Mine were a pain in the balls too.
CK5
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K10: Built HP60/241-205 Doubler/tons of tube
- Thread starter Avery4jc
- Start date
Well things should be moving right along after the little input hiccup. Smokinthehippies and I are doing a straight trade so he gets the tall bearing 32 spline input he needs and I get the tall bearing 27 spline input I need!
I got the range box put back together tonight and everything fits perfect! The gear mesh between the planetary gears and the outer ring gear is perfect and the bearing area on the input shaft is the correct height to use the original bearing so none of that had to be changed. I had my helper with me tonight but she wasn't much help. 
So now the million dollar question... bolt it up and go or figure out something different for the intermediate shaft? Thoughts? This shaft is done well, it's straight, doesn't bind and the splines all look great. BUT as we've talked about before it doesn't appear to be hardened after it was welded and machined.
So now the million dollar question... bolt it up and go or figure out something different for the intermediate shaft? Thoughts? This shaft is done well, it's straight, doesn't bind and the splines all look great. BUT as we've talked about before it doesn't appear to be hardened after it was welded and machined.
Id say run it unless the metal is that "soft". You have a metallurgy class at school? If so ask the teacher for hardening thoughts. I though you had said your in school, idk where at though.
Why not just get that shaft heat treated. Or maybe cryod?
I got a little work done on the 14 bolt this afternoon and sold some parts so more progress and cash to buy more parts! Always a good thing.
My 14 bolt has actually been a 13 bolt all these years. When I was swapping it in originally I some how snapped off one of the diff cover bolts. I can't remember how as it was over 5 years ago but I have always been bugged with the fact that there was a bolt snapped off. Somewhere along the line I tried to get it out and snapped an EZ out off in it which just made things worse. So now that it was out of the truck I was determined to get it taken care of.
I had to grind down until I got through the hard EZ out then centered and drilled out through the bolt to relieve it then was able to get it out with a bigger EZ out. So now I have a 14 bolt again.
I've been running this 14 bolt for years and have never pulled the drums, not even when I bought it so needless to say they were a bugger to get off. I couldn't get the adjuster to budge and ended up pulling the drum off with a puller centered on an impact socket that fit just inside the ID of the wheel bearing. Kinda sketchy but it worked. I'll toss some disc brakes on it later down the road in the build.
My 14 bolt has actually been a 13 bolt all these years. When I was swapping it in originally I some how snapped off one of the diff cover bolts. I can't remember how as it was over 5 years ago but I have always been bugged with the fact that there was a bolt snapped off. Somewhere along the line I tried to get it out and snapped an EZ out off in it which just made things worse. So now that it was out of the truck I was determined to get it taken care of.
I had to grind down until I got through the hard EZ out then centered and drilled out through the bolt to relieve it then was able to get it out with a bigger EZ out. So now I have a 14 bolt again.
I've been running this 14 bolt for years and have never pulled the drums, not even when I bought it so needless to say they were a bugger to get off. I couldn't get the adjuster to budge and ended up pulling the drum off with a puller centered on an impact socket that fit just inside the ID of the wheel bearing. Kinda sketchy but it worked. I'll toss some disc brakes on it later down the road in the build.
Looks fun, man those drums can be more than just a bugger some times. Like mine lol. You wont regret disc brake coversion. I just finished my and it was definatly worth it
I've heard mixed opinions on holding force but I'm thinking I better do the discs now to help hold this thing back when in low/low.
3.06:1 1st in the 700, 5.44:1 in the cases and 5.38's in the axles might be too much for front discs and crappy drums out back.
What would your final low be with the 35s
Well with the trans in 1st, doubler in low/low and 5.38's it's about 90:1 but that doesn't include what I get from the torque converter.
I don't have the 35's anymore. I want 40"+ for this setup.
TheBeast_88K5
Banned
Success! 
Avery4jc said:
That's what I was coming up with too. I wasn't sure if you had gotten bigger tires yet or not
A properly working drum brake is better than a disc brake, but it is so much easier to service the disc brakes, especially on an inboard drum setup.
Martin
Martin
Can you explain that a bit more? I've driven an all-drum brake car and it wasn't very good. Then again, it also didn't have power brakes. Is it due to having a greater surface area and thus greater friction?
If that was true, then why do all the oems have 4 wheel disks and not 4 wheel drums?
Because drums don't cool off as well as discs, so they start to heat fade. Drums "self energize".
