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Jolene - 1965 Chevy Impala Cruiser

We pulled the windshield to replace it and found a bit of rust over the winter, but it had been too cold to treat it. Yesterday was finally a warm enough day so we cleaned it up and started. Of course Mariah had to go with when Athena was inside the car applying tape.

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You mentioned a disc brake conversion. Just fyi, I have a 64 vette with drum brakes (no disc brakes in 64) and a 67 with 4 wheel discs. The drum brake 64 car stops every bit as well as the 67 disc brake car. I understand (at least for vettes) their performance is very similar until the drum brakes get excessively hot (towing, steep mountains, roadracing). So you might wanna throw those dollars somewhere else, unless you have a need for (or just prefer the look of) disc brakes. A dual reservoir master is safer tho.
 
I agree the dual reservoir. I like front disc brakes. My first 66 Chevelle had front drums. Well maintained brakes with asbestos shoes. I had to leave lots of room in front on the freeways, the modern cars will stop faster. My bil gave me a ration of crap for being slow when we'd caravan to dinner at times.
I up dated to 71 Chevelle disc brakes, and a world of difference, I could then leave him sitting way behind on our adventures
 
You mentioned a disc brake conversion. Just fyi, I have a 64 vette with drum brakes (no disc brakes in 64) and a 67 with 4 wheel discs. The drum brake 64 car stops every bit as well as the 67 disc brake car. I understand (at least for vettes) their performance is very similar until the drum brakes get excessively hot (towing, steep mountains, roadracing). So you might wanna throw those dollars somewhere else, unless you have a need for (or just prefer the look of) disc brakes. A dual reservoir master is safer tho.
There is more to disc than stopping power, getting a 4-drum system adjusted evenly and working right is far more labor, then the auto adjusters are problematic. Disc brakes automatically adjust as they operate and wear down. I like the GM front disc, rear drum approach from the 70s-90s. Easy parking brakes with the rear drums but much better brakes on the front that do 70+% of the work.
 
There is more to disc than stopping power, getting a 4-drum system adjusted evenly and working right is far more labor, then the auto adjusters are problematic. Disc brakes automatically adjust as they operate and wear down. I like the GM front disc, rear drum approach from the 70s-90s. Easy parking brakes with the rear drums but much better brakes on the front that do 70+% of the work.

Also stopping longevity. My '69 Impala has 4 wheel drums, they work great... for a short amount of time. An emergency stop from 80+ mph is all fine and dandy until you get down to around 20 mph or so, then they start going away quickly. My '70 has factory front discs and they will haul the car down right quick, and repeatedly.
 
We pulled the original rear glass and reset it properly. It appeared to have been installed with plumbers putty. It took two trips out as the glass guy forgot the butyl tape kit the first trip. He uses a butyl tape as an inner bread and a tall urethane bead around the outer edge for the seal. Now, I need to track down oem trim for the exterior.

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Then we went to set the new front windshield and found the glass was scratched in storage so he is going to order a new one.
 
cool deal. No rust in the rear window channel ? The trim likes to collect debris. My Chevelle has this ailment
 
cool deal. No rust in the rear window channel ? The trim likes to collect debris. My Chevelle has this ailment
No signs of rust or patching from the bottom. There is bondo though. I'm sure they had some scale to clean up when they did the paint and the bondo was used to smooth it out. The paint job was done with the window out and runs into the trunk deck.
 
Looks like I forgot to update this thread when the windshield was installed. That went without issue once schedules aligned. Today I put the car up on the lift to inspect and determine where the oil is leaking from.
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Basically, valve covers, timing cover, and oil pan on the motor. Plus cooler lines and oil pan on the transmission.

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I am gathering parts for a front disc brake conversion. I've bought a kit for the rotors and calipers and this is the parts list.
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Now I'm trying to narrow down what size master cylinder to buy. I have a factory vacuum booster in the car which is good but I want to replace the single pot master with dual and plumb appropriately. This Willwood unit with adjustable prop valve looks good and is available in 4 sizes. Anyone have input on what the correct bore would be for early 70s factory disc/drum? I'm leaning towards 1.125". Rockauto lists a 24mm bore for a 1978 Monte Carlo and 1.125" for a 78 Camaro.
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The caliper in my kit is a 2.5" bore vs 2.5" on the 78 Monte Carlo or 2.9" on a 79 Camaro.

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get a master cylinder for any 60's early Imp, that had front disc rear drum. I will fit the booster, and more than likely have the correct fittings for the hard lines
 
The 1965 Impala weights about 3500 lb
78 Monte Carlo about 3200 lb
79 Camaro about 3300 lb
1968 the Impala got larger with a curb weight over 4000 lb.

So i think the 1" master would match up well with the 2.5" caliper but 1.125 would be slightly more brake pressure with the same caliper.
get a master cylinder for any 60's early Imp, that had front disc rear drum. I will fit the booster, and more than likely have the correct fittings for the hard lines
Factory disc brakes were not introduced until 1969 for the Impala. That car used a 1.0 or 1.125 bore with a 2.9 or 3.0 bore.
 
also the Imp has the larger bolt circle than the Camero or Monte, and larger rotors. I would have thought the 67 would have been an option for disc brakes, like the Camero and Chevelle
 
My kit uses a 10.5' dia rotor from the 78 Monte vs 11.0" of the 78 Camaro or 11.7" of the 69 Impala. It uses a caliper from a 1990 celebrity that just happens to be similar to the 78 Camaro in bore size. I expect the celebrity application uses a dinky rotor and weights half as much so it isn't worth comparing.

I chose this kit as it doesn't change the track width unlike other kits that use larger rotors. I didn't want to worry about my wheels no longer fitting. This kit will also fit 14" steel wheels but I'm running 15" aluminum wheels so I don't expect any clearance issue there.

Although, I got the relationship between master bore and pressure backwards. Larger bore generates less breaking pressure at the caliperbut requires less travel to move the same fluid volume. So now I'm leaning towards the 1.0" bore. I think either could work.
 

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