That makes sense. If anyone would know about rear steer, it would be Jesse Haines, so kudos to you for doing your research. Keep up the good work!
CK5
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linked one ton escalade (coming back soon)
- Thread starter 85k5witha6.2
- Start date
Few weeks ago I set the A pillars I had made a couple years ago up in place. ( first picture) They didn’t fit well and had a large gap between them and the windshield
tonight I brought the Escalade back in and tightened up the fitment a lot (2nd, 3rd and 4th picture) I trimmed the passenger fender a little more but it still needs some work, and I need to build new hood hinges. The fender is easily removed if you remove the door, which takes all of 30 seconds, and slide the fender back.
I have an event in august I plan on taking this too and would like to at least have a shakedown run before then, I would really like to have at least the rear Dana 80 done and in by then, but who knows.. Also I am not allowed to spend any money at all for 3 more weeks
tonight I brought the Escalade back in and tightened up the fitment a lot (2nd, 3rd and 4th picture) I trimmed the passenger fender a little more but it still needs some work, and I need to build new hood hinges. The fender is easily removed if you remove the door, which takes all of 30 seconds, and slide the fender back.
I have an event in august I plan on taking this too and would like to at least have a shakedown run before then, I would really like to have at least the rear Dana 80 done and in by then, but who knows.. Also I am not allowed to spend any money at all for 3 more weeks
I forgot about this too, since I didn’t feel like pulling the 4l80 apart and adding a 2wd speed sensor I used some atlas parts we had laying around and then had a reluctor wheel machined to slide onto the 241 planetary. The computer will think it’s just a 2wd and shift at the same RPM no matter the transfercase ratio, I’ve seen people run it this way with no issue, also, the Speedo will be way off in double low, so in theory I can set the cruise at 5 mph 
since my wife finally got the email saying the loan and all my stories about where all my cash for our down payment came from were accepted, I can explain why the Escalade kind of got pushed back yet again.
On January 22nd I posted on here that I got an extra $1000 “bonus” I wasn’t expecting. Well that night we were driving around looking at houses on Zillow for fun. We stopped at a new housing development, she got pre-approved on the spot (if we could come up with 10 percent down by June 15) and all that was needed to reserve a plot and lock in a price was $1000 down. Thought it was worth the risk. Well Tuesday we wire the money and June 30th it should be completed and we will move in. We got incredibly lucky on the timing because since then the price of lumber has skyrocketed and the last one they sold of the same model was $56,000 more.
Now she is going to regret all the times she’s said “you can get that once I get a house”
On January 22nd I posted on here that I got an extra $1000 “bonus” I wasn’t expecting. Well that night we were driving around looking at houses on Zillow for fun. We stopped at a new housing development, she got pre-approved on the spot (if we could come up with 10 percent down by June 15) and all that was needed to reserve a plot and lock in a price was $1000 down. Thought it was worth the risk. Well Tuesday we wire the money and June 30th it should be completed and we will move in. We got incredibly lucky on the timing because since then the price of lumber has skyrocketed and the last one they sold of the same model was $56,000 more.
Now she is going to regret all the times she’s said “you can get that once I get a house”
Congratulations! You should both be very proud of yourselves. Looks like out by Tower RD?
Thank you! And I’m impressed, tower and 88th
edit: oh, I see the landfill is very easy to spot in the first picture haha
You definitely got in on timesince my wife finally got the email saying the loan and all my stories about where all my cash for our down payment came from were accepted, I can explain why the Escalade kind of got pushed back yet again.
On January 22nd I posted on here that I got an extra $1000 “bonus” I wasn’t expecting. Well that night we were driving around looking at houses on Zillow for fun. We stopped at a new housing development, she got pre-approved on the spot (if we could come up with 10 percent down by June 15) and all that was needed to reserve a plot and lock in a price was $1000 down. Thought it was worth the risk. Well Tuesday we wire the money and June 30th it should be completed and we will move in. We got incredibly lucky on the timing because since then the price of lumber has skyrocketed and the last one they sold of the same model was $56,000 more.
View attachment 380817View attachment 380814
Now she is going to regret all the times she’s said “you can get that once I get a house”
Alright I need help, finally put together the rogue fab bender I bought 2 years ago. I went to bend a piece of 2” .120 wall hrew for a test piece. It was an older piece and rusty but I sanded it down pretty good, I didn’t clean it perfect but didn’t think I needed to. It kinked it pretty bad. So I sanded the other end a little better and same thing, thought maybe it was the hrew, so I cleaned up one of my new pieces of DOM and it kinked it also, not as bad but still no where near useable.
so, the aluminum die itself is a little marked up from moving around for 2 years, is it possible it’s from that? I’m think about getting a short piece of tube wrapped in sand paper and running it around the die to clean it up.
