Lets talk doublers

[blazinzuk]

To me the best part is the 205. When your in double low your usually going pretty slow but I pop my front axle in and out all the time. Most trails have some distance in between the obstacles so with a front locker it's sweet to be able to take that front axle in and out. Your in technical stuff when your in double low. So stopping to pop the range box out is usually no biggie.

Course you gotta be twin sticked in the 205

 

[wetoolowdingbangow]

I don't have to come to a dead stop, but pretty slow.

Martin

Yeah coming to a complete stop sucks. People are like what's wrong?

 

[wetoolowdingbangow]

To me the best part is the 205. When your in double low your usually going pretty slow but I pop my front axle in and out all the time. Most trails have some distance in between the obstacles so with a front locker it's sweet to be able to take that front axle in and out. Your in technical stuff when your in double low. So stopping to pop the range box out is usually no biggie.

Course you gotta be twin sticked in the 205

Nice. I would definitely like to be able to increase the turning radius being locked.

I don't think there's any point of not twin sticking if your rebuilding the box. I think I read some where you can just grind the stock stuff to work. then I'll have to make the shifter setup.

 

[blazinzuk]

Yah it's just modding the shift rails. It's been done a hundred times. From guys doing it on cnc mills do a dude with a harbor freight grinder and a good grip

 

[blazinzuk]

Also the shifter setup is easy. I totally forgot about shifters when I did my doubler. Now my shifters rattle and ya gotta jiggle em a bit, but I did my shifters for about 20 bucks . They aren't awesome but they shift the t case

 

[truck-oholic]

As in moved the axle back?

One thing that may create some problems is the guy (D&D machine) is no longer around, who made the in between shaft for the 241/205. Im not sure if anything is available now that hes off the grid.

Yes, moved the axle back.

Back when I had my Ranger I ordered two 1350/1354 doubler kits from D&D and paid up front. 10 months later, after many many many phone calls and lots of excuses on his end I finally got my kits. They were well made but I was like damn dude I could have made and had a baby in the time it took you to get me these. That's just f*cking ridiculous.

Personally, I will never do business with him again after that experience.

Just suck it up and buy the NWF eco box kit man. I am getting tired of repeating myself

 

[wetoolowdingbangow]

Yah it's just modding the shift rails. It's been done a hundred times. From guys doing it on cnc mills do a dude with a harbor freight grinder and a good grip

Ok sweet. Ill have to get on that.

Also the shifter setup is easy. I totally forgot about shifters when I did my doubler. Now my shifters rattle and ya gotta jiggle em a bit, but I did my shifters for about 20 bucks . They aren't awesome but they shift the t case

Nice! Thats what ill be doing!

Yes, moved the axle back.

Back when I had my Ranger I ordered two 1350/1354 doubler kits from D&D and paid up front. 10 months later, after many many many phone calls and lots of excuses on his end I finally got my kits. They were well made but I was like damn dude I could have made and had a baby in the time it took you to get me these. That's just f*cking ridiculous.

Personally, I will never do business with him again after that experience.

Just suck it up and buy the NWF eco box kit man. I am getting tired of repeating myself

Yeah screw that. Id be buying a silencer at that point. lol

Im not a big fan of pitching money at stuff. I have too many tools at my disposal to not fab this stuff myself. Making stuff myself is too rewarding when people ask where i got things from!

Im still researching the 241. If i cant find the intermediate shaft then im doing the 203.

 

[truck-oholic]

Ok sweet. Ill have to get on that.



Nice! Thats what ill be doing!



Yeah screw that. Id be buying a silencer at that point. lol

Im not a big fan of pitching money at stuff. I have too many tools at my disposal to not fab this stuff myself. Making stuff myself is too rewarding when people ask where i got things from!

Im still researching the 241. If i cant find the intermediate shaft then im doing the 203.

If you don't do the 241, then I would sell everything you have (203 & 205) and buy a used already built 203/205 with the spline count you need and here is why:

205 32 spline conversion - $200
203 32 spline conversion - $150
ORD intermediate shaft - $300?
ORD triple stick shifters - $315
27 spline 203 value - $150
10 spline 205 value - $150
Total = $1,265

As I said before, you can easily pick up a used unit for $900-$1,200 and save yourself a bunch of time. If you got it for $900 then you would also save $365. I know this is a "budget truck" so you can't tell me that saving $365 is bad even if you had to give up your dream of building your own adapter.

 

[82355]

To me the best part is the 205. When your in double low your usually going pretty slow but I pop my front axle in and out all the time. Most trails have some distance in between the obstacles so with a front locker it's sweet to be able to take that front axle in and out. Your in technical stuff when your in double low. So stopping to pop the range box out is usually no biggie.

