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Leaf spring questions

euzoa

1/2 ton status
Joined
Aug 22, 2003
Posts
692
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Location
spring creek, nv
When I picked up my 89 Jimmy about 2 months ago it had a broken leaf spring. It had obviously been like that a long while (the truck was repainted in 05 and the tape on the spring had paint on it) so i decided that it would be ok to run for a while. I went out wheeling and there was some clicking and popping so i decided to i didn't trust it.

I am capable of doing it myself (in a parking lot) but im worried about getting stuck without airtools. I can get new rear springs and all the parts in need from lmc for about 200 a side. I took it to a shop i trust and they want 1000 to send them out to be rebuilt! i went to 4wheel parts, they say i can do a 2.5 lift for $680 all the way around, but i don't need a lift for what i want to do with the truck (mild wheeling with 31s)

I need advice on this.
Do I:
A: do it in my parking lot and take my chances about not having what i need and the landlord.
B: Spend the Money and have them rebuilt
C: get the lift i dont need or want, and try to install that one myself

The buddies I have arround hear are about useless, so i will have to do this essentially on my own.

Lets hear your ideas please.

Ryan
 
Specifically, which spring is broken? This will help us help you. I would assume it's a rear.
 
Specifically, which spring is broken? This will help us help you. I would assume it's a rear.


It is the rear, and I'm not sure if the price quoted is installed or just the kit...time to call them


edit: i called and insallation is 480 plus the kit

IMG_20110317_112216.jpg
 
option D: Go to the junkyard and buy a used spring/springs. Take all your tools with you and you get to practice removeing it :thumb:(which will take the same tools as installing it) in a place where you won't be hassled. Once you know what you're up against, you can replace yours stealth like in your parking lot:whistle:
 
I would do it in the parking lot. It will make it soo much easier if you can use airtools though. If you dont have them, Maybe you can borrow them from somebody. Its pretty easy to do.

Make sure u get new U bolts though!
 
Or, get some new stock replacement springs from JC Whitney, get some new u-bolts and nuts and then...

a. replace them yourself in the parking lot but chance getting stuck with either a tool issue or landlord/nosy neighbor issue.
b. bring said parts to a local shop and have them install it, should be way less than $1000 between parts and labor.

Most lift kits are front springs and rear blocks, which will not solve your problem. You would have to go with an all spring lift and that will bring your costs up more.
 
option D: Go to the junkyard and buy a used spring/springs. Take all your tools with you and you get to practice removeing it :thumb:(which will take the same tools as installing it) in a place where you won't be hassled. Once you know what you're up against, you can replace yours stealth like in your parking lot:whistle:


Yep...

As a young man, I would always go to a wrecking yard first to figure out how to tear something apart before jumping into mine... Wrecking yards can be a great learning tool...
 
option D: Go to the junkyard and buy a used spring/springs. Take all your tools with you and you get to practice removeing it :thumb:(which will take the same tools as installing it) in a place where you won't be hassled. Once you know what you're up against, you can replace yours stealth like in your parking lot:whistle:

I like this one too. Get some practice first so you know what you are dealing with and it should be relatively cheap as well. I'd say new rear springs are around $20 each at a junkyard.

They might be old and have a little sag in it but it would be your cheapest option if you don't want to lift it.
 
Yep...

As a young man, I would always go to a wrecking yard first to figure out how to tear something apart before jumping into mine... Wrecking yards can be a great learning tool...


That's probably my best bet. that is how i used to get my parts back in highschool, i just liked the idea of new springs so it would be less likely to happen again.

I may see how much a shop will change them for if i bring them in. If thats higher than i want then i think i will head for harbor freight and pick up a compressor and some impact tools.

Anybody know how big an inverter i can run without frying my stock wiring?
 
You don't need air tools... Besides, it takes a lot of air to run them...

Get some deep impact sockets and a breaker bar...

Squirt everything with penetrating oil the day before...

You could pick up an electric impact gun...
 
Thanks for all the input guys, I decided to go with the jc whitney springs, and all new hardwear from lmc. and i found the maintence guy changing his radiator in the parkinglot today, so should be fine there.

Harbor frieght electric impact (im always up for new tools) and I will let you guys know how it goes.

dumb question...Do i need to have both sides off the ground when i unbolt it or can i just put the axle and frame on jack stands on one side?
 
I'd go with the whole 2.5 lift kit, it'll come with shocks and all new bushings.
 
I would get new u-bolts,shackle bolts (9/16 x 5" ot so measure your old ones)--and use a sawsall with several sharp NEW blades,preferably Lenox metal cutting ones,to cut all the shakle bolts between the hangers & shackles ,after jacking the truck up just enough so the wheels just come off the pavement,block it up with jack stands and chocks so it cand fall over one you--do one side at a time so the axle wont move on you,it can be "fun" trying to get the springs center bolts aligned with the pad on the axle ,I've had to use a come-a-long a few times to get them in before installing the U-bolts,when I just cut everything off at once...

