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CK5
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Is this 350 still good
- Thread starter TJ1978
- Start date
I found a threaded hole in the block next to my balancer and ground the bolt head to a point and used that for my pointer. It can be anything anywhere, just make sure you verify TDC and mark the balancer where that is in relation to your pointer.
wasted wages
1 ton status
This is not a harmonic balancer installer....
It is a good way to strip out your crankshaft.
Being new at this mistakes will be made. I hope I didn’t screw up too much here.
I put “harmonic balancer install tool” at summit and this was the return. Then on google a bunch of steering wheel installer set came up. Then after trying with this and a bunch of anti seize. It didn’t feel right so I stopped.
I did order the proper tool (after learning this arp thing isn’t what I thought it was) from amazon after wondering why this thing won’t drive the balancer on properly. I stopped and hope I didn’t loose any threads in the crank.
If I did oh well. Shit happens
Also the new water pump from summit doesn’t sit flush across the timing chain cover...the old rusted out one fits nicely.
How do I know th balancer is seated all the way? I looked at my neighbors truck and it’s roughly where mine sits now...
This is the cover I bought. I will get that timing part.
This tool is what I thought the arp thing was. I didn’t know it was not what I thought it was until after I tried using it..
The balancer will bottom out on the crank gear. With the correct tool it will go on easier until it is bottomed out. The drive nut on tool is large 1 5/16" for most tools. A pluming pipe wrench will work in a pinch. You need to hold the center threaded with a wrench, 5/8" while you turn nut. light oil on threads, a small bit of clean grease between nut skinny washer and fat washers.
You will need to find an aftermarket timing pointer to go with your cover, Summit may have listing for it on cover page. Don't get the 6" pointer you'll need the 7"- 8" one
You will need to find an aftermarket timing pointer to go with your cover, Summit may have listing for it on cover page. Don't get the 6" pointer you'll need the 7"- 8" one
Shit... sure would be nice if one of you guys were local... hahaha.. I do appreciate all the help, nonetheless
Back in the days before 1968 or so,SBC had no drilled hole or threads in the crank snout..the balancer was just a tight press fit,didn't need anything to keep it on..(well,in most cases,I saw a few fly off during high rpm burnouts !)..
To install the balancer on those early engines,most mechanics just used a heavy sledge hammer with a block of wood between it and the balancer..you could actually hear when it was fully bottomed out,the sound of the hammer whacks would go "kuh-kuh-kuh- KOH..then you stopped,before you mashed the thrust surfaces on the rear main bearing..
To install the balancer on those early engines,most mechanics just used a heavy sledge hammer with a block of wood between it and the balancer..you could actually hear when it was fully bottomed out,the sound of the hammer whacks would go "kuh-kuh-kuh- KOH..then you stopped,before you mashed the thrust surfaces on the rear main bearing..
I contemplated just doing that. I’m only about 1/4, 1/2 away from the balancer being seated.. but...
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The timing chain cover is either too fat?
The new water pump doesn’t sit flush against the block.
The old one doesn’t either but better than the summit water pump.
If you take a level between the ears of the pumps and measure to back of the propeller. The new one is 7/8 and the and the old is about 1”....
Neither of them fit flush to the block
How can I fix this?
I’m thinking that since this a early 90’s crate it needs the long style pump. I have “1969 c10” for the vehicle on summits site. Which I think is causing the issue here.
I looked at neighbors water pump and it sticks out far from the timing cover like this one should.
So I think I need the long style water pump to fit this engine properly
The new water pump doesn’t sit flush against the block.
The old one doesn’t either but better than the summit water pump.
If you take a level between the ears of the pumps and measure to back of the propeller. The new one is 7/8 and the and the old is about 1”....
Neither of them fit flush to the block
How can I fix this?
I’m thinking that since this a early 90’s crate it needs the long style pump. I have “1969 c10” for the vehicle on summits site. Which I think is causing the issue here.
I looked at neighbors water pump and it sticks out far from the timing cover like this one should.
So I think I need the long style water pump to fit this engine properly
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Water pump on my blazer...
I think I need the long style or the ones with these types of “ears” to mount to the block?
I think I need the long style or the ones with these types of “ears” to mount to the block?
From neighbors 350 on my block
Got the correct pump...what size pipe plug goes in that hole?
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I bet 1st pump was a short pump.
That timing pointer looked like it would work. You didn't happen to check the damper TDC mark while cover was off ?
That timing pointer looked like it would work. You didn't happen to check the damper TDC mark while cover was off ?
I don’t think so. All I did was line up the dots in the sprockets to 6 and 12 o’clock
Yeah tat is correct. I normally test fit the damper to check the timing marks while cam dots are lined up. So I know the mark is correct. GM used at least 2 different positions on the 350. 12 o'clock and 2 o'clock. plus if reusing an old damper is good to check it hasn't slipped the outer ring.
Which of these get pipe plugs?
The top one is usually for the 5/8 to heater, unless you use the one on the water pump. The lower on can be plugged if you do not use the drivers side of head for temperature sender. Using the picture with both taped up.
