CK5
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Leaking/smoking radiator

I think I have it figured out. The relay is pointless wired this way it is hot, and activated all the time, if my suspicions about the red wire spliced with yellow fused wire are correct.
This condition will cause a draw on the battery. The only thing actually switching is the temp sensor.
So lets say we fixed the yellow fused feed wire to keyed hot. The system would function, not as efficiently as it could. By putting the temp sensing switch between power and the fans we are adding resistance to an already heavy load. As evidenced by melty relay socket.
My solution puts the temp sensing switch on the relay control side, and has only the relay between the fans and the fused battery source.
Up to you how you wish proceed.
 
I think I have it figured out. The relay is pointless wired this way it is hot, and activated all the time, if my suspicions about the red wire spliced with yellow fused wire are correct.
This condition will cause a draw on the battery. The only thing actually switching is the temp sensor.
So lets say we fixed the yellow fused feed wire to keyed hot. The system would function, not as efficiently as it could. By putting the temp sensing switch between power and the fans we are adding resistance to an already heavy load. As evidenced by melty relay socket.
My solution puts the temp sensing switch on the relay control side, and has only the relay between the fans and the fused battery source.
Up to you how you wish proceed.
I want to go how you want me to. So continue on as your diagram shows?

Prior to this I always unplugged the battery. This summer I left it connected and is the thing melted could that have been the cause? That draw always being there?
 
Sure one minute I'll draw it out know that i better under stand the all the parts we have
 
Ok... per @JoshHefnerX and @Wes Harden

I think i got it..

Ok...
Joined blue to red..

Made black ground from temp sensor to fire wall with "blue" crimp.

Black wire from relay to temp sensor with "red" crimp

Red to battery

White to ignition fuse in fire wall

Ground from fan to battery terminal
IMG_2203.jpeg
 
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Got the coolant and installed new transmission cooler lines. So if this looks good above I'll add the coolant and give it a go
 
looks good, to clarify the blue to red is the the fan ? If so it is good to go. Having the temp sensor switch the ground works well too.

Once it is all together and running, make sure the fan is drawing air through the rad and not trying to push air.
 
looks good, to clarify the blue to red is the the fan ? If so it is good to go. Having the temp sensor switch the ground works well too.

Once it is all together and running, make sure the fan is drawing air through the rad and not trying to push air.
Blue>red (from the fan)
Thanks to you and to @JoshHefnerX
I'll fill up the radiator tomorrow or Thursday and fire it up and see what happens...
 
Welp, truck got to about 210 according to the dash and the fans didn't kick on

Fans work just not when connected to the sensor.. temp sensor might be bad
 
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isn't the knob there to adjust when the switch closes ? have you played with it at all ?
 
Played with that nothing mattered. Truck got to like 210 and no matter where I had that knob turned the fans never kicked on
 
Just a thought - did you follow everything put out there by Wes and others or did ya assume that some of the previous owners wiring was correct ( gotta verify everything from cradle to grave and assume nothing was originally correct in a situation like this ) ?

And if none of this works out ya can always install a H.D. seven blade cooling fan and severe-duty ( note that was not heavy-duty but severe-duty - there is a difference ) fan clutch with a shroud.
A setup like that will pull more cfm’s of air flow than the electric fan setup ya got now!

An auxiliary pusher fan in front is fine for certain conditions but for true air movement with no issues or worries the severe-duty stuff just works.
If ya need an application use a 1983 K30 with a 454 and a 4.56 gear ratio ( that makes a difference in how the clutch locks up in regards to RPM’s ).

IMG_2126.png
 
Just a thought - did you follow everything put out there by Wes and others or did ya assume that some of the previous owners wiring was correct ( gotta verify everything from cradle to grave and assume nothing was originally correct in a situation like this ) ?

And if none of this works out ya can always install a H.D. seven blade cooling fan and severe-duty ( note that was not heavy-duty but severe-duty - there is a difference ) fan clutch with a shroud.
A setup like that will pull more cfm’s of air flow than the electric fan setup ya got now!

An auxiliary pusher fan in front is fine for certain conditions but for true air movement with no issues or worries the severe-duty stuff just works.
If ya need an application use a 1983 K30 with a 454 and a 4.56 gear ratio ( that makes a difference in how the clutch locks up in regards to RPM’s ).

View attachment 493059
I wired it except his Wes and Josh instructed me to. I took a pic and text Josh before doing f anything and posted here ..

I have contemplated going your route. I can also just wire the fans to ground and have them on when I start the truck with o need for temp sensor switch
 
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