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Intake manifold gaskets

JT88K5

JT88K5

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After installing a PF4 on a previously carbureted 400 sbc, I have an oil leak at the back of the intake. Oil is leaking between intake and block. Gaskets supplied from Edelbrock did not have the rubber gasket to cross the valley. Permatex ultra black was used (90% sure, might have been grey), in place of the rubber.

Looking at new intake gasket sets, some include the rubber part for the valley, some don’t. This was the first time I have installed an intake without those rubber gaskets and consequently the first time I had an oil leak afterwards. I will admit I did not dry fit the intake and check the gap prior to running a bead of permatex across the valley. Obviously I didn’t use enough. It had ample time to set as it was 2-3 months before the wiring was completed and the engine was started.

I’m leaning towards getting a gasket set with the rubber end pieces, doing the dab in the corners. Any reason not to use the rubber end pieces? Are they only appropriate for stock intakes and heads?
 
JT88K5 said:
After installing a PF4 on a previously carbureted 400 sbc, I have an oil leak at the back of the intake. Oil is leaking between intake and block. Gaskets supplied from Edelbrock did not have the rubber gasket to cross the valley. Permatex ultra black was used (90% sure, might have been grey), in place of the rubber.

Looking at new intake gasket sets, some include the rubber part for the valley, some don’t. This was the first time I have installed an intake without those rubber gaskets and consequently the first time I had an oil leak afterwards. I will admit I did not dry fit the intake and check the gap prior to running a bead of permatex across the valley. Obviously I didn’t use enough. It had ample time to set as it was 2-3 months before the wiring was completed and the engine was started.

I’m leaning towards getting a gasket set with the rubber end pieces, doing the dab in the corners. Any reason not to use the rubber end pieces? Are they only appropriate for stock intakes and heads?
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I have always used the rubber pieces with a dab on the corners, but I did once use the the silicone bead, but as you mentioned I did dry fit and made sure I made a high enough bead, then let the intake sit on it and squish slightly from the weight but still not touching the side gaskets and let it dry up overnight then tighten the next day for a perfect seal.
 
If your heads, and block have not been decked you can use the rubber gaskets. If any machining has been done you are better off using rtv.

Be fore you condemn the rtv double check the oil sender and distributor, also the valve cover gaskets. I fact as it is a new build you should double check every thing. Oil pan rear main oil galley plugs, any oil cooler connections .......
 
This has been the oil leak from hell. The “reusable” valve cover gaskets leaked, both sides. Tbh they were on and off a few times before they started leaking. I omitted the oil pressure switch as I thought it was leaking. Oil pressure sending unit had oil around the crimp, so I replaced it. Pretty sure it dripped from above onto the sending unit. After removing the old one it didn’t leak with air pressure applied. I had pulled the lower bell housing to check rear main and rear of the oil pan.
All along I just didn’t want to believe it was the intake. I really didn’t want to rip it off and put it on again, so I went after the Ez chit first, most of which wasn’t that Ez. Could have used one of those lifted creepers that were mentioned in another thread recently. I did invest in a top side creeper last year before the engine swap. Highly recommended if you have a lifted rig. Required if you are over 60 with more screws in your back than it takes to mount the dash and gauge cluster in a square.
 
Now I will admit, I am only in my mid 50s, but I haven't used the rubber end seals in 20 years after having one slide out and finding a set cooked to brittleness.
Yes, you have to have a decent eye and/or feel for how tall of a silicone bead is needed. Because I despise excess sealer of any kind.
I have done it either way, run sealer, set intake on and start bolts for alignment, then torque the next morning. Or put it all together and torque it, then finish up all of the details. I never liked to put coolant in or start the engine for at least 2+ hours after installation of the intake.
 
Thinking about it again, if you decide to leave the rubber seals out next time, if you inspect the silicone bead for signs of getting some squish when you initially set the intake on, (use a mirror on the rear) then you can pull it back off immediately and redo if you aren't satisfied. Just wipe it off and reapply.
 
I ordered a set of gaskets that come with the rubber. Once I get everything removed and the mating surfaces cleaned, I’ll use some gasketcinch to glue the gasket to the head then check to see how much of a gap exists in the valley. Then try with the rubber ends on. Depending on how much the rubber lifts the intake, I’ll have some idea of how much those gaskets will get squished. Then make a decision on which way to go before I bolt it on.

