if your coming up to 0 and the exhaust is just closing, then the intake should start opening. That is the exhaust stroke, you need to go one more revolution of the crank to get back to 0 and be on firing stroke.
CK5
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*it runs! but.....new cam and heads in 350 sounds good in park but no power*it runs!*
- Thread starter down4thakrown
- Start date
thats what i did and they both stayed closed until i passed 0 then the intake started opening....
Read the above post again. You need to remove the dizzy and rotate the engine 1 revolution ( back to 0 0 now reinstall the dizzy with it pointing to #1 cyclinder. The engine needs to be on compression. No valves will move as you go passed "0".
this is when i first put the dist. in...ive taken out and redropped the dist. and tried a differant dist. more times then i can count...im just bringin this up to help me maybe figure out if timing gears were installed correctly.....when i dropped dist. in every other time i would put my finger in spark plug hole and have the girl friend bump the starter until i felt air coming out the hole and stoped it close to 0 and turned it by wrench til it hit zero...
I was refering to your last three posts where you said it was at 0 and as you went by 0 the intake started to open. No valve movement is what you want. If the valve are moving, you can't be at top dead center on #1.
If it coming up to the compression stroke the next valve to open is the exhaust, if its the intake you 180 out might be the cam
alrite ill have to check that out...just gota get sumbody over here to turn motor while i watch....but let me get this straight....so as the piston is comin up on tdc/ 0 on timing tab....ans if my finger is in the spark plug hole......and im feeling air pass by my finger...no valves should be moving(which would make sense cause there will be no compression...) and once it passes 0...the next valve on #1 cylinder that should open is the exhaust valve.....correct? and do you guys got an ruff idea when the valve should start to open...like where the timing mark on the balancer should be? i really do appreciate all the info and help you guys are given me...and thank you for bein patient with me.....
Yup next one should be exhaust, it should open a 1/4 of the stroke of the crank because when the cylinder goes boom it goes down, power stroke, when it comes up it expels the burnt fuel out. the next down stroke would be intake sucks in the fuel/air
how many degrees on the timing mark u think a 1/4 stroke is? or would it be like a 1/4 turn of balancer...
1/4 of balencer or so
and its one full down stroke the valve should start to open when the piston is coming up
rite on man, thanx alot.. im definetly goin to look into this. so after about a 1/4 turn of balancer the piston should be comin up and the intake valve should be opening? correct?
from 0 to bottom of power is half turn of crank. full turn will be end of exhaust and start of intake. turn and 1/2 is compression. second 0 is top dead center. #1 should fire to start the cycle again.
so 1 full turn and exhaust should be closing and intake should be starting to open....another half turn and intake is closed and then compression.... correct...sorry bout the confusion...just tryin to get it straight...
so 1 full turn and exhaust should be closing and intake should be starting to open....another half turn and intake is closed and then compression.... correct...sorry bout the confusion...just tryin to get it straight...
now you have it. with it a 0 on #1 at TDC the plug will fire 1/2 turn of crank is power stroke. the next 1/2 turn is exhaust stroke. you are back at 0. #1 intake opens and closes at 1/2 turn. starts compression stroke is now back to 0.
got it! kew thx fellas! let you know what happens tomarrow...
let you know what happens tomarrow...fulltilt
Registered Member
theres alot of good info here, but i'm currious who installed the cam?
