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K10 Back-half Revamp! **posted wheelin' pics**

I agree with chevysmith... welding to the frame won't hurt anything but I'd bolt before I welded. Welding to the frame is a half arsed way to do it IMO. Just drill your bolt holes the same size as the bolt(to keep out slop), and use grade 8's.
 
stress risers x 10......



not a fan of welding to the frame personally, for that reason...
 
colbystephens said:
how is it really different from the ones that are riveted in place? aside from being more rigid than the OEM ones who's rivits are loosening over time? i don't think he's referring to a trans/t-case crossmember. that'd be plain dumb.
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My front crossmember by the steering box is loose. Of course, my blazer had been in an accident before I got a hold of it. The frame moves around when somebody turns the wheel. I now have the Offroad Design brace and things still move.
 
Remove loose rivets, drill out rivet holes to a snug fit on the next size up grade 8 bolt. :deal:

That's what I would do If it were me.
 
original balzer said:
Chevy frames are mild steel no reason not to weld.
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Has nothing to do with them being mild steel...

when you weld you put heat on the frame... not good but will probably be fine. Say you need to move it or take it off... you put even more heat on the frame taking it off and putting it back on not to mention its alot more work then turning a few bolts. Also when you heat cycle mild steel it can get weaker. Again it'll probably be fine but bolting is the way to go.
 
My rear bumper is basically going to be a crossmember with my tail-lights and a receiver hitch in the middle and it'll be welded in place. I see no reason not to weld it in place.
I'll have a crossmember going across the top of the frame behind the cab that my cage will tie into and it'll be welded in place too.

I got the pump swapped out tonight and went for a decent drive around town (to return the pulley puller and the core) and then down the freeway and everything felt fine. It doesn't squeak anymore, the wheel feels nice and firm and it doesn't leak so I guess I'm good to go :)

I snapped a few pics at night, those LED tail-lights are BRIGHT!

They'll look cool once they're recessed into the rear bumper but for now these brackets work.

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I pulled the shock towers off the other night and put some huge washers on to help disperse the load a little better until we get the cage in.
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Yep, I can already see the cracks starting behind the cab. Yep.
 
Are the zip ties to remove the license easier on the trail??

that could go either way really :D

Lookin good man :waytogo:
 
No. It's so when the thing cracks and breaks in half on the trail he can cut the zip ties and take the plate real quickly before he burns it and abandons it.

Yep.
 
avery, you may want to box your frame wherever you tie your cage into it or its going to crack....i actually have cracked a k5 frame...it was a trazer and the drives side started a crack thru a t-cace crossmember bolt and started up the side, it wasn't opened up, so i pulled that bolt and v'd the crack and welded it, & a small 3/16 fishplate no more problem, i had the truck for 5-6 yrs longer, no problems, so a cracked frame, isn't worth the space that its taken up in avery's thread! no more talk of it!

i'm glad you decided to not chop that bed up, i wish those rust free environment came a little futher east, a perfect bed here could fetch $750-800 easily...b4 gas goes back up sky high...is that rust free full vert w/out windows still sitting around for $1500?
 
blazin_blazer said:
i'm glad you decided to not chop that bed up, i wish those rust free environment came a little futher east, a perfect bed here could fetch $750-800 easily...b4 gas goes back up sky high...is that rust free full vert w/out windows still sitting around for $1500?
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That's not set in stone yet... I want to get the important stuff done first then we'll worry about the bed/sides... I thought I was going to sell my short bed and look for a long bed since we could cut it down to fit the new wheelbase but to be honest I'm not really sure yet.
 
Randy92782 said:
I have no idea what you guys are talking about. where do you see cracks?? :confused:

Or did i miss a joke there somewhere :doah:
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It's not just the rear crossmember you have to worry about, cracks near the steering box are also quite common. Here's a bad one:

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:usaflag:
 
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