Dabba
1/2 ton status
I'd just have the original starter rebuilt and keep the 24 volt system. I had a 12v swapped in and converted, after about a month I went back. I'm for keeping the electrical system stock.
CK5
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Just bought a CUCV for $625.
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I'd just have the original starter rebuilt and keep the 24 volt system. I had a 12v swapped in and converted, after about a month I went back. I'm for keeping the electrical system stock.
Yeah, I like stock parts, so I want to do away with all of the stupid CUCV crap.
Martin
Martin
Then you need a 205 
No thanks.
I'd rather have an SM465/NP208.
Martin
I'd rather have an SM465/NP208.
Martin
Dabba
1/2 ton status
Isn't "stock" really 12v?
Not on a CUCV.
To each his own, I never found it hard to get parts for my truck either, but that's me I guess. Steelsoldiers has part numbers for everything.
Actually, 12V is the majority of the stock system. The 24V was just an afterthought to meet spec.
yep
Dabba
1/2 ton status
I own one, I know. They came stock from the factory with everything pretty much the same as a civy truck except for the starting system. There is 24v going towards to glow plugs but it gets reduced to 12 before it reaches them.
A lot of us have a 12V civilian glow plug controllers already anyway, so I guess it boils down to the starting/charging system. Do 12V vehicles crank as fast as the 24V ones? I haven't really decided what I'd do if/when my starter dies, but I do find it a pain jump the CUCV.
Dabba
1/2 ton status
It would be a pain to jump, but i never had to jump mine in the years I've had it as 24v. During the month I had it as 12v, I did two or three times. I think the point of the 24v system was to stay uniform with the rest of the military for jumping, but i do think you get more starting power across two batteries over one.
The other problem with converting out is, if you forget how you did it or get a truck already converted, and something goes wrong. Who knows what was done and what's going on. Meanwhile there are tech manuals and a lot of people that know the stock dual 12v/24v system of something went wrong
The other problem with converting out is, if you forget how you did it or get a truck already converted, and something goes wrong. Who knows what was done and what's going on. Meanwhile there are tech manuals and a lot of people that know the stock dual 12v/24v system of something went wrong
Meh. I can't think of any good reasons to keep it 24 volt.
Martin
Martin
For every person you find who is familiar with the 12v/24v system, I'm confident you could find several who are familiar with the vastly more common 12v-only system. I would think getting closer to normal would increase your ability to find support for your truck. It certainly makes it easier to replace your starter when you break down in Nowheresville, Ontario.
Dabba
1/2 ton status
For every person you find who is familiar with the 12v/24v system, I'm confident you could find several who are familiar with the vastly more common 12v-only system. I would think getting closer to normal would increase your ability to find support for your truck. It certainly makes it easier to replace your starter when you break down in Nowheresville, Ontario.
True, but methods of conversion vary. If someone did it right and wired it like a stock civy truck, well that's the way to do it. But most do it other ways
I think that's true for the majority of project trucks, regardless of make, model, or wiring harness voltage. This is why lots of folks look for unmolested trucks when starting a project. Dealing with hacked-up workmanship can be downright irritating at any voltage.
Dabba
1/2 ton status
Yeah. As long as you're keeping the truck and/or doing your own work. I see tons of people on the steal soldiers site trying to figure out what the po did
Yeah...One of my trucks suffered through a medium-quality engine swap before I got it. Sorting that out is proving to be a headache.
Dabba
1/2 ton status
What did they swap in?
On my rig? My Suburban started with a 1984 6.2 and ended up with a 1982 6.2 (red block, with a few minor differences). Should just be a bolt-in swap, but there are enough loose ends running weirdly around that engine compartment to make me wonder what they were thinking.
For example, the glow plug controller evidently failed. A set of 6 gauge wires was run from each side of the glow plug relay to the cab, where they were connected to a button. When I got the truck the PO told me that the switch had failed (little surprise, given its 5A service rating
), so he ripped it out and had it hanging loosely while he connected the terminals with a pair of pliers. It did work, but it was definitely not a good idea. Other little things (like the transmission cooler lines blocking access to the starter motor) point to hack-quality workmanship throughout the rig. I am slowly correcting these deficiencies, but it will be a while before the truck is in good shape throughout.
My truck has a LOT of hack stuff done to it. Another reason to swap it to 12 Volt. Eliminate a lot of the unnecessary **** that is hacked together.
Martin
Martin