I plan on calling in the morning, just thought I would see what you guys thought.
The bars I’m doing this week for the roof are only getting a few degrees in them, so I might just roll with it on that if I can’t get it figured out.
so, the aluminum die itself is a little marked up from moving around for 2 years, is it possible it’s from that? I’m think about getting a short piece of tube wrapped in sand paper and running it around the die to clean it up.
I plan on calling in the morning, just thought I would see what you guys thought.
The bars I’m doing this week for the roof are only getting a few degrees in them, so I might just roll with it on that if I can’t get it figured out.
Something is definitely not right, I wouldn't be happy with that.
The die, block and tube need to be smooth and slick. I lube mine with paraffin wax. I have only seen kinking like that in thin wall tube.
I think I figured it out, i think using the roller die and the rear support die was too much support so the tube was sliding almost too easy, I used the non roller die and just the front one and it seemed to bend ok. It still flattens the tube a little, but I think 2” .120 wall on a 6” CLR is going to, I wish they had an 8” 
That type of bender will crimp it a little bit. A mandrel bender is needed to not get the crimping.
I will be cleaning the other tubes before I weld anything don’t worry lol.
Bent the outside with 5 degree bends 1 foot in from the edge and it wasn’t quite enough to clear the roof, so I put a 7-8 degree bend in the middle, it takes a little under an inch to bend the 7 degrees, so I offset the tube 1 inch. I should have offset it half the distance of the bend obviously to center it, oops. Luckily the intersecting tubes aren’t centered on this one. I need more practice
The tube still was barely touching the roof so I hole sawed a small hole below it, regretted that right away, could’ve gotten away with just a hammer, so I’ll hammer the other 3 down and just fill this with a small piece of metal. Oops.
Bent the outside with 5 degree bends 1 foot in from the edge and it wasn’t quite enough to clear the roof, so I put a 7-8 degree bend in the middle, it takes a little under an inch to bend the 7 degrees, so I offset the tube 1 inch. I should have offset it half the distance of the bend obviously to center it, oops. Luckily the intersecting tubes aren’t centered on this one. I need more practice
The tube still was barely touching the roof so I hole sawed a small hole below it, regretted that right away, could’ve gotten away with just a hammer, so I’ll hammer the other 3 down and just fill this with a small piece of metal. Oops.
Is this an acceptable way to do this joint? Or should I trim the first intersecting tube a little more and make the second tube intersect both other tubes?
No. Do it right for a couple of reasons. Not intersecting them correctly makes 2 dead nodes. The strength you are trying to add will be reduced. It looks like the fabricator was lazy. Won't pass tech anywhere (for when you decide to race it).
Spend the little bit of time to make it right.
Unless you are taking it to SEMA.
Spend the little bit of time to make it right.
Unless you are taking it to SEMA.
I think it would look a lot better with two bends in each cross bar so it has a flat in the middle and not a single high point. I think you would be happier with the end result, especially if you want to strap anything up there. Remember, always work from the center out on the tube bending to minimize tolerance build up.
Also, on the two tubes, notch them both to intersect the front tube, and then just cut a straight line perpendicular to the cross tube off both of them on the inside where they contact each other, it will look much more professional.
Also, on the two tubes, notch them both to intersect the front tube, and then just cut a straight line perpendicular to the cross tube off both of them on the inside where they contact each other, it will look much more professional.
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The cross bars actual have 3 bends in them, In the picture you can just only see the middle one.
as for the intersecting tubes, I’ve always thought that you don’t do it that way for strength, I agree it looks better but I’ve seen lots of cages where the first tube is welded all the way around and the second tube is coped it it or both the others.
but at the same time, it is just a trail rig and it’s like 12 feet up In the air
Edit: I could redo the back tube since it’s much more noticeable the bend in the middle is much more than the 2 side ones. Since the front on gets 4 tubes intersecting it you don’t see it, but I agree, it would look better if it was flatter in the middle
What exactly is the correct way? Make both tubes go only to the cross tube and only overlap them like 1/4 inch?
2 right ways. Like @folkenheath said or fully weld one on and overlap the second one 50%. So the second tube would be double notched. That is how most trail type rigs are done.
Ok, thanks! I’ll probably try and overlap it 50 percent, just gotta trim the first one a little more to move it over a little
