CK5
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K5's with Carburetors (want your opinions)
- Thread starter Chief Brody
- Start date
I loosened and repositioned the fuel line flare fitting and slowly tightened it with a brake line wrench and just snugged it, and it stopped leaking, but I got to tell you it scares me to death now. If the engine were really hot it would be bad.
Sooooo...after cleaning the distributor cap and getting the fuel line sealed, it appears to have no hesitation at all in the acceleration. I will know for sure when I can get it out on the highway again (it's raining now)
Sooooo...after cleaning the distributor cap and getting the fuel line sealed, it appears to have no hesitation at all in the acceleration. I will know for sure when I can get it out on the highway again (it's raining now)
T
tenderfoot
Guest
Well shoot, if it's gone you'll not know if it was the cap or the leak. I would put $ on the cap.
It's the cap...the gas was leaking until I changed the filter this time
So, if a distributor cap is bad, is it likely that the spark plugs are less than 100% because of the weakened firepower?
You could just pull them and look before buying new. They would give you hints if they aren't in good shape.
I'm going to be really nervous about the fuel line thing the next time I drive it. But if I let it idle in the driveway for a while and it does't leak, it should be ok? Not sure what happened the first time I tightened it up...I was careful and hand started it and felt that I did it carefully and correctly.
If it doesn't leak while the engine warms up, then it should be good. Lots of fittings can do that, you just have to be ready to watch and re-seat it. Loosen a little and tighten it again when if it leaks.
Just make sure that you are holding the filter housing with the 1" wrench.
Just make sure that you are holding the filter housing with the 1" wrench.
As I recall the early oil cooler lines use the same type of fitting/flare. I apparently didn't do a good job cleaning them when I installed the used cooler/lines, and it had a very, very slow leak, but I hate leaks.
Took it apart, sure enough, there was some junk that was on the flare. Cleaned all the mating surfaces off very well, reassembled, hasn't leaked since.
The fuel filter inlet is more difficult because the whole line is solid. As I recall, the advice when tightening the solid fuel line is to loosen (but not disconnect) it at the fuel filter, tighten the fuel filter end, then tighten it at the fuel pump.
From what I see the ignition point of unleaded is 232*, I want to think in that area it's unlikely to get that hot. You'd have to have a large leak, or good pressure, to get it close to something like the alternator or exhaust manifold that could ignite it. As warm/hot as the intake gets, I'm guessing the fuel vaporizes very quickly, and a slow leak in that large of an area isn't going to support combustion. I don't play around with fuel leaks, so not something I'd just forget about...fire extinguisher handy, and checking every time you stop,10-20 times just to make sure, maybe wait a couple weeks and check again, but if it doesn't leak where it used to, then you probably got it. Worry will fade and trust will replace as time goes on.
Took it apart, sure enough, there was some junk that was on the flare. Cleaned all the mating surfaces off very well, reassembled, hasn't leaked since.
The fuel filter inlet is more difficult because the whole line is solid. As I recall, the advice when tightening the solid fuel line is to loosen (but not disconnect) it at the fuel filter, tighten the fuel filter end, then tighten it at the fuel pump.
From what I see the ignition point of unleaded is 232*, I want to think in that area it's unlikely to get that hot. You'd have to have a large leak, or good pressure, to get it close to something like the alternator or exhaust manifold that could ignite it. As warm/hot as the intake gets, I'm guessing the fuel vaporizes very quickly, and a slow leak in that large of an area isn't going to support combustion. I don't play around with fuel leaks, so not something I'd just forget about...fire extinguisher handy, and checking every time you stop,10-20 times just to make sure, maybe wait a couple weeks and check again, but if it doesn't leak where it used to, then you probably got it. Worry will fade and trust will replace as time goes on.
That is why so many delete the in-carb fuel filter and add an external one..to much chance of a leaky flare fitting ,and the fact the carb casting strips easily or cracks,and the filter itself is fairly useless,seeing once it clogs,the pressure will force the spring back and let fuel by-pass it completely..(along with any crud in it!)..
