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Is this possible with 10 bolts?

C

clancy84

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Im in the process of evolving my blazer from stock ride height w/33's 10 bolts etc. to 3/4 ton axles, 4" lift and 37" iroks(lots of trimming). so heres my question: is it possible to take the gear set and posi from my current rear end (10 bolt 4.10,w/eaton) and putting that assembly in the front axle housing? its an 84 with a 6.2 i figured it was possible and them i started thinking about spline counts, and c-clips.

--Scott
 
Yes you can swap 10 bolt parts front to rear and vice versa.

Keep in mind that with 37" Iroks you are going to be straining the hell out of the 10 bolts. Iroks measure close to a true 37" height and are pretty aggresive.

Harley
 
If that's the (stock) gov-lock rearend, I'd imagine that would make for some SCARY steering in 4wd.
 
As long as he isn't keeping the rear 10b he should be fine... there are people on here running 42's with a 14b in the rear and a 10b up front with minimal problems.
 
I have heard that you can modify the govlocks for frontend use. A guy from the Vegas area took the springs of something out of his gov-lock for the 10 bolt front. He said it acted more like a normal locker. He said he would get 3/4 of a turn on a front tire and then it would lock in like a normal locker.

I saw his truck in action in Moab and it did well.

As far as running 42's on a 10 bolt front you are just asking for problems. I have watched 35" and 37" tires bust 10 bolt front axleshafts. Granted alot of that is situation, terrain, and driving style. But 42's just magnify that problem greatly. 42's would be wicked hard on ball joints and axleshafts.

Harley
 
i tried that rear Gov-Loc thing in the front, it really wouldn't lock up until i got the wheels spinning, then it snapped in kinda hard, i didn't like it, removed shortly after. There was really no problem with steering either, you could hear it kinda working, but nothing like a welded or "locked" carrier.

BTW, welder front carriers REALLY suck as well, i do not recommend that either.
 
If its a EATON POSI, cool. If its a Eaton Gov-Lock, I wouldnt waste my time.

Oh and my 10B has 42's on it for along time with no problems.
 
yeah its an eaton posi (has spring load packs). ive got a D 60 for the rear all ready to go with a detroit in it, so hopefully few worries there.

ok so now that it is possible, how do i get it out of the rear end housing? i know how an open gear set comes out, but seems to be very little room for getting a c clip out past the springs.

And is there anything that absolutely needs to be replaced? pinion crush sleve? can i get away with reusing bearings, shims, seals etc?

--Scott
 
Hossbaby50 said:
I have heard that you can modify the govlocks for frontend use. A guy from the Vegas area took the springs of something out of his gov-lock for the 10 bolt front. He said it acted more like a normal locker. He said he would get 3/4 of a turn on a front tire and then it would lock in like a normal locker.

I saw his truck in action in Moab and it did well.

As far as running 42's on a 10 bolt front you are just asking for problems. I have watched 35" and 37" tires bust 10 bolt front axleshafts. Granted alot of that is situation, terrain, and driving style. But 42's just magnify that problem greatly. 42's would be wicked hard on ball joints and axleshafts.

Harley
Click to expand...


I wheel with him, his name is Daryll. He runs 36" Iroks and wheels every weekend. Hard core too, I know he's done the Rubicon and Moab and have seen him wheel all over Vegas. I believe he has only snapped one u-joint in his front end in like a few years of wheelin it. His front does lock up pretty good.
 
Yep that is him. He is a cool guy that wheels his junk pretty damn hard. I met him up in Moab last year at Blazer Bash. I know he snapped an axleshaft while he was there the first or second day. Either on Pritchet or Behind the Rocks or something.

Harley.
 
clancy84 said:
yeah its an eaton posi (has spring load packs). ive got a D 60 for the rear all ready to go with a detroit in it, so hopefully few worries there.

ok so now that it is possible, how do i get it out of the rear end housing? i know how an open gear set comes out, but seems to be very little room for getting a c clip out past the springs.

And is there anything that absolutely needs to be replaced? pinion crush sleve? can i get away with reusing bearings, shims, seals etc?

--Scott
Click to expand...


Cool.

Check the backlash and pattern. Take the rear end apart. Cross shaft pin, C clips, axles and the carrier. Remember the shims from the left and right side. To get the carrier out I use 2 BIG prybars. Then take the pinion out, along with the bearings and races. The pinion shims are behind the bearing, so you dont have to worry about them. Mark the caps on the front axle, Strip the front end of everything, races and all. Put the races fromt the rear in, put the pinion in, id get a new crush sleeve, put the carrier in with the correct shims from the rear. Check the backlash and pattern, it shouldnt change. Re-assemble the front axle.

One thing im curious about is, is the posi the same for the front and rear axles? Are they the same spline count? 28 in the rear, whats the front?
 
Im not sure, thats one of things i was orriginally asking about. i thought they went up to a 30 spline later on like 89 or something like that.
it the original front axle from 1984, 3.42 gears open carrier, its a facorty diesel im not sure wether they would change spline count based on it being a diesel.

--Scott
 
dyeager535 said:
If that's the (stock) gov-lock rearend, I'd imagine that would make for some SCARY steering in 4wd.
Click to expand...
What's wrong with a Gov-lock in front? They are totally streetable in the rear because they are an open diff until you really get a wheel spinning. Are you saying you would get a jerk in the steering wheel when it locks up?

I know some people have done this.
 
If you started to spin a front tire fast enough to engage a govlock you are probably going to hear alot of pops as you break axleshafts. Front axleshafts don't take shock loading very well with 35" tires or bigger.

Harley
 
Threshold for lockup in the gov-lock is 100RPM wheel difference. Front wheels have a much larger differential in wheel speed when turning than the rear. Not to mention, it only works under 20MPH.

Even barring that, as was suggested, every time it locked up you would shock load the front axles, and you'd feel it in the steering. When I spin my wheels offroad, wheel speed quickly exceeds 20MPH, so you'd lose traction over that wheel speed. Again shock loading comes into play, if you let up slightly on the gas but don't completely let up in that situation, and you are still spinning a tire, it will lock up again. It's just not consistent enough for something in the front IMO. Kind of like what people say with a locker and going around corners and getting on the gas being unusual and taking a bit of getting used to, except unlocking and locking at various "random" points the whole way through the turn.

You don't feel the gov-lock in the rear (usually) because you aren't steering with it. You don't meet the lock conditions in normal driving. You either corner above 20MPH (freeway on-ramp) or you don't turn sharp enough to meet the 100RPM wheel differential threshold. But get on the gas when it's wet out, going around a sharp corner from a stop, and you will feel it.
 
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I have a Eaton posi up front, just feather the gas and you wont have any problems in ice/snow.
 
dirtwarrior17 said:
As long as he isn't keeping the rear 10b he should be fine... there are people on here running 42's with a 14b in the rear and a 10b up front with minimal problems.
Click to expand...

If these people do exist, I can tell you for certain they ain't doing much fourwheeling................
 
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