The hardest thing about changing springs is dealing with rusted shackle bolts--U-bolts usually get scrapped so they are just cut off,but the shackle bolts love to seize in the eye bushings inner steel sleeves,and its often impossibe to get them out,without ending up sawiing them or torching them (torch destroys the bushings of course,adds more cost for new ones ,about 25 bucks)--if you saw the U-bolts and shackle bolts off its a simple job to plop the "new" spring on and bolt it up with new hardware..


it might be worth buying brand new shackles so you wont have to deal with getting the remains of the cut bolt out of the bushings--they are fairly cheap,I found some locally for 25 bucks each with a new bushing installed already--our old trucks often have rusty shackles and thin ones can snap unexpectaedly and should be replaced if they look at all weak...this is the easiest way to do it outside with a minumum of tools...
 
Oh yeah,the inverter question--yopu can run pretty much any size inverter you wish,as long as you wired it direct to the battery (with a fuse or circuit breaker of course) ,it puts no stress on the trucks wiring because they have their own power & ground cables (or you must provide them)..the smaller inverters that plug in a cigar lighter socket usually aren't much more than 300-400W ones--I prefer wiring them direct to the battery myself,so they wont pop the fuse or possibly melt the lighter's power wire...
 
I would get new u-bolts,shackle bolts (9/16 x 5" ot so measure your old ones)--and use a sawsall with several sharp NEW blades,preferably Lenox metal cutting ones,to cut all the shakle bolts between the hangers & shackles ,after jacking the truck up just enough so the wheels just come off the pavement,block it up with jack stands and chocks so it cand fall over one you--do one side at a time so the axle wont move on you,it can be "fun" trying to get the springs center bolts aligned with the pad on the axle ,I've had to use a come-a-long a few times to get them in before installing the U-bolts,when I just cut everything off at once...

The hardest thing about changing springs is dealing with rusted shackle bolts--U-bolts usually get scrapped so they are just cut off,but the shackle bolts love to seize in the eye bushings inner steel sleeves,and its often impossibe to get them out,without ending up sawiing them or torching them (torch destroys the bushings of course,adds more cost for new ones ,about 25 bucks)--if you saw the U-bolts and shackle bolts off its a simple job to plop the "new" spring on and bolt it up with new hardware..


it might be worth buying brand new shackles so you wont have to deal with getting the remains of the cut bolt out of the bushings--they are fairly cheap,I found some locally for 25 bucks each with a new bushing installed already--our old trucks often have rusty shackles and thin ones can snap unexpectaedly and should be replaced if they look at all weak...this is the easiest way to do it outside with a minumum of tools...


Thanks, thats great advice! i got all new ubolts and shackle bolts, and polyurethane bushings (i know i didnt need to, but eeh, i just sold my car).

Adding torch to my shopping list...

I'm hopping i will be able to get it appart without cutting since it is a cali truck, otherwise i will have to buy a saws all too
 
IN CA,you might just be able to unbolt everything and re-use the bolts!--here NOTHING comes apart without sledge hamers and torches,sawsalls, and other implements of destruction...our climate here is quite corrosive,and is the cause of 99.9% of all automotive "problems"...all you hear at repais shops is "it rotted out,it rotted off,its so rusted its ready to fall apart".etc...I've seen cars from CA from the 60's that came apart like they were put together yesterday at a salvage yard that specializes in older muscle and special interest vehicles he hauls back from CA & AZ...
Still,cutting the bolts is less work & faster than trying to remove and save them,at any rate..
 
Yea, I'm from upstate NY, i Know all about rusting out and rotting. I had i truck i could put my hand through the fender and touch the bed. I'm just out here till august for work, and decided to pick one up as cancer free as possible
 
Thanks for all the input guys, I decided to go with the jc whitney springs, and all new hardwear from lmc. and i found the maintence guy changing his radiator in the parkinglot today, so should be fine there.

Harbor frieght electric impact (im always up for new tools) and I will let you guys know how it goes.

dumb question...Do i need to have both sides off the ground when i unbolt it or can i just put the axle and frame on jack stands on one side?

It would be best to jack the truck up as high as possible, jack from the center of the axle to get both sides up. Put tall stands under the frame rails. Remove the wheels, don't forget to loosen the lugs while they are still on the ground if you don't have an impact gun. Lower the jack till the axle droops down and hangs on the springs. Then move the jack to one side of the axle and jack it up just enough to support the weight of the axle but not load the spring. Work on just one side at a time. Now you can start removing your u-bolts first and spring eye bolts next. Then you can get the new one in and move on to the next side. Good tip: try loosening all your bolts while the truck is still on the ground on it's tires. This way if you have to fight with any of them you will not be in danger of pulling/pushing the truck off the stands. :waytogo:
 
ive got all my stuff together, i may give this a a shot tommorow.

Another question though, my new spring came with bushings in them, but i bought poly urethane bushings. whats my best way to get the bushings out? I would rather not burn them

also, locktite, yay or nay?
 

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