What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Leaf springs

I believe that you have what is considered a 6" lift, complete aftermarket springs up front, then rear appears to have a leaf added on the bottom of the original spring pack, as well as the block. I may be incorrect and it is only a 4" lift, though.
I honestly don't know what you will gain by replacing the front springs with another set of kit springs besides getting new, clean parts. If the springs are possibly Rough Country brand, I have heard that they are overly stiff.

I have ORD custom springs on a couple of my trucks and really like the ride, but they do let the axle wander side to side more than stiff springs, and I don't have a front sway bar on either truck, so that can be a factor as well. My point is that you should be aware of what soft springs can do on a straight axle truck.
 
I'm not sure what all you're asking. But the front is definitely lifted. Stock squarebody springs have negative arch (the center is higher than the ends), so seeing positive arch is a clear indication of a lift. The steering arm has been replaced, also. Stock steering arms sit much closer to the axle tube. The bump stops have been spaced downward.

What is supporting the top end of the rubber hose going to the brake calipers? In the pictures the junction looks unsupported. If the steel line is allowed to vibrate it will work harden and eventually break.
 
I definitely think that it's a 6" lift.

And I think that you have a good truck there!
 
campfire said:
I'm not sure what all you're asking. But the front is definitely lifted. Stock squarebody springs have negative arch (the center is higher than the ends), so seeing positive arch is a clear indication of a lift. The steering arm has been replaced, also. Stock steering arms sit much closer to the axle tube. The bump stops have been spaced downward.

What is supporting the top end of the rubber hose going to the brake calipers? In the pictures the junction looks unsupported. If the steel line is allowed to vibrate it will work harden and eventually break.
Click to expand...
In one of the pictures, you can see part of the tab welded to the square tube that is spacing the bump stop down.
 
I was just looking for the input from you veteran owners. What needs to be repaired or replaced? Would better picture help? I was looking to sand down the rust and spray rusted exposed metal with VHT converter and spray paint over it.

I originally started this post to see what spring sets and parts I need to buy without modifying the truck.
 
My recommendation is to call ORD and do what I did. Order a complete suspension from them.

Currently my suspension in the front is some re-arched leaf springs from the late 80s to early 90's with what looks like stock bushings and washers to make up the width difference in the hangers and some cobbled together home made drop shackle. The rear is stock leaves with a 6" block with stock bushings all the way around. All suspended with some cheap pro-comp shocks.

I decided that instead of trying to piece something together that may or may not work, just bite the bullet and replace everything down to the last nut so that way I know exactly what's under it and can start fresh and build up from there. Drastically more expensive than I planned but worth it in the long run.
 
Kyle1983 said:
I was just looking for the input from you veteran owners. What needs to be repaired or replaced?
Click to expand...

What are you trying to achieve? What issues are you having now? You have a bunch of good parts there, I wouldn't start randomly scrapping stuff until you have a clear plan.
 
centexk5 said:
My recommendation is to call ORD and do what I did. Order a complete suspension from them.

Currently my suspension in the front is some re-arched leaf springs from the late 80s to early 90's with what looks like stock bushings and washers to make up the width difference in the hangers and some cobbled together home made drop shackle. The rear is stock leaves with a 6" block with stock bushings all the way around. All suspended with some cheap pro-comp shocks.

I decided that instead of trying to piece something together that may or may not work, just bite the bullet and replace everything down to the last nut so that way I know exactly what's under it and can start fresh and build up from there. Drastically more expensive than I planned but worth it in the long run.
Click to expand...

This is probably the safest route to go but also the most expensive. I bought the Blazer for 15K. Overpriced in America yes, in Sweden. Not really. So far I have another 2K in it in the past 6 months. Another 1K in 3 weeks. The inside will be completely restored except it will have raptor liner.

Money is on my mind....
 
1. The shocks are probably no good.
Set of Bilstein 5100, German company.
2.
Swaybar Correction/Disconnect Kit™
From ORD.
IF you are trying to get rid of the rear axle blocks, do shackle flip with shock or 3/4 leafs.
3 looks like maybe body lift.
I didn't see any rust in those pictures that would worry about.
Fuel tank maybe hard to tell.
 
campfire said:
What are you trying to achieve? What issues are you having now? You have a bunch of good parts there, I wouldn't start randomly scrapping stuff until you have a clear plan.
Click to expand...

No issues. Generally just being proactive and replacing bad pieces before it snaps in the middle of town and I block traffic. If You think I am ok as is then I can accept that. Just noticed rusty lead springs and some other miscellaneous components.
 
campfire said:
@Kyle1983, take a tape measurement between the top of each spring pad and the frame section directly above it. Then compare to stock numbers, and you'll know how much higher you are.
Click to expand...