An add on fuel/water separator filter & base unit like the 6.2 diesels had is becoming a popular addition to many older vehicles that have to use ethanol laced fuels..especially for ones that sit or dont get driven daily..many brands are available,prices vary from $30 to over $100,the main thing to look at is what size filters they can use,how expensive they are, and, are they widely available..
You cant buy ethanol free fuel here unless you buy VP race fuel from a limited number of bulk fuel suppliers and its very costly,at least $10 a gallon..but many landscapers buy & use it in all their seasonal equipment to avoid problems..
An add on fuel/water separator filter & base unit like the 6.2 diesels had is becoming a popular addition to many older vehicles that have to use ethanol laced fuels..especially for ones that sit or dont get driven daily..many brands are available,prices vary from $30 to over $100,the main thing to look at is what size filters they can use,how expensive they are, and, are they widely available..
You cant buy ethanol free fuel here unless you buy VP race fuel from a limited number of bulk fuel suppliers and its very costly,at least $10 a gallon..but many landscapers buy & use it in all their seasonal equipment to avoid problems..
I can get pure gasoline all around here...but I am interested in the external water / fuel seperator filter...can you point me to one that might fit my application?
This Wix 24309 filter base mount & a 33123 Wix filter is what my '82 GMC came with factory (or a GM equivalent ,that takes that filter)..
There are dozens of other brands and types of water separator filter units,marine uses are the most common,I have seen some for sale at Bass Pro Shops and Cabellas for outboard motors that will work just as well on a vehicle,also some used on gas pumps at farms,etc,are available at Tractor Supply ,that have a transparent bowl at the base of the filter so ant contaminants can easily be seen...myself,I prefer an all metal filter,as up here anything with a plastic or glass bowl could crack if water froze in it..
It pays to do research on the filters that fit whatever unit you might choose--for example,Perma-Cool makes a water separator kit that sells at Summit Racing for about $52--but the replacement filter is $32 !..
The Wix 33123 is interchangeable with a 33418 that is just a few inches longer and used on many Detroit Diesels ,and can be had for under $30 at many parts stores or truck stops..some places like Rock Auto have some "close out" deals too,they have some Purolator ones that fit the same application for about $10..You don't want to pick a filter base that takes only "their" specific filter,because that can bite you in the butt if you need one out on the road somewhere..
Up here we cant buy ethanol free fuel unless you want to buy VP race fuel at limited locations from bulk fuel dealers..and its almost $100 for 5 gallons last time I priced any..but for the most part,only vehicles that sit a lot seem to have fuel issues with ethanol,daily driven ones don't seem to have much trouble..that is why small engines get the worst of it..they get used,then left to sit with gas left in them..
There are dozens of other brands and types of water separator filter units,marine uses are the most common,I have seen some for sale at Bass Pro Shops and Cabellas for outboard motors that will work just as well on a vehicle,also some used on gas pumps at farms,etc,are available at Tractor Supply ,that have a transparent bowl at the base of the filter so ant contaminants can easily be seen...myself,I prefer an all metal filter,as up here anything with a plastic or glass bowl could crack if water froze in it..
It pays to do research on the filters that fit whatever unit you might choose--for example,Perma-Cool makes a water separator kit that sells at Summit Racing for about $52--but the replacement filter is $32 !..
The Wix 33123 is interchangeable with a 33418 that is just a few inches longer and used on many Detroit Diesels ,and can be had for under $30 at many parts stores or truck stops..some places like Rock Auto have some "close out" deals too,they have some Purolator ones that fit the same application for about $10..You don't want to pick a filter base that takes only "their" specific filter,because that can bite you in the butt if you need one out on the road somewhere..
Up here we cant buy ethanol free fuel unless you want to buy VP race fuel at limited locations from bulk fuel dealers..and its almost $100 for 5 gallons last time I priced any..but for the most part,only vehicles that sit a lot seem to have fuel issues with ethanol,daily driven ones don't seem to have much trouble..that is why small engines get the worst of it..they get used,then left to sit with gas left in them..