Course you gotta be twin sticked in the 205

My NP205 shifts so poorly, I hardly ever pop it out of gear. I am locked in the front, but I have hydraulic assist. Haven't really needed to.

Martin

 

[wetoolowdingbangow]

If you don't do the 241, then I would sell everything you have (203 & 205) and buy a used already built 203/205 with the spline count you need and here is why:

205 32 spline conversion - $200
203 32 spline conversion - $150
ORD intermediate shaft - $300?
ORD triple stick shifters - $315
27 spline 203 value - $150
10 spline 205 value - $150
Total = $1,265

As I said before, you can easily pick up a used unit for $900-$1,200 and save yourself a bunch of time. If you got it for $900 then you would also save $365. I know this is a "budget truck" so you can't tell me that saving $365 is bad even if you had to give up your dream of building your own adapter.

Its clearly not sinking in lol. Im likely going to stick with what I have or flip the 203 for a 241. Either way im not paying for the triple stick set up. Theres way too much info out there to throw thag money away when I can build it for $60. Although its a budget truck, its a learning opportunity as well so I dont mind taking my time. I'm aiming for December to install this whole thing. The other benefit of building your own **** is you know who to blame when it goes wrong and where it's been.

 

[truck-oholic]

Its clearly not sinking in lol. Im likely going to stick with what I have or flip the 203 for a 241. Either way im not paying for the triple stick set up. Theres way too much info out there to throw thag money away when I can build it for $60. Although its a budget truck, its a learning opportunity as well so I dont mind taking my time. I'm aiming for December to install this whole thing. The other benefit of building your own **** is you know who to blame when it goes wrong and where it's been.

I didn't pay $315 for the triplestick shifters, that is ORD's price. I was using that to show value. I bought my stuff used, which is the way you really save money. I am very interested to see your price breakdown of whatever you wind up doing and the time that it takes you to do it. Sometimes the money is worth spending to save the time.

Out of curiosity, why did you ask for opinions on all of this when you clearly already have your mind made up about not doing what has been suggested by at least a couple guys who have been there done that so to speak?

 

[kgblazerfive]

As a side note when I have mine in low-low-low I have accelerate to get down a hill. The engine braking is insane.

 

[wetoolowdingbangow]

As a side note when I have mine in low-low-low I have accelerate to get down a hill. The engine braking is insane.

Yes yes! This is what I need! thanks!

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

Im still researching the 241. If i cant find the intermediate shaft then im doing the 203.

We started down the 241/205 route a few years ago (no plans at this point to revisit that) but we do have a few 31 spline shafts left that fit Ford 205 input gears (direct fit in big bearing GM cases). If you decide to got that route, I think we have 5 or so left.

My 241/205 was a great project for my college-kid-budget Blazer. I sold that t-case setup ~4 years ago I think, but it never failed me. Without machine work on the adapter, nothing was really aligned and that would kill splines/bearings if I put more than a couple hundred miles on it a year (trailer queen since 07 or so). Not sure how many miles it would've lasted, but not something I'd consider for a daily driver.

The 31 spline shaft between the 241/205 was always the part I was most afraid of. With 2.72:1 in the front gear box, any time you have the first gearbox in low, the intermediate shaft becomes the weak link in the system. Even though the 31/32 spline connections were the "heaviest duty" connection on the pre turbo diesel stuff, when you almost triple the torque on the input the shaft between the 241/205 becomes the weak link. Weaker than the 205 and, if it breaks, means no power to either axle (and if you think it's hard to find a new shaft at home/surfing on the internet )

The stock/welded 241 case wasn't awe-inspiring either.

Most people that have seen the other planet boxes with 23/31/32 spline intermediate shafts would be surprised how often we get calls to fit our Magnum shafts into theirs because theirs are broken. We don't do that, and they wouldn't fit anyway.

To me, we know our Magnum isn't cheap but I think the value is there. We us OE ring gears/planets and the huge main shaft is US made heat treated chromoly steel, more than 200% torque capacity of a 32 spline shaft (the biggest "budget" planet box shaft). You can (and I did) build a cheaper setup, but

Personally, I sold my 241/205 setup complete and replaced it with a Magnum/205. Gearing stayed the same (which I couldn't imagine being better) but the planet housing and intermediate shaft got WAY stronger. But, I did design the Magnum, so I might be a slight bit biased

we did it for a reason

 

[wetoolowdingbangow]

We started down the 241/205 route a few years ago (no plans at this point to revisit that) but we do have a few 31 spline shafts left that fit Ford 205 input gears (direct fit in big bearing GM cases). If you decide to got that route, I think we have 5 or so left.