Tomorrow I can do this. Maybe I can make a video and upload to youtube so you can all see.
 
Oh and your timing marks on dampener, put another yellow mark at 10* time to that mark at idle warm engine.
The 30* degree mark is where your timing should be at @2500 rpms warm engine
 
Wes Harden said:
1. The shocks are probably no good.
Set of Bilstein 5100, German company.
2.
Swaybar Correction/Disconnect Kit™
From ORD.
IF you are trying to get rid of the rear axle blocks, do shackle flip with shock or 3/4 leafs.
3 looks like maybe body lift.
I didn't see any rust in those pictures that would worry about.
Fuel tank maybe hard to tell.
Click to expand...


Private message me. Also if I am correct the bottom of the fuel tank is starting to rust. 20200307_133506.jpg
 
Gently flake the coating off in those areas to see what is underneath. Be care if you want it remain moving under it's own power. Might start leaking. If it were mine in your situation I would be preparing to replace it. Has the gear swap been done?
 
Kyle1983 said:
No issues. Generally just being proactive and replacing bad pieces before it snaps in the middle of town and I block traffic. If You think I am ok as is then I can accept that. Just noticed rusty lead springs and some other miscellaneous components.
Click to expand...

Ah. If you're happy with how it rides, there's no need to change springs. The rust on the springs is most likely an indication that you no longer have teflon pads between the leaves (and I don't see them, either). These would keep them sliding smoothly instead of scraping and generating metal dust. It's not a big deal either way, but it will ride smoother and get rid of the red rust dust if you replace the pads. Clean up the leaves with a wire brush and hit them with spray paint to add a protective layer.

Bushings can be changed when you start to dislike the ride harshness, but they don't look bad to me. The sway bar bushings do not appear to have much age yet. The red poly bushings aren't original, so someone already put a bunch of parts into this truck.

The shocks are rusty, but appearance doesn't matter. You'd replace them when you're no longer happy with their damping ability (I.E., the truck starts to bounce 2 or 3 times after hitting one pothole). That has more to do with how many miles they've seen. Exterior appearance isn't a good indicator.
 
Wes Harden said:
Oh and your timing marks on dampener, put another yellow mark at 10* time to that mark at idle warm engine.
The 30* degree mark is where your timing should be at @2500 rpms
Click to expand...
Wes Harden said:
Gently flake the coating off in those areas to see what is underneath. Be care if you want it remain moving under it's own power. Might start leaking. If it were mine in your situation I would be preparing to replace it. Has the gear swap been done?
Click to expand...

Gear swap
Lockup kit
Transmission pressure
Engine timing
Electric choke

All in 3 weeks. Does my fuel tank look that bad? Guess It's hard to say
All happening in 3 weeks
 
campfire said:
Ah. If you're happy with how it rides, there's no need to change springs. The rust on the springs is most likely an indication that you no longer have teflon pads between the leaves (and I don't see them, either). These would keep them sliding smoothly instead of scraping and generating metal dust. It's not a big deal either way, but it will ride smoother and get rid of the red rust dust if you replace the pads. Clean up the leaves with a wire brush and hit them with spray paint to add a protective layer.

Bushings can be changed when you start to dislike the ride harshness, but they don't look bad to me. The sway bar bushings do not appear to have much age yet. The red poly bushings aren't original, so someone already put a bunch of parts into this truck.

The shocks are rusty, but appearance doesn't matter. You'd replace them when you're no longer happy with their damping ability (I.E., the truck starts to bounce 2 or 3 times after hitting one pothole). That has more to do with how many miles they've seen. Exterior appearance isn't important.
Click to expand...

Well that's good to know. Is sanding and rust converter a good spring job or am Ibwasting time underneath the vehicle?
 
Kyle1983 said:
Well that's good to know. Is sanding and rust converter a good spring job or am Ibwasting time underneath the vehicle?
Click to expand...

You're not going to structurally rust the leaf springs in any reasonable amount of time. The only issue with rust on leaf springs is that the lumpy surface causes them to not slide as well (leading to a higher effective spring rate and a stiffer/harsher ride). Hence the teflon pads spacing them apart, and the rust-proofing paint to keep the inside surfaces smooth. Otherwise it really doesn't matter. The red dust tells me the fronts have been rubbing (and evidently not the backs ones). The general scaly appearance on the outside of the pack is just an aesthetic issue, not a mechanical one.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom