.
Click to expand...

That's exactly what I was hoping to hear. Hopefully, I'll get to it tomorrow.

Thanks!
 
I'd pick up some mid 70's gm truck front calipers from a wrecking yard, then use them as cores or flush and re-use them...of if you need emergency brakes the 76-78 cadillac eldorado rear calipers work "okay" from what I hear. Just gotta keep them adjusted properly.

The difference is going to be SAE vs Metric for the brake lines...but if you buy new lines it pretty much doesnt matter anymore.

plus you're saving some weight doing the disc vs drum conversion!
 
Got the drum off, hub off and the studs out. Brake parts fell out when the drum was pulled; obviously had no working rear brakes. Shaft look perfect, but I may need some new bolts as these were on stupid tight. Off to the parts store for new rotors, calipers pads and lines.

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Picking up the brake parts tomorrow. Got the last two sets of loaded calipers for $18 each! Wish I coulda got more at that price. Is there an easy way to determine the gearing in the rear while I have it out?
 
Got all the new parts. Just a hair over $400 for all new brakes front and back; not too bad. Got the caliper bracket on and will hopefully finish the rear tomorrow. :waytogo:

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It's fun, when you get to this point... :D

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That's sweet. Not sure I'm going to prime and paint mine though...
 
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