My 241/205 was a great project for my college-kid-budget Blazer. I sold that t-case setup ~4 years ago I think, but it never failed me. Without machine work on the adapter, nothing was really aligned and that would kill splines/bearings if I put more than a couple hundred miles on it a year (trailer queen since 07 or so). Not sure how many miles it would've lasted, but not something I'd consider for a daily driver.

The 31 spline shaft between the 241/205 was always the part I was most afraid of. With 2.72:1 in the front gear box, any time you have the first gearbox in low, the intermediate shaft becomes the weak link in the system. Even though the 31/32 spline connections were the "heaviest duty" connection on the pre turbo diesel stuff, when you almost triple the torque on the input the shaft between the 241/205 becomes the weak link. Weaker than the 205 and, if it breaks, means no power to either axle (and if you think it's hard to find a new shaft at home/surfing on the internet )

The stock/welded 241 case wasn't awe-inspiring either.

Most people that have seen the other planet boxes with 23/31/32 spline intermediate shafts would be surprised how often we get calls to fit our Magnum shafts into theirs because theirs are broken. We don't do that, and they wouldn't fit anyway.

To me, we know our Magnum isn't cheap but I think the value is there. We us OE ring gears/planets and the huge main shaft is US made heat treated chromoly steel, more than 200% torque capacity of a 32 spline shaft (the biggest "budget" planet box shaft). You can (and I did) build a cheaper setup, but

Personally, I sold my 241/205 setup complete and replaced it with a Magnum/205. Gearing stayed the same (which I couldn't imagine being better) but the planet housing and intermediate shaft got WAY stronger. But, I did design the Magnum, so I might be a slight bit biased

we did it for a reason

Cool thanks for writing in. I was going to call ord to talk to you today about options but I was in the middle of something.

As enticing as the 241 sounds I get weird about buying something (the intermediate shaft) that isnt made anymore. I suppose I could make my own but im not jazzed about making hardened shafts.

I totally agree the magnum is the way to go, but im also in school and making a mortgage payment so I cant drop that coin. I may do it one day but for now I try to create and learn my own path just like you did with the 241 205.

My truck is pretty much a trailer queen. I enjoyed checking out your 241 build from 2009, reminds me of when I didnt have machines. Now that I have full access to all sorts of fun machinery theres no excuse not to make things.

I still have some questions about what ive got. I know I need to swap my inputs to 32 spline and I need the intermediate along with doing the bigger bearing for the 205 but what do I do with the driveshaft side of the 205? I imagine a yoke bolts on to the splines but I havent taken a good look yet. I wonder if the yoke on the chain side of the 203 will work?

 

[truck-oholic]

You have a fixed yoke rear output 205 which is a plus but that also means you will need a completely new driveshaft since you said you have a slip yoke style driveshaft. You can bolt up a regular yoke and run single joint or the better option is to get an adapter flange from a company like High Angle Driveline or similar and run a CV joint driveshaft with the slip down at the rear pinion. This would also require you to rotate your rear pinion up until it is pointing directly at your rear case output.

As far as interchanging yokes front to back it depends on the spline count. 32 spline outputs front and rear are preferred, especially if you are putting the torque of a doubler through them.

So, if your 205 case doesn't have 32 spline outputs front and rear and you want to do a 203/205 then it would be a good idea to upgrade to 32 spline outputs which means more $$$$ sunk into this "cheap" main case. Are you starting to understand why it is more cost effective to find something used that already has what you want?

 

[sweetk30]

My NP205 shifts so poorly, I hardly ever pop it out of gear. I am locked in the front, but I have hydraulic assist. Haven't really needed to.

Martin

stock single lever yes .

twin stick SO MUCH BETTER . and lube the rails a little bit now and then with little spray can oil helps a ton .

 

[nvrenuf]

I went with a twin stick on my doubler and I can barely feel the 205 defends now whereas they were very noticeable with the factory stick. I wish I had spent that money on a cable shifter now.

 

[wetoolowdingbangow]

stock single lever yes .

twin stick SO MUCH BETTER . and lube the rails a little bit now and then with little spray can oil helps a ton .

Ive heard the same. Ill definitely be twin sticking.

 

[skunked]

I went with a twin stick on my doubler and I can barely feel the 205 defends now whereas they were very noticeable with the factory stick. I wish I had spent that money on a cable shifter now.

did you modify rails or buy them? I would imagine that could play a role and also the spring pressure (or lack of) will effect the feel of those rails sliding.