What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

L18 8.1L swap resource thread

RootBreaker said:
What you think bout these?

View attachment 535914
Click to expand...
I think you’re running a little rich. That’s what I think.
Regap them all and throw them back in.
Check your fuel pressure, see if you have any driveability codes, like O2, or EGR . Fix what ever you find. If you’ve got a slow start issue, that’s something else. Fuel related…
 
I had this back fire issue on starting. Turns out it was my camshaft Position Sensor was “F”ing up. Set two codes for it. Reading low on start and high when running. Causing a giant backfire out the exhaust every start attempt.
Now, I just charge the fuel system and it fires right up, holds 1100 rpm for about 3 seconds, then, drops back to 750-775 rpm’s, nice and steady growl now.

Note to self, don’t buy any cheap, no name sensors. Napa Gold line or AC DELCO.
Fawking no name junk cam sensor!
IMG_8368.jpeg

IMG_8367.jpeg
 
I agree, the amount of testing cam and crank sensors go through for the OEM is crazy, been part of it in my early career. I can't imagine any aftermarket companies doing that unless they are an OEM supplier. And many of those have contracts they can only sell to the automaker. So I agree, buy OEM sensors, especially the pieces that can leave you stranded and not just missing a piece of info.
 
Last edited:
The plugs do look rich. I’m few ipas in and I could see that. Plus the gap looks massive without putting a feeler gauge on it. But until the tune is right it’s probably not worth chasing until you get the tune cleaned up.
 
Unfortunately, the word "tune" gets applied to a lot of things. There's configuration, like go to a manual transmission or turn the fans on sooner. There are "canned tunes", which alter a few settings (usually just more aggressive shifts and a little more timimg), which don't know anything about how your vehicle is running. Then there's real tuning, which is either done on the vehicle or remotely using datalogs from your vehicle. This is great because you learn from looking at the data.

You can't fix a mechanical problem by changing ECM settings. It should run fine on the stock file, except where there are incompatibilities. That just requires config and/or a segment swap.
 
That's titled "max rotation". It could be related, but there are other relevant tables. I think the main one is "desired throttle area" or something like that.
 
Well after my bud got old broken camshaft sensor out and replaced...i can barely get it started. Cranks like crazy. Now and then sputters.. might start... Might.
 
Get a good name brand cam position sensor.
I’ve decided to only use NAPA or AC DELCO from now on. So sick of poor quality sensors…
 
ZooMad75 said:
You can always work with the guys from Howell. They did Larry’s original 8.1 tune with the torque management delete, eliminate burst knock retard, no downstream O2’s, egr delete and cable throttle. I’ve that tune in mine and it’s flawless. All you would have to do is send your ecm to them and tell them what you have.
Click to expand...

F that. After the shit I went through I won’t recommend their ECM. I ended up buying two ecm’s both came with wrong settings so I had to buy HP tuners and disable a bunch of crap. Thankfully @Tnsejed was familiar with the settings required and guided me through the process. I also spoke with Larry quite a bit..
 
skunked said:
F that. After the shit I went through I won’t recommend their ECM. I ended up buying two ecm’s both came with wrong settings so I had to buy HP tuners and disable a bunch of crap. Thankfully @Tnsejed was familiar with the settings required and guided me through the process. I also spoke with Larry quite a bit..
Click to expand...
I’ll chalk that up to our results may vary. It’s been a while since I’ve interacted with them on mine but it’s been flawless since we plugged it in. Tune is spot on, no odd running at all.
 
So I will asking more questions here, I will search 1st.

1st question, what are you all doing for an air filter set up, for our squares? Personally I want outside air.
 
From under the hood. Not really a “cold air intake” more of a place to hold the filter away from the throttle body. But, it wouldn’t be hard to direct it down to an opening in the radiator support.
I didn’t because I didn’t want any opportunity to to get water in it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom