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lift blocks on front axel

12 inchs needs alot of mods to be safe stock steering with the raised block s arm and s drag link will after time rip the steering box out a list of some new parts u bolt shocks front shaft lengthen brake lines spring bushings crossover steering trac bar block to lower transfer case rear shaft lengthen rear shocks rear lift springs shackel flip or block w 8in springs bigger tires need more rear gear stronger axles it is very costly to do 12 inchs and bigger tires look at other ways to do it if your on a buget add a leaf cut fenders bushwacker cutout flares or smaller tires just something to think about
 
You need at least 44" tires to go with a 12" lift and even that is "too tall". You'll have to spend at least $1k to get your front driveline and steering to work. Probably more - so don't think of this spring swap as a quick fix. A K-5 has too short of a wheelbase for huge lifts so it is a lot of trouble to make them work.
 
The guy is going to swap everything with me except brake lines. Steering and everything else. My blazer already has 3/4 ton axels.
 
I ran 8" superlift springs for a couple of years and second the fact that you don't want to go to 12". If I remember correctly the 12" superlift kit is a 12" lift spring up front with 8" in the back and a 4" block.
It'll be VERY stiff.
 
12 inchs needs alot of mods to be safe stock steering with the raised block s arm and s drag link will after time rip the steering box out a list of some new parts u bolt shocks front shaft lengthen brake lines spring bushings crossover steering trac bar block to lower transfer case rear shaft lengthen rear shocks rear lift springs shackel flip or block w 8in springs bigger tires need more rear gear stronger axles it is very costly to do 12 inchs and bigger tires look at other ways to do it if your on a buget add a leaf cut fenders bushwacker cutout flares or smaller tires just something to think about
:bow: nice. :rolleyes:

"garble garble garble garble garble garble garble garble garble garble garble garble garble garble garble garble garble garble garble garble garble garble garble garble garble garble garble garble thereisnosuchthingaspunctuation garble garble garble garble garble garble garble garble garble garble garble garble garble garble garble garble garble garble garble garble"
 
:haha::haha:

There seems to be alot of pirate going on in this thread....



The notion that 12" springs do not flex isn't completely true.
Check my avatar. I cant remember who made them, but I think they were tuff countrys...they allowed for 36" of flex with 44's.. :rolleyes:


Speaking from personal experience, that much lift on a short wheelbase truck is a paint in the arse.

Steering gets buggered up, you'll wind up going to crossover steering, which isnt really worth the $500 unless youve got a D60 up front...

And then there's drive line angles. unless you plan on running a divorced case, your front driveline will end up being a double CV from Driveline tech, to the tune of 800 bucks.

You will clear everything you need to with a 8" lift.

If you need help sourcing parts etc, hit me up. I also have a 3" body lift im not using at my shop in camas if you decide to go that route.
 
The guy is going to swap everything with me except brake lines. Steering and everything else. My blazer already has 3/4 ton axels.

Do what you gotta do. There is a reason he doesn't want the 12" springs anymore. Just 'cause he was running it doesn't make it well thought out. Just make sure you get his kidney belt too. :rolleyes: :D
 
thats right. its your truck. Do what you gotta Do. but loose the front blocks ASAP no matter what.

but you can't say we didn't warn you abput all that was involved. and if you do put 12" springs in the front and don't do crossover steering. as soon as so flex even a LITTLE bit you will find out what its like to turn the steering wheel lock to lock and have NOTHING happen at the tires.

you drop the driverside wheel DOWN, your draglink is almost vertical. you have no steering. I've seen it 1st hand. You cant argue with geometry. and your driveshafts aren't going to be cheap. you'll have to turn your pinions up on both diffs. if you ever want a ujoint to live longer than 2 weeks.

..........and you want this to be your daily driver?

good luck with that.
 
The guy is going to swap everything with me except brake lines. Steering and everything else. My blazer already has 3/4 ton axels.

Push pull steering sucks. it sucks even worse with the 12" lift. its not worth the hassle trust me I've made that mistake. there are cheaper and safer ways to lift your truck



12" lift issues

#1 Drive shafts- you WILL need both shafts re-done

#2 Shackle angle- it sucks you'll need new Shackles and then have to relocate the shackle hanger further forward because 12" springs are shorter eye to eye

#3 Even if you relocate the front shackle ( see above) they still ride like **** and dont flex.

#4 It's too much lift you will not like jumping in and out off the damn thing as a DD ( I DD a truck on 12" lift and 44" TSL's it was a pain in the ass) It will also look goofy with only 38" tires and that much lift

#5 Cross-over steering is the only "safe" or "correct" way to steer a truck with over 6" of lift The Steering "corrections" suck at best.





You need to ditch the front blocks. and then purchase:

1" Zero rates $45.00
1.5" Longer shackles $40.00
2" body lift $150.00
New U-bolts $40.00
Sawzall Rent,Borrow,Buy



So for less than 300.00 you can get close to 4" more lift . ONE drive shaft will cost that much if you go to a 12" lift
 
I might be interested in the body lift moneypit.
Also is it easy to tell if the drivelne has been lengthened?
 
I might be interested in the body lift moneypit.
Also is it easy to tell if the drivelne has been lengthened?



With a 12" lift its not so much the length as the operating angle of the CV and hi-angle CV's are spendy
 
And without the high angle cv it would just go through them like crazy?

Without a high angle driveshaft, you probably couldn't have a front driveshaft. Most Blazers that are lifted that high don't have a front driveshaft for that reason. The joints would bind even at ride height.

There's more to the front driveshaft problem than it simply being too short. It doesn't need to be a cv driveshaft but the stock one won't work in any way/shape/form regardless of how long you make it.

But yeah, the more angle there is on a joint the faster it will wear out. Spicer specs their joints out for a maximum of ~3 degrees of operating angle, your front would probably be 10 times that.
 
lol so is he going to lift his truck 12 in ????? I have a 8in and its high and im runnen 35s hes crazey or building a street queen
 
put a 2 inch front add a leaf in there about 60 bucks and they come with a new center pin

an add a leaf is only good for stock springs, lift springs already have an arch so an add a leaf has no effect.
 

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