I did some steering work and cut out the old intermediate shaft. Now as part of the rebuild it's time to replace it. I just learned the the procedure is to remove the steering gear in order to replace it. I viewed some videos and it seems Chevy later came out with a collapsible shaft to simplify the process. I checked out the old shaft and noticed a couple of plastic pins through it. I wondered if the shaft would collapse if those pins were drilled out. But that's another question. Can anyone tell me if any later model collapsible shaft is compatible with the square bodies. Thanks.
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Intermediate Steering Shaft Question
- Thread starter GaBnn3
- Start date
If you're talking about a 1991, you should be able to use an XJ shaft, the Borgeson or the Chevy Express shaft to upgrade from the rag joint to U-joints. It just doesn't work for columns/boxes older than '79 or so.
Lots of threads on it here, do a search. https://ck5.com/forums/threads/xj-steering-shaft-on-a-78.328959/
With your original I-shaft, the plastic pins should shear in the event of a collision and let it collapse. You can remove the pins, but you need to keep the plastic bushings/sliders intact on the inside (i.e. no torch). I don't remember having to collapse the stock one to remove it from the vehicle, though.
Lots of threads on it here, do a search. https://ck5.com/forums/threads/xj-steering-shaft-on-a-78.328959/
With your original I-shaft, the plastic pins should shear in the event of a collision and let it collapse. You can remove the pins, but you need to keep the plastic bushings/sliders intact on the inside (i.e. no torch). I don't remember having to collapse the stock one to remove it from the vehicle, though.
there is an XJ jeep shaft that many use to improve steering, by eliminating the rag joint. You didn't mention the year you are working with. I believe the 81 up column works with XJ shaft On my 77 this update will not work as the Column is @1" diameter with 41 or 42 splines.
You shouldn't need to remove steering box on any 1967 American or made for America cars and trucks, they should all have a collapsible shaft. Early squares have the T pin that fits in a matching cup at the lower column, this allows enough slip to remove the shaft from the box splines
You shouldn't need to remove steering box on any 1967 American or made for America cars and trucks, they should all have a collapsible shaft. Early squares have the T pin that fits in a matching cup at the lower column, this allows enough slip to remove the shaft from the box splines
For the ones that the XJ shaft wont fit on you can still buy a new u-joint shaft from borgeson. The plastic pins your talking about can either be drilled or burned out.
Thanks all for the input. I was surprised to find the factory procedure is to remove the steering gear. But, that's what the manual says. I was hoping to learn some trick that I could not figure. I will take another look for that T-pin but I am sure there is none. It's pretty straight forward. The steering shaft extends out of the column just enough to fit into the I-shaft coupling. But without the ability to collapse the I-shaft you can't get the coupling onto the steering shaft. This is a design that should not have happened. I will look into the options you mentioned. I also wonder if I would face the same problem with an XJ shaft. I am leaning toward staying with a known item and drilling out the plastic pins, then replacing one with a cotter pin. I don't want to remove the steering gear. I will advise how I resolve the issue. Thanks again.
I have the 2002 G-van one in my '90 K5. Express 3500 with 8.1L application. Nice U-joints, works great. No plastic to melt either. Rock auto sells them so no junkyard trip or worn out parts either.
I’ve never had to remove the steering box to take an intermediate shaft out or to install one.
I looked up a few models on the Rock Auto site but none matched the above pic, so I'm not sure what is compatible. I'd really like to know. But anyway, I already had a new rag joint, original type I-shaft, and lower column bearing from Wolff engineering. So I went with what I had. I managed to get the shaft into the coupling without removing the steering gear because I had the column disassembled. With a helper I extended the steering shaft through the new bearing and collar before the I-shaft coupling, basically doing them at once. I was prepared to use the I-shaft coupling to push the bearing onto the shaft, but the bearing went on easily. The shaft and coupling had been cleaned and greased. There is a bit of play in the coupling giving the option to tap the coupling onto the steering shaft from behind using a hammer. But, from the inside using a dead blow hammer the shaft went right into the coupling. Thank you all for the input.