was it installed straight up, advanced, or retarded, and were the crank and cam gear dots lined up
were the valves adjusted right
the boys are right about the #1 valves at rest when its at tdc
heres how i would go about it
first make your life easier, remove all the spark plugs so you can spin the motor over buy hand or rig up a push botton switch and hook one lead to the little termanal on the starter and the other to the + on the battery
first put the dis and mark #1 on the houseing
pull # 1 plug and crank over the engine till you feel pressure comeing out of the hole, and check the position of the balancer it will be getting close to the 0 on the tab line them up, also the valves should be at rest at this position
reset all the valves, back all the nuts off the rockers
with the engines #1 at tdc set the following valves
exaust 1 3 4 8
intake 1 2 5 7
spin the engine over 1 complete revolution this will bring #6 to tdc and set the following valves, put you finger in the #6 plug hole to be sure
exaust 2 5 6 7
intake 3 4 6 8
to get the proper lash rotate the pushrod with your finger while tightening the nut untill you feel drag, when you feel drag tighten the nut 1/2 a turn and your done, now i know some guys will say 3/4 or 1 turn but i always do 1/2
now spin the motor over 1 full revolution and you will be back at #1 tdc
now drop in the distributer and line the rotor up with the mark you put on the housing, don't worry about it seating into the oil pump,but make sure you have room to avance or retart the timeing, now just hold onto the distributer and bump the motor over slowly till it drops in
now bump the motor over till its at #1 tdc and see if the rotor and your mark line up, if they do your good if not try again
now hook everything back up and fire the motor and run it at 2000 rpm for 20 min, you can set your timeing pretty close for the 20 min if you have a timeing gun with a dile on it, set it some where between 30 and 38 where ever it runs smoothest, and keep an eye on your temp and oil gauges, i normally run a large household fan in front of the rad at this time to help move some air to keep it cool, i also run it with the rad cap off to avoid an air lock and over heating
even after you have broke the cam in i would still go back and set the valves
now set your inital timeing ( vacume advance disconected and vacume hose pluged), set the idle at 500-600 rpm set the timeing between 8-16 now this all depends, some engines like lots and some don't, but 8 -10 is a good place to start, now here is where alot of people would say your done, but not really.
here is where you really need a timeing gun with a dile on it, with the vac advance still disconected check the timeing while someone reves the motor up to see at what rpm all of the mechanical advance (weightds and springs under the rotor) is completely in meaning you are not gaining advance as you gain rpm, i generaly like to have it all in at 1700-2200, if you are not in that range you need to install lighter springs on the weights till you are
now you are ready to set the total timeing( vac advance hooked up), now since i see that you have spent some cash on the top end i would go and get an adjustable vac advance if yoiu don't already have one
hook the vac advance up and check your timeing again with someone reving up the motor and you checking the timeing untill you are no longer gaining advance, now here is where the adjustable advance comes in
your total might be at 60 and the motor might start to detonate not good
with an adjustable vac advance you stick in a tinny allen wrench into the vac advance vacume line inlet and turn it in on direction to increase it and the other to decrease it, i would set it at 38 to be safe to start
by now i hope the engine is running like it should so you can take it for a drive, if you don't hear any pinging aka detonation under load your ok and can still add a bit more vac advance untill you start to hear the pinging, when you hear the pinging back it off 2-4 degrees, just remember that the only reason the vac advance it there is for gas milege, cause when you mash the gas there is no vacume to pull in the vac advance
i hope i have helped you and others out and your truck is running tip top, this is just my method, and there are many out there, but it has worked for me
was it installed straight up, advanced, or retarded, and were the crank and cam gear dots lined up
were the valves adjusted right
the boys are right about the #1 valves at rest when its at tdc
heres how i would go about it
first make your life easier, remove all the spark plugs so you can spin the motor over buy hand or rig up a push botton switch and hook one lead to the little termanal on the starter and the other to the + on the battery
first put the dis and mark #1 on the houseing
pull # 1 plug and crank over the engine till you feel pressure comeing out of the hole, and check the position of the balancer it will be getting close to the 0 on the tab line them up, also the valves should be at rest at this position
reset all the valves, back all the nuts off the rockers
with the engines #1 at tdc set the following valves
exaust 1 3 4 8
intake 1 2 5 7
spin the engine over 1 complete revolution this will bring #6 to tdc and set the following valves, put you finger in the #6 plug hole to be sure
exaust 2 5 6 7
intake 3 4 6 8
to get the proper lash rotate the pushrod with your finger while tightening the nut untill you feel drag, when you feel drag tighten the nut 1/2 a turn and your done, now i know some guys will say 3/4 or 1 turn but i always do 1/2
now spin the motor over 1 full revolution and you will be back at #1 tdc
now drop in the distributer and line the rotor up with the mark you put on the housing, don't worry about it seating into the oil pump,but make sure you have room to avance or retart the timeing, now just hold onto the distributer and bump the motor over slowly till it drops in
now bump the motor over till its at #1 tdc and see if the rotor and your mark line up, if they do your good if not try again
now hook everything back up and fire the motor and run it at 2000 rpm for 20 min, you can set your timeing pretty close for the 20 min if you have a timeing gun with a dile on it, set it some where between 30 and 38 where ever it runs smoothest, and keep an eye on your temp and oil gauges, i normally run a large household fan in front of the rad at this time to help move some air to keep it cool, i also run it with the rad cap off to avoid an air lock and over heating
even after you have broke the cam in i would still go back and set the valves
now set your inital timeing ( vacume advance disconected and vacume hose pluged), set the idle at 500-600 rpm set the timeing between 8-16 now this all depends, some engines like lots and some don't, but 8 -10 is a good place to start, now here is where alot of people would say your done, but not really.
