Leaf Spring bushings options

[sweetk30]

If you have stock leafs up front that are like i described then you need tappered leaf design .

There a little harder to find but local spring shops can get them for you more than basic box stores .

 

[Blue85]

I just put the Kevlars in the back of my front springs a few months ago. You really need to lift the whole end of the vehicle and not just 1 corner. Once the axle twists to one side it's very difficult to get the spring eye bolts through.

If they are lift kit springs, you can just cut the bolts to get them out. Even "greasable" bolts tend to rust to the sleeve and it's not even worth the effort of trying to save the bolts by dissasembling. Run the sawzall through the bushing between the shackle and spring eye on both sides. A cutoff wheel works, but makes a horrible smoke show.

The bonded rubber factory bushings take a lot more work, as mentioned above.

 

[Joel Wilson]

If you have stock leafs up front that are like i described then you need tappered leaf design .

There a little harder to find but local spring shops can get them for you more than basic box stores .

I will dig around but I don't think there is anyone in our area that deals in just suspensions and springs, but I will ask around. We have one "4wd" shop in town and they tried to convince me that a Dana 44 was a "rare" axle and they may have to special order parts through Yukon Axle. They didn't need any parts to rebuild the front end like I tried to tell them in the beginning but I will not go back to them.

 

[Joel Wilson]

I just put the Kevlars in the back of my front springs a few months ago. You really need to lift the whole end of the vehicle and not just 1 corner. Once the axle twists to one side it's very difficult to get the spring eye bolts through.

If they are lift kit springs, you can just cut the bolts to get them out. Even "greasable" bolts tend to rust to the sleeve and it's not even worth the effort of trying to save the bolts by dissasembling. Run the sawzall through the bushing between the shackle and spring eye on both sides. A cutoff wheel works, but makes a horrible smoke show.

The bonded rubber factory bushings take a lot more work, as mentioned above.

Okay, but can you do just the front bushings for the front axle and then re attach the bolts and then lower the rear of the front springs and do those bushings? Shouldn't be any twisting that way just more of a rocking to the front and then to the rear if that makes sense.

 

[cheavyk10]

I will dig around but I don't think there is anyone in our area that deals in just suspensions and springs, but I will ask around. We have one "4wd" shop in town and they tried to convince me that a Dana 44 was a "rare" axle and they may have to special order parts through Yukon Axle. They didn't need any parts to rebuild the front end like I tried to tell them in the beginning but I will not go back to them.

Definitely don't go back to those guys. Chumps

 

[Wes Harden]

You can do the both front eye bushings reassemble, then do the the rear both rear bushings.
What @Blue85 was say dropping left or right side only will put the spring at an angle and be pita to remove install bolts.
Keep a ratching tie down strap handy it helps if axle/spring assembly shifts a little, going back together

 

[sweetk30]

I will try and find that part # for a correct add-a-leaf kit for the front .

I just got brand new aftermarket stock replacement upgrade fronts for my k30 plow truck but 4 leaf pack . Info should be in my budget beater build thread .

 

[Blue85]

Okay, but can you do just the front bushings for the front axle and then re attach the bolts and then lower the rear of the front springs and do those bushings? Shouldn't be any twisting that way just more of a rocking to the front and then to the rear if that makes sense.

Sure. Sounds like a good plan to keep things from moving around too much.

Question: Why are you replacing bushings? And are you doing the upper shackle bushings as well? Those are usually the first to fail.

 

[Joel Wilson]

Sure. Sounds like a good plan to keep things from moving around too much.

Question: Why are you replacing bushings? And are you doing the upper shackle bushings as well? Those are usually the first to fail.

Bushings are original as far as I can tell and are definitely not good. Here recently, I also noticed that the Jimmy tends to get swishy in the rear end which could be the agressive tires I put on. I've heard these tires tend to traction steer when getting into and out of the truck ruts on the road. I plan on replacing all of the bushings while I am in there and moving axles around. Sway bar bushings are already done and they were metal on metal in a couple spots. Just getting everything up to snuff and replacing OEM stuff if its trashed. Ball joints were all trashed, but the tie rod is at least usable as a trail repair.