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L18 8.1L swap resource thread

Regarding the 241 -it has been perfect for me but it is not clocked and just hanging down there waiting for the right rock to explode on.... Will I need an adapter from the 4l80 to the 241? Would love to save some cash during this phase of the build, maybe do something else later.
 
2Dogs said:
Regarding the 241 -it has been perfect for me but it is not clocked and just hanging down there waiting for the right rock to explode on.... Will I need an adapter from the 4l80 to the 241? Would love to save some cash during this phase of the build, maybe do something else later.
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You may have to change out your input shaft. I bet currently you have a 27 spline input on that 241. All you would need to do is change that out for a 32 spline input (since the 4l80e has a 32 spline output) and your done. You don't need any special adapter or anything. The stock 4l80e tcase adapter is a 6 bolt round just like your current 241. So just change the input out and that's it.

And as far as the tcase not being clocked or anything. In my personal opinion, you don't need to clock them if you don't want to. Just build a beef simple skid plate to protect the case, and you're done. For years I ran a SYE241 on my K5 crawler with 44" boggers. Mine wasn't clocked at all. I just built a skid plate (sure it hung down a little bit, but not bad at all) and I beat the crap outta that skid plate and never had a problem with that case ever. Plus, with clocking you then have to worry about d-shaft angles on the front driveline and exhaust can get tricky too. To be honest, keep the 241, swap inputs, and build a skid plate and be done. In my opinion, the only time a 205 is better than a 241 is when there's a reduction box in front of the 205 (meaning 203, eco box, titan box, magnum box, etc.). If looking at a stock 205 to a stock 241, I give the nod to the 241 overall. Just my $0.02 is all
 
And the 241 shouldn't require new drive shafts.

*I think.*

GM standardized drivetrain lengths somewhere along the line in the 80's, so your 350/700/241 shouldn't be any shorter or longer than the 8100/4L80E/241.

But a 205 would need a shorter front shaft and a probably a longer rear.
 
2wd to 4wd 4L80-e = tail shaft swap or spacer and cut down the tail shaft a little if its a full spline 2wd shaft . otherwise swap shaft will be required .

4L80-e to 241 adapters are on ebay a lot .

4L80-e is 32 spline output .
 
Kay86K5 said:
You may have to change out your input shaft. I bet currently you have a 27 spline input on that 241. All you would need to do is change that out for a 32 spline input (since the 4l80e has a 32 spline output) and your done. You don't need any special adapter or anything. The stock 4l80e tcase adapter is a 6 bolt round just like your current 241. So just change the input out and that's it.

And as far as the tcase not being clocked or anything. In my personal opinion, you don't need to clock them if you don't want to. Just build a beef simple skid plate to protect the case, and you're done. For years I ran a SYE241 on my K5 crawler with 44" boggers. Mine wasn't clocked at all. I just built a skid plate (sure it hung down a little bit, but not bad at all) and I beat the crap outta that skid plate and never had a problem with that case ever. Plus, with clocking you then have to worry about d-shaft angles on the front driveline and exhaust can get tricky too. To be honest, keep the 241, swap inputs, and build a skid plate and be done. In my opinion, the only time a 205 is better than a 241 is when there's a reduction box in front of the 205 (meaning 203, eco box, titan box, magnum box, etc.). If looking at a stock 205 to a stock 241, I give the nod to the 241 overall. Just my $0.02 is all
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I agree 200%. 205s are great and all but there is absolutely nothing wrong with a 241 when protected and SYE'd....and changing inputs is a cake walk (ORD has inputs stock). I also agree on clocking, no need for that BS unless you're running a 10 ft. tall lift. I have a 241 in my Burb and it crawls so much noticeably nicer than the 205 in my K10. I'm currently building a K5 and it will have a 205 but that is only because I had a 205 in stock. If I had a 241 or even a 208, it would have that instead. Not saying 205s are bad, but like Dana 60s, they are not always needed.
 
i forgot . . . . not sure on later/newer 4l80-e but 2wd for a freeze plug at the 3 o'clock mark of the case as you look at the back to the front with the adapter or tail cone off . the 2wd has a pin hole to lube the back bearing for the yoke . the 4wd has a solid freeze plug no pin hole . make sure to swap it just in case there could ever be a lube / loss of pressure problem .

the older 4l80-e used a gm # 9427692 plug for the 4wd solid version .
 
