CK5
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Is it worth the cost to rebuild a gen1 SBC?

Not really exciting, got a couple things done.

Bung welded in for oil temp and painted.

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Couldnt leave well enough alone

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ARP oil pump stud is a perfect fit with the HV pump

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Decided to make a pickup retainer/brace instead of welding the pickup to the pump.
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Finally got the dipstick figured out. Couldn't tell online whether what I purchased was right, then I received it. Not even close. I think all the other dipsticks are for cars, where the length isn't a big deal. If you haven't considered it, and you have a "short" dipstick now, pop your hood and stand at the front of the core support. Now imagine that the dipstick is at the front corner of the passenger valve cover. FWIW the "ZZ4" (I assume it's just a standard car piece, but is often listed/sold as ZZ4) dipstick ends up in about the same spot as the one in the truck now, except opposite side of the engine.

Did find out that sometime between 1990 and 1997 GM changed the dipstick and tube, at least on the trucks. Both truck dipstick/tube styles are similar, however the "early" style does not use an o-ring to seal the dipstick to the tube. The early/late tubes are not interchangeable, nor are the dipsticks. Additionally it looks like the '97 had a spark plug wire holder integral, probably plastic, all that is left on this one is a serrated piece sticking off the mounting tab.

The truck dipstick I ended up with came off a core engine on the ground, so unsure of year. But same as on a '97 that was still complete.

Oddly (to me), the ZZ4 dipstick tube protrudes into the pan a bit less than the truck one:

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You can see the mounting location and that the ZZ4 dipstick goes forward just past the second from rear valve cover bolt. Trivia: the bolt threads for the dipstick in the picture is 1/4", the one 2" forward is 3/8" or similar.
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Truck dipstick goes straight up a bit more before angling sharply forward:
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...and comes out past the valve cover. And mounts in a different spot (also 1/4" however). This is before I painted it. The dipstick tube must get hot on the trucks for some reason, it had burned off the paint in the bright area, and the dipstick itself is pitted/discolored slightly from heat as well. We'll see how well this clears the header.
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Finally, here you see that all said and done, where the dipstick measures the oil, is the same. Which should be obvious if you think about it.
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Hopefully purchase a new clutch tonight, and some walnut media to blast the paint off the new flywheel surface. Last component I can think of needing, then I have everything needed to start tearing the old engine out of the truck.
 
That's great info, I need to get a dipstick for my sbc in the blazer, I had one of the short deals from Autozone, which sucked.
 
Finally warmed up enough to start screwing around with the truck again. Got it dropped in prior to hunting season (up until 2AM working on it to get it ready) and after dropping it in, wouldn't start. Too tired and busy to dig back into it, just left it sit. Took the time yesterday to dig back into it, sure enough, and luckily, it was the rookie mistake of having the distributor 180* out. Obviously I didn't have the engine at TDC when I dropped it in, but thought it was for some reason. I should know better than to be doing things like that as late as I was.

Anyway, fired right up, needed a tiny bit of adjustment of the distributor to get rid of a slight intermittent miss/pop in the exhaust, and that was it. Ran it for 20 minutes just varying the throttle a bit (there is no explicit break in procedure given for these in terms of initial startup) and cold oil pressure was just a tick over 45PSI on the gauge, and hot it was just a tick under 45PSI on the gauge. Hopefully that means that my thought process was valid, and the higher volume will keep pressure up as the engine RPM's decrease. And that it will have enough excess volume to cover the bearing clearances as they open up when the engine ages.

Now to get the bumper fixed so I can put it back in, and drive the 500 miles of varying throttle/low load that GM recommends. But getting it started was the most important piece.
 
You got your Gen-1 started before me. I plan to start my new crate Gen-1 this week end.
 
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