Oh, and there are thousands of vehicles running down the road every day with way heavier loads than these pickups are carrying with OEM drum brakes on every axle.
Martin
Oh, and there are thousands of vehicles running down the road every day with way heavier loads than these pickups are carrying with OEM drum brakes on every axle.
Martin
This is my thought as well. I've heard guys say this over the years because they see big rigs with drum brakes and assume drums are better but its just not true. Plus look at the weight savings and ability to stop when wet. I've had a few hairy situations playing in the water with the k10 where the drums got all wet and quit working.
Not trying to argue, I just still don't quite understand your point. Doesn't the first statement in your message indicate a problem with drum brakes? What do you mean by "self energize?" Sounds like a phrase from some new age psychology tract...
Also, as to what's being done (lots of drum brakes) and what's best - I'm not sure that frequency of use is necessarily an indicator of what's best. It might just be what's easiest and thus cheapest, or maybe stock of drum brakes what just insanely high and now people are starting to switch over, or maybe discs are better but just not necessary, so why switch an entire factory over to a new style for something that isn't necessary.
Again, not arguing, but I just don't really understand your point.
A simple Google search:
http://www.google.com/search?q=arou....,cf.osb&fp=3226d37ade666d03&biw=1024&bih=596
The first link explains it very well.
http://www.cdxetextbook.com/brakes/brake/drum/drumbrakeop.html
So like I said drum brakes work better, they just don't continue to work better after heavy use. A disc brake works less well, consistently. Hence why most cars use discs now. I have already swapped my Suburban's 14bff over to discs. Whenever my other rigs using a 14bff need brake work, they will also get switched over to disc brakes. You guys are misunderstanding me. A drum brake works better in theory, but in the real world, in our application, we are better off with discs. If for no other reason than the fact that they are just plain easier to service with the inboard drum set up.
Martin
http://www.google.com/search?q=arou....,cf.osb&fp=3226d37ade666d03&biw=1024&bih=596
The first link explains it very well.
http://www.cdxetextbook.com/brakes/brake/drum/drumbrakeop.html
So like I said drum brakes work better, they just don't continue to work better after heavy use. A disc brake works less well, consistently. Hence why most cars use discs now. I have already swapped my Suburban's 14bff over to discs. Whenever my other rigs using a 14bff need brake work, they will also get switched over to disc brakes. You guys are misunderstanding me. A drum brake works better in theory, but in the real world, in our application, we are better off with discs. If for no other reason than the fact that they are just plain easier to service with the inboard drum set up.
Martin
A simple Google search:
http://www.google.com/search?q=arousal&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-USfficial&client=firefox-a#hl=en&safe=off&client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla:en-US%3Aofficial&sclient=psy-ab&q=self+energizing+drum+brakes&oq=self+energizing&aq=3&aqi=g8g-m2&aql=&gs_l=serp.1.3.0l8j0i5l2.63356307l63361808l2l63365030l15l14l0l0l0l0l1247l6473l5-3j3j2l9l0.frgbld.&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.,cf.osb&fp=3226d37ade666d03&biw=1024&bih=596
The first link explains it very well.
http://www.cdxetextbook.com/brakes/brake/drum/drumbrakeop.html
So like I said drum brakes work better, they just don't continue to work better after heavy use. A disc brake works less well, consistently. Hence why most cars use discs now. I have already swapped my Suburban's 14bff over to discs. Whenever my other rigs using a 14bff need brake work, they will also get switched over to disc brakes. You guys are misunderstanding me. A drum brake works better in theory, but in the real world, in our application, we are better off with discs. If for no other reason than the fact that they are just plain easier to service with the inboard drum set up.
Martin
Great links and yes the first link explains everything about both systems.
But to sum it up for those that are too lazy: Drums are lighter, have larger surface so more breaking with less effort, easily combine braking and emergency brake, and last longer.
They do fade after repeated use but used in the rear it's not a big deal since 75% roughly of your braking power is in the front.
Discs are COOL, in many ways
and easy to service, but complicate things when you need emergency brakes, and have to be serviced more often.In an environment where you have lots of mud or water crossings at high speed, I could see the advantages of disc rear.
But for an all around truck, an untouched original equipment system is more reliable and easier to get parts for.
And I have to agree my 80k lbs truck stops just fine with drum brakes all around, and it's a 2001.
