just a random thought on 10b/d44's

[shady]

I know the normal general concensus on here is "Scrap 'em" and get 1 tons....

But..... What exactly breaks on them for us who would like to keep them in our adventure (NON ROCK CRAWLER) rigs,,,, for whaterver reasons we have. There are some of us out here

1. the shafts break---- Chrome moly shafts

2. the little carrier breaks------ Doesnt a truetrac or detroit locker replace said carrier

3. the ring and pinion gears break---- A good quality set should fix this


I would think that those simple upgrades would be more than enough for us occasional (and almost never rock) wheelers

I know that those items together could buy a set of tons.... but then you have to still buy some of that for them right.... or will anyway

but thats not what this thread is about

 

[blazinzuk]

The ring and pinions are actually pretty strong overall.

Typical failures are the carrier ( I have seen detroits and ARBS have a come apart and the gears were fine)

Biggest issue with a 44/ 10 bolt is the outer and the hubs. Chro mos take care of the outer for the most parts The hub just can't get bigger. Although back in the day I carried some stock drive flanges around if I ever broke a hub.

Other weak points on them are the steering knuckles for high steer ( only 3 holes I have had issues with) aftermarket knuckles solves that.

The one issue you cannot solve is the ball joints. Keeping up on grease on them is important.

Unless you are going above 37s don't even worry about it. When you are going to be done you will probably be as much as a stock 60. But you can build it slowly which helps.

If your not going to lock the front, well just run the thing stock I ran a 10 bolt totally stock with 38s for 4 years or so. Well other than crossover steer on it.

Remember while rock crawling is hard on stuff so can mud be. The worst breaks I have ever had have been in mud. Mainly coming out of a hole and getting good traction while still on the throttle. Snap.

I am gonna run a 10 bolt in the front of my Jimmy if I ever get around to locking it up I will put chro mos with spicers in there. Hoping to get an aftermarket knuckle for the x over too.

Put a beefy tie rod end in it and be done

 

[imiceman44]

I know the normal general concensus on here is "Scrap 'em" and get 1 tons....

But..... What exactly breaks on them for us who would like to keep them in our adventure (NON ROCK CRAWLER) rigs,,,, for whaterver reasons we have. There are some of us out here

1. the shafts break---- Chrome moly shafts

2. the little carrier breaks------ Doesnt a truetrac or detroit locker replace said carrier

3. the ring and pinion gears break---- A good quality set should fix this


I would think that those simple upgrades would be more than enough for us occasional (and almost never rock) wheelers

I know that those items together could buy a set of tons.... but then you have to still buy some of that for them right.... or will anyway

but thats not what this thread is about

I ran rocks with my k5 on d44 front and 12b rear both locked with lock right lockers and 35" tires.
Ran it hard for 6 years behind a 5.9 turbo diesel and I still have the axles.
The frame is what gave... six location cracked.
I did break one ear on an outer when the c clip holding the cap on the joint fell and the cap walked out and caught on the ball joint.
PS. I also ran dunes, mud snow and dirt.

 

[shady]

what I'm looking at is ... My burb is in great shape and i'm trying to keep it that way for as LONG as possible. so I've only been mildly wheelin it. but I go by myself ( I know... bad idea.) so I just want to reliably feel safe with it. I'm getting close to a full regear/rebuild and want to put money in what I got. (Cant find any wheels I like in 8 bolt)
I LOVE the look of H1's but don't want 16.5's other than that,,, nothing so my 6 bolts it is some day I'll sell my built 10b's to a local for pennies on the dollar and do tons...... but only when I can no longer keep up with the rust machine that will eventually win.

I've seen other guys on here that wanted to keep their 6 bolt stuff too so I thought this would be an informative thread

 

[blazinzuk]

I will say this though I hate the rear 10 bolt. I mean I hate it. Stupid evil axle.

I have witnessed them break in dead bone stock trucks ( usually spider gears)

The bearings are tiny ( wheel bearings), the housings are weak. Everything about them made them barely liviable in a full size truck.

There are other options though Rick. If you are planning on locking it up in the rear I would opt for a 14 bolt SF gear it ( also looks cooler cause the track width matches the front) Then find a used h2 locker and slap it in.

SF don't have a carrier break. So the gears don't matter at all.

Front axle alot of what you hear is hype, rear axle not so much. A stock 10 bolt is barely adequate

I am not really sure what makes them the way they are really either. I have seen quite a few rear 44s hold up in scouts and full size Jeep trucks. But the 10 bolt rear seems to have quite a few more problems.

