CK5
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Just bought a CUCV for $625.
- Thread starter 82355
- Start date
Well that's your problem right there. A flex plate where there should be a fly wheel...
For the less experienced here, how bad is that flywheel? Looks to me like it would work until it randomly stopped in the wrong position for the starter. Is there more to it?
It is a flexplate, not a flywheel. The engine usually stops in the same four places. That flex plate is shot.
Martin
Martin
Fair enough, I looked that one up to recall the difference. What's the symptom of that trashed flexplate? Spinning starter, or more than that?
I really couldn't tell you. They sometimes just do that.
Martin
Martin
What is the easy way to remove Flex plate?
I can see just sliding the trans/transfer case back some to get at it, but everything is unbolted anyway so may as well drop it all on the floor at that point and get it all out of the way. No!?
schuttothrill
1/2 ton status
Shift linkages are still hooked up.. I just slid mine back when I had to do a flexplate on my old one. This was while laying on my back in a driveway.
Marty, if you part it out I might be interested in the 6.2 for an MPG project I'm thinking about.
Marty, if you part it out I might be interested in the 6.2 for an MPG project I'm thinking about.
I broke down and just put a new flexplate in it.
Won't start, batteries are junk.
Martin
Won't start, batteries are junk.
Martin
I put irrigation batteries in it, and had been driving it off and on. Tried to start it again the other day, and no start. Dam thing is annoying.
Martin
Martin
rompinstompinmudmonkey
1/2 ton status
I've been battling starting issues with my cucv and I think I have the culprit figured out. Sometimes it can sit for weeks and start right up, other times only a few days.
The trucks have 2 charging systems, 2 alternators, and 2 batteries. The left alternator charges the front battery. All of the 12 volt functions run off this circuit. The right alternator charges the rear battery, which is only used for starting.
I found out that my 12 volt side wasn't charging. When I would drive after dark and use the lights I would have problems starting the next day because I didn't have 24 volts to engage the starter.
There are 2 warning lights on the dash. Gen 1 and Gen 2. They both must light up when you turn the key on to start. If they don't light up, that's an indicator that the circuit isn't charging.
The trucks have 2 charging systems, 2 alternators, and 2 batteries. The left alternator charges the front battery. All of the 12 volt functions run off this circuit. The right alternator charges the rear battery, which is only used for starting.
I found out that my 12 volt side wasn't charging. When I would drive after dark and use the lights I would have problems starting the next day because I didn't have 24 volts to engage the starter.
There are 2 warning lights on the dash. Gen 1 and Gen 2. They both must light up when you turn the key on to start. If they don't light up, that's an indicator that the circuit isn't charging.
Mine is converted to 12 volt. It is also VERY hack.
Martin
Martin
It is either a dead starter, or a bad cable or connection. Should test the starter. Thing is so cobbled it is rather annoying.
Martin
Martin
I have a 24V starter you can have if you are still 24V.
EDIT just re-read and you are 12V. Sure you have plenty of those.
Nope. The only other 6.2 I have runs. Most of the 6.2 trucks around here have been converted to gas burners.
Martin
Martin
I do. I don't understand why people choose to do it so poorly.
Martin
Martin
I you want to walk through the wiring here is the conversion instructions I used. You should be able to find the problem if you just trace this.
http://www.roscommonequipmentcenter.com/nn10.pdf
http://www.roscommonequipmentcenter.com/nn10.pdf
That is not how mine was done.......
Martin
Martin