i better sell all my 205's and 60's then . . . :pimp:

only reason i use them is i do not want to fix my stuff much so i just go big and then check the oil and grease every now and then .
 
sweetk30 said:
i better sell all my 205's and 60's then . . . :pimp:

only reason i use them is i do not want to fix my stuff much so i just go big and then check the oil and grease every now and then .
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You might want to consider that as there are a lot of amateurs out there with rookie driving skills that are willing to pay top silly dollars for that stuff :haha:
 
Larry said:
Its true! The internet tells people they can't drive down a dirt road without a Dana 60 and 205 and that is total BS :dunno:
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I totally agree.
I will be running my suburban with a BBC and 241 and a 10bolt or d44 front with rcp shafts.
39"-40" tires.
The only reason people keep braking axles is because of the bad design of the single joint a le shafts.
I know in competition you could easily break even d60 chromemolly shafts but for what we do d60 not needed.
The crew cab will stay with the d60 because it will need the weight capacity of the bearings.
 
Larry said:
You might want to consider that as there are a lot of amateurs out there with rookie driving skills that are willing to pay top silly dollars for that stuff :haha:
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i have a fresh ready to roll all done up 60 srw front now and in my area 900 bucks dont even get a email or text . :dunno:
 
sweetk30 said:
i have a fresh ready to roll all done up 60 srw front now and in my area 900 bucks dont even get a email or text . :dunno:
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How many do you have?
You can easily sell them here for more.
You get that much or more for an unknown condition axle sitting in the dirt.
If you have more than one it would be worth the trip to get them where they get a better price but shipping individual axles can get expensive.
 
i am 2,644 miles from your town to my town . :doah:

i have that axle and a matching dana 70 rear with power loc posi . then 2 bare 60 fronts ready to build . and a pile of 60 caliper cores and brackets and knuckles .

anyway back to the kick arss 8.1 vortec info thread stuff . :saweet:
 
Larry said:
I don't think you could go wrong with a harness from either but if you have friends at PacFac anxious to help you I'd go with them. I know I would be interested in trying someone other than Howell for the next project.

I ordered the harness and tune for my Suburban to be exactly the same as my K10. The second harness arrived totally different and needed a few hours of rework to move things where I wanted and there is no way the tune is the same as the trucks run quite a bit different. The K10 has more low end grunt and the Burb feels to have more higher revving gonads by my butt dyno. Both rigs are the exact same with transmissions, gears and tires except the Burb has shorty headers. It would be hard to beleive shortly headers alone would make such a difference. I actually prefer how the K10 runs with a stronger low end.

One piece of advise I would give you is to have the harness builder wire and tune in the EVAP purge solenoid. Mine smell pretty gassy on hot days. So badly wish I would have done more on the EVAP side to make it functional
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Hi, @Larry , Thanks for posting all this L18 info up. I have read this thread front to back a couple times. I have a L18 out of a 2002 G-van, going into my 1991 V3500 to replace the tired 200K mile TBI 350. I have everything from the van including harness and computer. I have been slowly buying the parts needed to swap and its time to deal with the harness and programming. I had planned on using the same Howell harness and tune as you. Seeing your new comment here, do you have a different harness or tune recommendation now after your two swaps? I am not too worried about the physical swap of the engine but I don't want any issues getting it to run well. I will run my stock sm465 with 205 for now and a L29 throttle body.
 
HankScorpio said:
Hi, @Larry , Thanks for posting all this L18 info up. I have read this thread front to back a couple times. I have a L18 out of a 2002 G-van, going into my 1991 V3500 to replace the tired 200K mile TBI 350. I have everything from the van including harness and computer. I have been slowly buying the parts needed to swap and its time to deal with the harness and programming. I had planned on using the same Howell harness and tune as you. Seeing your new comment here, do you have a different harness or tune recommendation now after your two swaps? I am not too worried about the physical swap of the engine but I don't want any issues getting it to run well. I will run my stock sm465 with 205 for now and a L29 throttle body.
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Cool! Wow, a G-van engine! That’s about the most perfect 8.1 you could find for a swap into a squarebody.

No, no tune or harness recommendation I would do differently other that what you just quoted about the EVAP purge solenoid. If I could do one thing over, it would be having the EVAP solenoid operational. Tired of smelling gas :eek:
 
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