here is where you really need a timeing gun with a dile on it, with the vac advance still disconected check the timeing while someone reves the motor up to see at what rpm all of the mechanical advance (weightds and springs under the rotor) is completely in meaning you are not gaining advance as you gain rpm, i generaly like to have it all in at 1700-2200, if you are not in that range you need to install lighter springs on the weights till you are
now you are ready to set the total timeing( vac advance hooked up), now since i see that you have spent some cash on the top end i would go and get an adjustable vac advance if yoiu don't already have one
hook the vac advance up and check your timeing again with someone reving up the motor and you checking the timeing untill you are no longer gaining advance, now here is where the adjustable advance comes in
your total might be at 60 and the motor might start to detonate not good
with an adjustable vac advance you stick in a tinny allen wrench into the vac advance vacume line inlet and turn it in on direction to increase it and the other to decrease it, i would set it at 38 to be safe to start
by now i hope the engine is running like it should so you can take it for a drive, if you don't hear any pinging aka detonation under load your ok and can still add a bit more vac advance untill you start to hear the pinging, when you hear the pinging back it off 2-4 degrees, just remember that the only reason the vac advance it there is for gas milege, cause when you mash the gas there is no vacume to pull in the vac advance
i hope i have helped you and others out and your truck is running tip top, this is just my method, and there are many out there, but it has worked for me
with the engines #1 at tdc set the following valves
exaust 1 3 4 8
intake 1 2 5 7
spin the engine over 1 complete revolution this will bring #6 to tdc and set the following valves, put you finger in the #6 plug hole to be sure
exaust 2 5 6 7
intake 3 4 6 8
I know I nitpick everyone but make sure you say this is for a hydralic only. If you adjust a solid with way then adjust by EO IC you will find over half of your rockers are loose. That method you listed is for very mild cams.
exaust 1 3 4 8
intake 1 2 5 7
spin the engine over 1 complete revolution this will bring #6 to tdc and set the following valves, put you finger in the #6 plug hole to be sure
exaust 2 5 6 7
intake 3 4 6 8
I know I nitpick everyone but make sure you say this is for a hydralic only. If you adjust a solid with way then adjust by EO IC you will find over half of your rockers are loose. That method you listed is for very mild cams.
ive already redjusted the valves.....there were alittle on the loose side....i just did one at a time...like spun engine for each valve..and watched the valves til they stoped movin and adjusted it.....ive dropped the 2 distributors so many times i cant even count...ive had 3 differant people come over to see if ihad it in right and it was right every time....soooo...im sure the dist. aint the problem....i know the rocker nut that was rubbing rocker had alot to do with it...now i just want to make sure cam was installed right..
every thing checked out ok....both valves closed at tdc.....exhaust started opeing a little over 1/3 turn or half of balancer or sumwhere around there... when it came back to 0* intake started opening.......then shut....then compression all the way back to tdc/0* ...so it seems like cam was installed correctly...dist. look right too...so im just think it was the rocker arm nut F****** me the whole time.......atleast i really hope....
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