If you want to get a super cheap rear axle that is a great axle get a Chrysler 9.25. You would have to get wheel adaptors, and the deepest you can gear is 4.56 but IMHO that is the best half ton axle out there if you can live with only 4.56s

 

[shady]

I was thinkin of the sf 14 rear,, but hadn't really made up my mind. I even have a few threads saved/started about it their $250 from my local yard. im just not wanting to change the front. I'm staying with pushpull for steering for now. and I only want 35"s and 4.56's so I should be good. I am planning on a traction aid up front for sure... was thinkin truetrac... but could do a limited slip if its better... (lot of snow driving so I don't like that idea)

 

[blazinzuk]

I was thinkin of the sf 14 rear,, but hadn't really made up my mind. I even have a few threads saved/started about it their $250 from my local yard. im just not wanting to change the front. I'm staying with pushpull for steering for now. and I only want 35"s and 4.56's so I should be good. I am planning on a traction aid up front for sure... was thinkin truetrac... but could do a limited slip if its better... (lot of snow driving so I don't like that idea)

Trutrac is a limited slip

 

[TheBeast_88K5]

Built correctly, and wheeled correctly, a 10b/44 will live.
I beat the HELL outta mine, under the Beast.
Even jumped it a few times, and it was just fine.

In fact, it lives under NorCal_Chris's Jeep.

Thats not to say that I didn't have to put $1,200 into it...
But, the b*tch lives!!!

 

[NorCal_Chris]

Built correctly, and wheeled correctly, a 10b/44 will live.
I beat the HELL outta mine, under the Beast.
Even jumped it a few times, and it was just fine.

In fact, it lives under NorCal_Chris's Jeep.

Thats not to say that I didn't have to put $1,200 into it...
But, the b*tch lives!!!

Im not nice to it either.

ask dan. My transfer case, my springs, my front driveshaft, and my tierod

 

[Deuling]

I just blew my open rear 10bolt on 33s playing in the dirt. Not mud, not rocks, just loose dirt

 

[big dan]

I have seen quite a few rear 44s hold up in scouts

This is because scouts have no power, actually my scout came with a broke dana 44 rear and it was stock with 33s.

Ill agree that 10 bolt rears are barely adequate though. I broke the spider gears on one with a stock truck with 31s on the street. Don't plan on owning another 10b rear.

As far as 10 bolt fronts go, every 4x4 I own has one and I have a pile of them for spare parts. I find people throwing them away, most of the time to swap in a dana 44. For me it was always the u-joints breaking which took out the shaft. Never broke a hub but the only rig I have that I really bash on has warn supremes and I carry drive flanges for backups.

 

[454Sub]

My 10bolt holds up to a warmed up 454, it has an Alburn, 5.13s, chromolys, crossover and GOOD locking hubs spinning 39.5 x 18in tires. Now, I dont crawl up anything rock like, loose dirt hills have never been a problem for it. But, its going to a buddy for his 4Runner project and mine is getting a high steer crossover 60. Only reason is is I have almost the entire doubler ready and highly doubt the 10bolt will hold. And I cant sell it busted up for the money I need to get the 60 up to snuff.

For something that doesnt do rocks, is fairly lightweight and driven with a bit of common sense it can hold up. Now the 10bolt rear is a pos.

 

[TheBeast_88K5]

Not 10b rears.... Those are CRAP.

 

[Burbdood 74]

I had the rear 10 bolt break on the street taking off from a dead stop in my 90 K5 with 33's. I didn't flog on it hard but a few times and it was enough to strip 7 teeth of the ring gear and 5 off the pinion gear.

That said...I'm just like Shady. I don't want to get rid of my 6 lug wheels and my Suburban is mainly a family transporter/dirt road explorer. I dont need 1 ton axles for what I plan to do with it. In fact, I just replaced the rear 12 bolt for a 10 bolt and I plan to run it till it dies. I may just decide to rebuild the 12 bolt and keep it in the wings just in case.

 

[sokoloka]

If you are planning on locking it up in the rear I would opt for a 14 bolt SF gear it ( also looks cooler cause the track width matches the front) Then find a used h2 locker and slap it in.

It's just as easy to disc brake a SF as it is an FF right?

 

[blazinzuk]

It's just as easy to disc brake a SF as it is an FF right?

You can just use stock parts on a sf they fit afaik. I will leave drums to retain the parking brake and just mantain them

 

[shady]

I dont think the sf14 brakes will clear 15" wheels though from what i read before cant remember exactly but that would definitely be a down fall

 

[shady]

Trutrac is a limited slip

in a way it is.... but it does lock a lot harder than a clutch type one does

 

[imiceman44]

I dont think the sf14 brakes will clear 15" wheels though from what i read before cant remember exactly but that would definitely be a down fall

All 14b clear 15" rims.
It's the fronts that don't.

 

[shady]

Ahh. got ya that makes me happier