Could do a compression test of that cylinder to verify that the valves are seating properly.
CK5
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Intake manifold gaskets
- Thread starter JT88K5
- Start date
After fire up, got some noise going on in there. Little tapping. Shut down. Gonna have to pull the head. Will try to find someone willing to take on the job. Anyone good is busy and booked out several months.
How long did you let it run? The lifter may need a minute to return to normal.
And was it running smoothly besides what you heard?
And was it running smoothly besides what you heard?
Could pull that pushrod and verify that it’s straight - not say’n that there could not be further damage but might be worth checking.
From the looks of your pics ya already got some aftermarket goodies ( aluminum heads, springs and roller tip rockers ) - do you know what type of cam and lifter setup it’s got ?
From the looks of your pics ya already got some aftermarket goodies ( aluminum heads, springs and roller tip rockers ) - do you know what type of cam and lifter setup it’s got ?
Looks like you may have lucked out.
You could throw her back together, do a compression test, then a leak down test if the compression isn’t right.
If both tests come back good, button her up, fire her up, and give the big man upstairs a thank you.
You could throw her back together, do a compression test, then a leak down test if the compression isn’t right.
If both tests come back good, button her up, fire her up, and give the big man upstairs a thank you.
A leak down test will tell you where the damage is, or isn’t for that matter
Hydraulic flat tappet cam 218/218.
Slight chance I compressed the lifter? Only ran it for 10-15 seconds after getting the rag out. Maybe not long enough to pump it up?
Just borrowed a compression tester. If compression is good I’ll run it for a minute and see if it quits down, then pull the pushrod if it don’t.
Wife has been talking to the man upstairs, mostly for me to keep my sanity I think, though she said it was so that I didn’t ruin the motor. Same difference.
Regarding the leak down test. How’s that work? Seems you would need to rotate the motor manually or catch it just right to where the cylinder is building pressure, then wait a few seconds and reset the guage to see if you lost pressure? What does it tell you if you are leaking down? Bent valve right, the same thing as having 20lbs less compression. What am I missing?
Slight chance I compressed the lifter? Only ran it for 10-15 seconds after getting the rag out. Maybe not long enough to pump it up?
Just borrowed a compression tester. If compression is good I’ll run it for a minute and see if it quits down, then pull the pushrod if it don’t.
Wife has been talking to the man upstairs, mostly for me to keep my sanity I think, though she said it was so that I didn’t ruin the motor. Same difference.
Regarding the leak down test. How’s that work? Seems you would need to rotate the motor manually or catch it just right to where the cylinder is building pressure, then wait a few seconds and reset the guage to see if you lost pressure? What does it tell you if you are leaking down? Bent valve right, the same thing as having 20lbs less compression. What am I missing?
My opinion..
That was too short of time from cold start, IMO. And 2nd cold start in many days.
As I asked earlier, was it running ok besides the tick?
If yes, let it run a while.
Cold oil doesn't respond as quickly, obviously. So an additional minute would tell you more.
That was too short of time from cold start, IMO. And 2nd cold start in many days.
As I asked earlier, was it running ok besides the tick?
If yes, let it run a while.
Cold oil doesn't respond as quickly, obviously. So an additional minute would tell you more.
I’m running 15w40 diesel oil as recommended by the builder. It was ~65 degrees today. It seemed to be running as normal on a cold start aside from the tick. Has good oil pressure, ~45-50.
I’m gonna do a compression test… later today. Check the post time. lol. Been watching final x wrestling and enjoying some fine bourbon after the win of getting the rag out. Very happy and hopeful I won’t have to pull the head.
I’m gonna do a compression test… later today. Check the post time. lol. Been watching final x wrestling and enjoying some fine bourbon after the win of getting the rag out. Very happy and hopeful I won’t have to pull the head.
Brown county Ill. Drag racing. War in the woods. Look it it up on utube
Edit: I think that comment was to go in another thread. . It was getting late.
Edit: I think that comment was to go in another thread. . It was getting late.
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The leak down test is initiated with whatever cylinder you’re testing at Bottom Dead Center with both valves closed (as much as they will) may need to pull the valve cover and loosen the rocker arms to ensure closure. And that point you could pull the pull the push rods to, just to see.
Apply air to the cylinder through the hose used on the compression test.
You can expect a little leakage through the rings but the valves should seal tightly.
You’ll have your answer right there.
You may be able to tap the tops of the valves (hit them straight to avoid damaging them) I use a rubber dead blow hammer so my ham fists don’t wreck anything. This will assuredly seat the valves. Do it with air pressure applied.listen for where the air is leaking from, if any.
Report back please
Apply air to the cylinder through the hose used on the compression test.
You can expect a little leakage through the rings but the valves should seal tightly.
You’ll have your answer right there.
You may be able to tap the tops of the valves (hit them straight to avoid damaging them) I use a rubber dead blow hammer so my ham fists don’t wreck anything. This will assuredly seat the valves. Do it with air pressure applied.listen for where the air is leaking from, if any.
Report back please
Even if the the compression is not good it may be as simple as a new valve and/or pushrod. The piston looks fine from your pictures.
It’s been a while…compression test on front 4 cylinders had #1 at 130 with the other 3 at 150. So I pulled the head on that side, had some debris in most of the cylinders. All but one leaked fuel when poured into the intake, wasn’t running through just seeping quickly. Ground the valves and valve seats, it turned out pretty good for using a battery operated drill. 
OK, I really didn’t use a drill, it was done properly with the correct equipment.
Debris seemed to be marking the valves, it seemed to be very fine fibers, slightly charred. The rag I removed didnt seem to be missing much after removing it from the head. Rag was posted earlier.
Weird thing is… on the #6, the valves looked clean. Intake valve on #6 was out about .020”. My theory is that the rag only ended up in #1 and must have visited #6 at some point.
Asking for some advise on reinstalling the heads. Most if not all of the bolts penetrate the lock in the water channels. Looks like the builder used some ptfe pipe sealer there? Also looks like he applied the sealer to the threads in the block or did they just use a small amount on the head bolts? His might help
OK, I really didn’t use a drill, it was done properly with the correct equipment.
Debris seemed to be marking the valves, it seemed to be very fine fibers, slightly charred. The rag I removed didnt seem to be missing much after removing it from the head. Rag was posted earlier.
Weird thing is… on the #6, the valves looked clean. Intake valve on #6 was out about .020”. My theory is that the rag only ended up in #1 and must have visited #6 at some point.
Asking for some advise on reinstalling the heads. Most if not all of the bolts penetrate the lock in the water channels. Looks like the builder used some ptfe pipe sealer there? Also looks like he applied the sealer to the threads in the block or did they just use a small amount on the head bolts? His might help
Clean and dry the bolts and block threads and use Permatex PTFE Thread Sealer or Coppercoat sealer on the bolt threads.
Yep, rtv works well if done right
