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Is this 350 still good

If you use the fel pro I linked just rtv in corners block side, basically the seem for rear main cap and the tin to block at timing cover. If you have 4 piece set Gasgasinch for the long areas and same rtv in corners. Make sure pan and timing cover flanges are flat and bolt holes are not coned shaped
 
Looks good?
Also what is the torque spec for oil filter adapter? Also which way to mount? That galley by headers or away?
Does loctite go on the bolts for adapter?

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Might be a right dip stick gasket, How do the neoprene U pieces fit?


You can loctite (blue) the oil filter adapter, also there is a gasket for the Oil filter adapter.
 
Wes Harden said:
Might be a right dip stick gasket, How do the neoprene U pieces fit?


You can loctite (blue) the oil filter adapter, also there is a gasket for the Oil filter adapter.
Click to expand...
Ok...
Do I or should Inuse these cork gaskets or just rtv?
The fro pro instructions didn’t say. Which way is up on these intake gaskets?

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beags86 said:
Intake gaskets don't matter. Ditch those cork ****ers on the end and run a thick bread of gray rtv.
Click to expand...
Ok... thanks
Sorry if these questions are elementary.
This is my first time doing any of this engine work.
Please bear with me... hahahahaha
 
TJ1978 said:
Ok... thanks
Sorry if these questions are elementary.
This is my first time doing any of this engine work.
Please bear with me... hahahahaha
Click to expand...
Everyone learns. Better asking now and getting direction, and not making all the mistakes that we have. Most of us learned this shit the hard way.
 
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Those gaskets are almost always to fat. If the heads have been machined the end gaskets will be to tall and keep your manifold from sealing.
Place the intake on the heads and look at the gap between them. Ideally the gap will parallel top to bottom. Most cases the gap is tight at the bottom and wider at the top. Usually the gasket will cover this, the end gaskets if used will increase the miss match. If the gap has to much angle the intake can be machined or new heads that haven't been milled to correct this.
 
If it is an Edelbrock Intake, read their instructions carefully. It is highly advised to use edelbrocks brand of gaskets and no end gaskets. you do a 1/4" bead of high end RTV and use gascasinch in the right places. I have learned this the hard way.

Also do what @Wes Harden said above first and check your intake fit with no gaskets first. I did not catch what intake you will be running. I do know if you use the rubber or cork end gaskets and fel-pro perma-torque gaskets on and edelbrock intake it will suck oil into the combustion chambers at an alarming rate.
 
Those gaskets you have pictured may work with an edelbrock those are not the Perma-torque style.
 
CharlesC83 said:
If it is an Edelbrock Intake, read their instructions carefully. It is highly advised to use edelbrocks brand of gaskets and no end gaskets. you do a 1/4" bead of high end RTV and use gascasinch in the right places. I have learned this the hard way.

Also do what @Wes Harden said above first and check your intake fit with no gaskets first. I did not catch what intake you will be running. I do know if you use the rubber or cork end gaskets and fel-pro perma-torque gaskets on and edelbrock intake it will suck oil into the combustion chambers at an alarming rate.
Click to expand...
I used fro pro gaskets and RTV only to seal the front and rear
 
I followed this. Other than him using the front and rear gaskets, which I did not. I did it this way. I inches up on the torque. 15-20-25 then finish as edelbrock instructions states
 
Ok..
Should I hold off on these intake plug set until?
Or can I use them now?
Thread sealer liquid of tape?

Should I make a right stuff gasket for the water neck ornuse the supplies oring?

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Normally eddy intake come with all that crap.
Nothing in the box? Might as well put them in.
Tape or liquid will be fine. Your choice.
 
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