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Lift/axle upgrade

B_Dub

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Mar 16, 2011
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Cheyenne, Wy
Here it is. My first K5

I want to start getting the parts together for my lift but as I was pricing parts some of them depend on my axles. I wanted to go 60/14 but after reading some threads I think it may be a waste. I'm basically building what someone here calls a "mall crawler" and think that 10b's would be ok for my use.

I want to run 35-37s and a lift that would clear that without trimming. I haven't found any rock formations in Mississippi so the only thing I'll be playing is mud...occasionally as this is my DD.

If I go with a D44/14 combo the parts should be about the same with those axles as with my 10b's, right?

I'm ready to start putting money in this truck but want to do it right the first time...I might not be able to talk my wife into letting me use all the tax return ever again.:laugh:

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then just get a 6" all spring lift with 35's and be done with it.
no big mods, and it will "look" good, and all you will need for the mall and the mud.
stock axles, stock gears, cheap and the big word EASY
 
At least look for a 6 lug semifloating GM14 bolt axle for the rear. The GM 10 bolt is really small and will probably be the first thing to break. Or you could put 8 lug outers on the front axle and a full floating 14 bolt in the rear.
 
I think he's planning on a 14 bolt.

X2 on the 6" springs and 35's. If you do go eight lug, look into the 37" humvee radials. They can be had on the cheap and will work well for what you need. With the 700r4 you might want a little deeper gearing though.
 
It's such a fine line here because you have to watch out for the snowball effect. :rotfl:

Buying a 3/4 set will likely yield better gears than you already have. You also need to know that the gear ratio will be the only real benefit of a 3/4 front axle because, aside from the extra lug nut's, it's virtually identical to your current front axle.

I do agree with the others though, with a standard 6" lift and 35's it will be fun to drive without the complications of a bigger or more flexy lift. The Tuff Country brand generally has the softest spring rates available so it'll still have a "soft" ride.

As for parts interchange, the 14 bolt will use different u-bolts than your 10 bolt so be careful not to buy parts you don't need/can't use. the rest should be plug & play.
 
I am worried about the snowballing but I'm also worried about steering. Is the arm that comes with most lifts reliable or are the steering components going to start failing too.
 
The arm is fine. If there's money in the budget, crossover is defintely the way to go but factory push/pull with do. I would very seriously consider the steering box weld on patch plate or bolt on brace... or both. Frame cracks are a factory option on these trucks so if it's not cracked now it will be, regadless of babied & stock or lifted & beat on.
 
The semifloater 14-bolt would be fine for the rear but If you do go with a full floater, try and get one from a 3/4 ton truck. It will have the spring perches right where you need them and you won't have to cut off and weld on new ones
 
If you are going to run that size tire DO A GEAR SWAP!!! You will regret it if you dont! Especially if you have an auto. You can run a 6" and 35's, but you may or may not have to change out driveshafts.
 
Going with shackle flip from DIY but when I was reading on ORD it seemed that they suggested 3" springs with their flip to get a 6" result. Does that sound right?
 
now where'd i put that lighting scaffold from the Nugent concert? :thinking::haha:
 
Well after a lot of debate here it is. 6" springs all around with 37" Pitbull Rockers

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