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K30 with a 6.2

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Wednesday I will mount the Pyrometer, boost gauge, pull the running boards, and install my hand throttle. I have a new radio for it but it is at my other house. I need to go home this week to do some work. May install it then.
 
Out of my not knowing curiosity, would there be much difference between a 6.2 and a 6.5 both turbo'ed?

Either way I have been reading the thread, pretty neat I think.
 
This is what wikipedia shows as the hottest 6.5
Power / Torque (highest): 215 hp (160 kW) @ 3,200 rpm / 440 lb·ft (597 N·m) @ 1,800 rpm

Not knowing exactly what the drivetrain loss is I can't tell you but they typically use 72% (mustang dynos read lower than most chassis dynos) on manual cars. So that would be 208hp and 486ftlbs. I would guess the truck would be higher loss with the sm465, 205 and 70. I know mine peaks tq at 2100 rpm and my hp is at 2800-2950 rpm. I will tell you my Governor isn't set right because it will run right past 4k.
 
no pics, not around it. NO nos anymore. We tired to break it once.
 
When you get a chance can you tell me more about your electric pump and whether or not you still have it on keyed power?

I was thinking about wiring up a push button manual glow plug circuit, and running an e-pump on the same switch for priming purposes, but also sharing with the pink wire on the pump, for when the glows aren't being used.

Thoughts?
 
it is a speedway holley red pump copy. It is set for key on hot. I still have the manual glow plug controller and mine started the other night after sitting for 3 days with min trouble with to plug cycles and half throttle like the book says. I would run the pump all the time if it was me and just use it as a pusher for your mech pump.
 
That sounds reasonable. You said you were thinking about changing it from key power at some point so you could have key without pump... Did you change your mind?

I think my glow controller is going out so I'm going to have to do some fixing at some point anyway...
 
I got lazy for now. I will have it switched ground at some point to allow me to shut it off.
 
What function would that serve exactly? I mean, why would you want to be able to turn the pump off? Just curious. If it's neato I'll copy you.
 
Just so I can work on stuff with the key on without listening to the pump running. No real gain. Some people will tell you that it should be run through an oil pressure switch so if the motor dies (like in a wreck) you won't have fuel everywhere. Meh I have more to worry about that.
 
So while supervising a 454 and a 5.3 tear down this weekend I worked on this a little. Had to remove the intake and tighten an injector line, fixed a power wire at the starter and added 4 pieces of flat from the air cleaner lid to the ring that seals around the intake. The boost had distorted the housing. Hopefully this will help. Finally I put a piece of 00 steel wool in the cdr to oil filler housing. It was pulling a lot of oil over into the intake. This is a old stock car racer trick that should help condense the oil vapors and blow by before it makes it to the intake tract. Next up, cd player and 6x9s behind the seat. still need to patch a little rust in the floor and see what the boost is at the filter housing. It show 14 at the turbo but who knows what it is seeing at the intake.
 
Got a hand throttle installed, spent hours cutting the hole for the radio, cleaning the gauges, replacing the lights in the cluster with 822s and painting the reflector alum. Also welded up the shifter so I and do some better speed shifting. Spent a good half hour blowing out the dash. Darn these old trucks can hold the dirt and dust.
 
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