CK5
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Is this 350 still good

yeah it will probably line up 1/2 grove off

Plus iirc the 4th pulley is needed to line up. on e of the middle will be empty

Oreillys has a 3 groove Long waterpump crank pulley. So I’ll probably just go that route instead of this two piece 4 groove pulley set up
 
So the harmonic balancer tool arrived today, with this tool I got about 1/2 turn further on the crank snout. I think the balancer is fully seated. I can’t get it to go any further on the crank. I’m trying but hesitatant to really lay into it. I’ve read people having the threaded part part snap in the crank

Being used here FF to 4:02

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yes the brackets I recognize look like left alt and right A/c. These brackets on earlier sbc came with short water pump and matching balancer. I unsure if the bracket you have are for short or long water pump. The 69 C10 is kinda of odd with ram horns, by this time the 350 in cars had log manifolds and left hand alts. My advise put as much as can together and check the pulley alignments,
and go from there.

edit I can't recall any 350 w/o the bolt holes in the heads.


GM used the rams horns up until 1972...in '73 they started using the "log" style manifolds..they did use a RH alternator in '69 (and '67-68 too I think),after that they started putting the alternator on the passenger side ,then in '73 they switched to the "long" water pump..trucks used the short water pump up until 1972..

I will need to get a "long style" water pump and the pulleys for one and the crank if I ever put one of the SBC I have in my pickup--both engines were set up for the short water pump,and only had the crank pulley on them when I got them..it can become a nightmare trying to find them individually and have them all "jive" and align properly..|

Sadly the chances of coming across a "matching set" still on an engine at a salvage yard is slim to none around here and they would be unlikely to sell them and "break up" a complete engine..
Aftermarket ones are expensive and usually wont work with any OEM pulleys,your more or less forced to buy the complete setup..

I remember when I had my '69 GTO and I put P/S in it,I stupidly didn't buy all the pulleys & brackets off the donor Grand Prix at the junkyard..
I ended up with an alternator belt that loved to leap off above 3000 rpms because the pulley grooves from the WP to crank pulley were "off" enough to let it come off ,being at an angle..never did find a "correct" pulley for it either..
I ended up running the altenator off only the WP pulley,which led to belt screeching and slipping under hard acceleration..but at least they belts stayed on!..

I cringe when I think of how many "rare" pulley setups I either scrapped or gave away--I had a complete setup off a '69 K10 Suburban that I shouldn't have left on the engine when I sold it,since they were useless for the car it was going into..:doah:
...I searched thru the ones I have left and I only have one single groove WP pulley for a short pump,and a few crank pulleys..

True definition of junk:--something you don't need--till you throw it away..:surepal:
 
Yeah it is back and forth on the ram log style manifolds. The 2 66 Chevelle's I've had both had logs, and driver side alts. My wife's grandfather's 68 Caprice classic, had ram horns driver side alt pass side ac
Don't remember the water pump on either, I can check 1 Chevelle, Caprice is gone.
 
I'm a little late into this, but I've got one of those goodwrench engines in my truck. Turns out there's a problem on some of them w/ the rocker studs pulling out (they're pressed in, not threaded). I had several come out on mine. Think it's an 882? I ended up replacing w/ some factory replacement summit heads, gtg after that.

Keep an eye on them. Engine didn't have 1k miles on it. Went through setting valve lash and it was quiet for a bit, then got some valve noise shortly after. After looking at it I realized what was happening.
 
We had more than one SBC in an old GM vehicle come in the junkyard clattering and skipping.and the owners decided to junk them,thinking they needed a camshaft,valve job,etc..
(Most 307's and 305's did end up needing a cam,but 350's didn't seem to eat lobes that often)..

We took the rocker covers off and started them up..
One engine actually had a rocker arm pull thru the ball pivot,it fell on the ground when the valve cover was lifted off!...another one off a junk engine fixed that!--and several other rockers were badly worn where they rub against the pivot ball,and were ready to do the same,so we swapped good used ones on it..it ran good again once they were replaced and adjusted..engine had a ton of sludge in the heads ,which probably caused the issue..

One of the other engines had 3 rocker arms studs pulling out,the adjusting nuts on the rockers had been tightened until they bottomed out and the valves still clattered...
We took off the rockers and pounded the studs back down,then drilled a 1/8" hole thru the head and stud and put a roll pin in them...that engine went in one of the yard trucks we delivered parts with and ran great for 3+ years before we took it off the road..
 
I'm a little late into this, but I've got one of those goodwrench engines in my truck. Turns out there's a problem on some of them w/ the rocker studs pulling out (they're pressed in, not threaded). I had several come out on mine. Think it's an 882? I ended up replacing w/ some factory replacement summit heads, gtg after that.

Keep an eye on them. Engine didn't have 1k miles on it. Went through setting valve lash and it was quiet for a bit, then got some valve noise shortly after. After looking at it I realized what was happening.
How can I check to see if mine are the same ones?
 
there is a 7 or 8 digit number cast into the heads between springs, the last 3 numbers are the one's we are talking about
 
I may be wrong on the head casting, it's been a few years and they went into the dumpster.
 
I can’t afford it now. These heads will have to work for a bit. Assuming the engine even works after I put it back together.
 
33417369, not a performance head. 76cc chambers good for the crap fuel at the pumps. Heavy casting, also good. run'em
 
@TJ1978 I am sorry that I wasn't paying attention here. I wish that you would have sent me a message.
Your pullies are for a short water pump, you already know that.
If you go with a long water pump, and use an engine driven fan, then it will be too far into the fan shroud.
Some timing covers, when combined with certain short water pumps, will rub each other. The stamping of some timing covers got oversized, and the water pump housings got fat, too.

If you use the alternator bracket that you have, it won't align with the pulley on a long water pump.

I have had a few of these vintage trucks, but 8 have one parked in my garage for pictures, even though I don't have an A/C compressor on it right now.

You need 3 grooves on the crankshaft pulley, 2 on the water pump.

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