Just cracked open the box with my 89 wiring in it...*Now with PICS*

[NEK5]

I can't view your pics, sorry. (work)

Just replace the fuse block if you've got the one that went to the harness. Don't try to make this easy on yourself, it will just make more work for you elsewhere. If you've got all the '89 wiring, match the wires up that are cut, and solder them back together. Install in truck. Done. There is no "easier" way to do it IMO, GM didn't put a bunch of junk in there, they put what is needed. Now if this is going to be a buggy or something where you want to mount stuff differently, I can see it, but not if you plan to run a semi-factory setup. If you can't simplify the injection wiring, why would you replace it? How is creating something from scratch any less difficult than swapping a complete harness? To create something from scratch, you would certainly need to understand how everything works and what it does before even trying. Then you need all new wiring, connectors, soldering, shrink tube everything, and so on.

Sounds like you found the ALDL?

Should have a "clear" connector off the ECM wiring near the ECM connectors, which goes to the drivers side of the truck for things like VSS input, 12V, etc.

Well, i won`t be starting from scractch really. Basically what I`m doing, is i`m transferring the EFI circuits that are fused in the fuseblock, and instead of fuses, I`ll be using circuit breakers. So, for the most part, the engine wiring remains the same.

 

[dyeager535]

So you'll cut/discard the EFI specific wires off the stock fuse panel, run ignition switched and battery non-switched wires from the fuse panel and battery to power I assume two relays for a group of circuit breakers? You realize of course that all the circuits aren't fused the same, (most are twenty, one or two of mine are 5 or 10) so you can't necessarily gang things on the same circuit breaker?

Well, you COULD gang them up with improper amp breakers I guess...of course, if you use resetting breakers like are already on the fuse panel, you'll have no idea why the vehicle won't run because you can't visually see which circuit has a problem. Yes, you can buy different amp automotive breakers, at least down to 10 amps are easy to find at auto parts stores. So you'll probably want to use the stock style breakers (better to have multiple of the parts already used than add more of a different style, right?) and carry spare blade fuses around so you can replace the breakers with them when/if you develop a problem.

I had starting problems on my truck (bad injectors it turns out) at least with fuses I could probe test them or quickly visually inspect to make sure they weren't popped.

Sounds like a lot of work to accomplish exactly what's already in the stock setup, but that's me.

Or maybe I'm just misunderstanding the execution portion of your plan. I was thinking I'd go breakers as well when I started, but it just didn't make sense when I realized I couldn't run the same amperage to every device, and I couldn't run 4 feeds off the same breaker. I ended up running an additional fuse panel, all run off of accessory terminals from the stock fuse panel. Now that I've got an EFI donor, I may swap wiring again, so that I don't need all the extra wiring to power the ECM, injectors, VSS, and so on.

 

[NEK5]

Or maybe I'm just misunderstanding the execution portion of your plan. I was thinking I'd go breakers as well when I started, but it just didn't make sense when I realized I couldn't run the same amperage to every device, and I couldn't run 4 feeds off the same breaker. I ended up running an additional fuse panel, all run off of accessory terminals from the stock fuse panel. Now that I've got an EFI donor, I may swap wiring again, so that I don't need all the extra wiring to power the ECM, injectors, VSS, and so on.

You nailed it here

Are you familiar with ryokens` work? What I`m doing is very similar to what he has done. Basically, in simple terms, what once was a fuse, will now be a push button resettable circuit breaker, or someother type of "self resettable" circuit breaker. This way ff it "pops", just like with a fuse, I`ll be able to tell what "popped", which helps in the diagnosing process.

I think what you thought I was doing was swapping everything over onto an auto resettable breaker, which would be a huge no no, because as you said, components run on different amps. Not only that, when it does "pop" it automatically fixes it self, leaving me to believe there was never a problem although, it may be something that needs to potenially be adressed.

Make sense now?

 

[dyeager535]

Yeah that makes sense if you can "see" the problem. I recall now that using those has been mentioned.

 

[ryoken]

One thing I'd like to point out here....

I'm not sure if I'm misunderstanding you or not Ben, but I have seen you refer to this a few times.. That is, that you want your EFI stuff on resetables.. That is really only 3 circuits iirc and that is debatable in itself...

If you are planning on a breaker system, you really need to do it "all or none"... eliminate the fuseblock totally and build a new protection unit... thus my glovebox... planning on having motor stuff breakered and the rest of the truck on the fuseblock is not worth it on multiple levels as Dorian mentioned...

As I've warned you, this is not for the faint of heart.. Having a THOROUGH understanding of DC systems is essential.. Not to mention a good supply of wire, etc and a plan...

Guess I'll go check your PM now...