Thanks for the info. Always great to get feedback from the CK5 group.
 
Wish they made it in sbc chevy intake end size tube. To dam expensive for suchva small job.
Always goes bad before next use for me. Hardly ever use rtv
 
First time summit has done me wrong. Ordered a felpro 1206 gasket set and a small can of the permatex tacky gasket sealer. Received a set of edelbrock intake gaskets (no rubber end pieces) and a tube of permatex ultra black. :dunno:
After removing the intake, it was obvious where it was leaking. Heads are cleaned up, just need to clean the intake and reassemble. The ultra grey was .09” where it was squished. I picked up a tube of Permatex Right Stuff. No concerns with proceeding without the rubber end pieces. Would like to get this back together tomorrow

1DD9A50A-CAF1-4B4A-BDD4-F1A7EA90FF91.jpeg
 
Right stuff won’t squish out as much as the ultra grey did either…it’s very firm…..I do a 1/4 bead and drop it on
 
JT88K5 said:
First time summit has done me wrong. Ordered a felpro 1206 gasket set and a small can of the permatex tacky gasket sealer. Received a set of edelbrock intake gaskets (no rubber end pieces) and a tube of permatex ultra black. :dunno:
After removing the intake, it was obvious where it was leaking. Heads are cleaned up, just need to clean the intake and reassemble. The ultra grey was .09” where it was squished. I picked up a tube of Permatex Right Stuff. No concerns with proceeding without the rubber end pieces. Would like to get this back together tomorrow

View attachment 505220
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Summit Racing I are still negotiating over how much they owe me over loosing two brake rotors for my D60F.
**** them!
 
OK, in Summits defense, they sent me what I ordered , which was just delivered.

I forgot I talked to Heath@volcano last friday ( was a few drinks in to Good Friday) and asked him to send me what I received yesterday. I ordered from Summit Wednesday after talking to Heath since I didn’t think he got my CC # and didn’t ask for my card when I talked to him (he was in the shop) so I didn’t think he was going to ship until I called him back…. And I neglected to read email.

Kudos to Heath for doing business the old fashion way! Never in todays world would I expect to receive merchandise before it was already paid for.

:surepal::surepal:
 
If you ever watch Engine Masters, those guys swap intakes and stuff like crazy testing stuff on the dyno. Dave Freiburger has some tricks he lives and dies with on gaskets so they don't get leaks. Intake gaskets get greased, China wall is always permatex grey, Valve cover gaskets are sealed to the cover with weatherstrip adhesive, then greased on the surface that seals to the head. Pretty much any paper gasket just gets greased. Those rubber end gaskets are bullshit.
 
Reassembly and testing were performed. Used the Right Stuff, but apparently in the wrong way. New leak drips down the back passenger side, old leak dripped on driver side. Let it sit for an hour and tightened it down. Waited until the next day to add antifreeze.
It’s tough for me to get to get a good bead on the back side. I’m stretched out on my topside creeper just to reach the back of the motor. Gonna give it another shot this week some time.
 
JT88K5 said:
Reassembly and testing were performed. Used the Right Stuff, but apparently in the wrong way. New leak drips down the back passenger side, old leak dripped on driver side. Let it sit for an hour and tightened it down. Waited until the next day to add antifreeze.
It’s tough for me to get to get a good bead on the back side. I’m stretched out on my topside creeper just to reach the back of the motor. Gonna give it another shot this week some time.
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Years and years ago gorilla snot( 3m yellow weathestrip glue) and grease for valve covers, on any valve cover.
Now days I glue tin vc gaskets both sides with a skim coat of rtv. Nice cast aluminum get gasgacinch on the vc side.

Next set of aluminum I might try red and tacky on head side.
 
JT88K5 said:
Reassembly and testing were performed. Used the Right Stuff, but apparently in the wrong way. New leak drips down the back passenger side, old leak dripped on driver side. Let it sit for an hour and tightened it down. Waited until the next day to add antifreeze.
It’s tough for me to get to get a good bead on the back side. I’m stretched out on my topside creeper just to reach the back of the motor. Gonna give it another shot this week some time.
Click to expand...
try setting a loaded 8.1L vortec intake on the motor by your self and in a 3500-hd taller truck and not mess it up .
 
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