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Just bought a CUCV for $625.

kennyw said:
You prefer ether starts like the old 2 cycle Detroits used?:dunno:
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I've been around a lot of 2 cycle Detroits used in Gen Sets. They start right up on the coldest days with no ether.

That being said, nope, mostly John Deeres, Cummins, Detroits (4 cycle), etc.

Martin
 
My Blazer has always started. I've left that thing in below zero weather for a week and never had a problem.

Now that I've said that, it'll die this week.
 
My dad's old IHC 460 diesel would not start off of the glow plugs alone once it went below freezing. We had to park it next to the shop heater and build a fire for at least an hour before it would crank fast enough. I think that thing was still 6V DC though.
 
You'll need a manual glow plug switch with the 60g's...leave them on for about ten seconds when its below freezing,and you may need a few cycles before it'll fire up if its really cold out..

The fork loader we had at the junkyard had a 4 cylinder detroit diesel 2 cycle in it--we always started it by jumping it off another vehicle,even my VW Jetta could jump start that thing...if we could get it to spin over 3-4 turns,even if it was slow,that thing would always fire right up...smoke like hell for a few minutes,then clear up and run sweet...I wished my truck started as fast as that thing did..

A farmer up the street from me has an old CAT bulldozer--not sure what engine is in it,but its a diesel..I've seen him light a bale of hay on fire under it,to get it warm enough to start a few times!..:eek:
 
I run 60g's on my M1008 and all i did was convert it to 12v for the GP's its not very hard you jsut move some wires around on the relay and if your gp relay card is bad people make new ones.
 
Richcz28 said:
My Blazer has always started. I've left that thing in below zero weather for a week and never had a problem.

Now that I've said that, it'll die this week.
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Damnit :doah:

But it wasn't because of the glow plugs.
 
Put four of eight glow plugs in today. Got the left bank. The farthest forward one on the right bank wouldn't come out, so I screwed it back in the hole. How do people usually get them out?

I then mounted four 35x12.50R16.5" BFG All Terrains I had on some GM 16.5x6.75" steel wheels. Swapped them for the 33x12.50R15" BFG's on the silly wide, no back spacing white spokes that were on it. Helped some with the buzzing of the engine.

69-1.jpg

The TH400 was slipping pretty bad, so I drove to town and poured 4 quarts of ATF in it before I got it to the full mark. Thought this was an odd place for one to have rotted out.

69-2.jpg

I also fixed the no head light issue. Both headlights were burnt out. Odd. Luckily I had an old '81-'82 single head lamp radiator support in the hog barn, so I stole the headl lights from it. They were both good.

Martin
 
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looks more like that area was cut out?

Autolite 1110's and AC 60G's are both good, but take a long time to glow. Kennedy quick heats are also self limiting, but glow faster so you can use the factory glow controller. All of them IME last roughly two years before dying off one or two at a time.
 
I think all the glow plugs are supposed to be good at the same time, otherwise the resistance drops and volts increase burning out the other plugs. I'm not real great with electricity, but I read something along those lines.
 
Thanks. It's kind of a pos, but I might run it through the winter if it'll start.

Martin
 
Richcz28 said:
I think all the glow plugs are supposed to be good at the same time, otherwise the resistance drops and volts increase burning out the other plugs. I'm not real great with electricity, but I read something along those lines.
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Oh, my plan is to replace all four, I just couldn't get the one out, and I was running out of day light.

Martin
 
82355 said:
Oh, my plan is to replace all four, I just couldn't get the one out, and I was running out of day light.

Martin
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Cool, I know the military's have something different then the civilians. The 24v gets dropped to 12 volts. It wouldn't be fun to burn up new ones because you left in the old ones.
 
Getting the stuck ones out can be an exercise in patience. Just keep unthreading and hope the swollen tip catches and threads out...

I think number 8 is easier to get to from the wheel well area rather than from the top. I could be wrong, it has been 5+ years since I messed with GP's.
 
The glow plug closest to the radiator on the right side in my 82 K2500 wont come out either--it unscrews,but the tip must be badly swollen,I've even gone as far as chucking the glow plug in a drill,and spinning it in reverse,till I feared it would snap off inside the cylinder..I screwed it back in and said friggit..
It seems to start ok on 7 working ones the past 12 years..

I've read how some have simply unscrewed the glow plug that refuses to come out,and just start the engine,and eventually expansion and the force of the compression will blow it right out of the head...so far I haven't been brave enough to try that method...they do sell "glow plug extractors" too,but I doubt they would pull it out without breaking the tip off..

I've had an Autolite 1110 glow plug fail in the #3 cylinder and get chowed in the piston & valves,it hasn't seemed to have done any permanent damage,but I do hear a tapping lifter type sound ever since,until the engine gets fully warmed up...

I no longer "mix" different brands or part numbers ,all the glow plugs need to "match" from what I've been told,otherwise the one with the least resistance gets most of the current,and can overheat and fail--I think it's true once one fails,the rest seem to not last very long too..the 9G's and Champion brand ones swell up the worst when used with manual activation..

I like the AC 60G's but I've had 2 sets of them rust away and look like salted brake bleeders in just a couple years...my exhaust manifolds are crumbling away too,the road salt gets blasted right on them by the front tires...it was great fun removing the rear most ones with bolt out extractors..I was lucky they came out easy,and I used anti-seize on them..
 
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