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Little Input + 12V Cummins Swap

I guess the extra 150 lbs. or whatever might be able to move the springs a little more, but I can't imagine Rough Country springs ever being too soft for any application.

This may be unrelated, but I put some RCs on a 1980 Toyota pickup about 15 years ago and they were so stiff that I didn't have to run any shocks on the front because the suspension never flexed at all. It probably would have moved a little if I had jumped the truck, but I would likely have had some compressed vertebrae or something afterwards. Just driving down the road was miserable.
 
i have owned a couple sets of springs on my chebbies. skyjacker, bds, and rancho. all where good. my k5 currently rides well in the front with a big bumper/8274 combo. total truck weight 5800lbs. it would probably be alot better if i had some better shocks.
my brother had some 6" pro comps, and they where actually better than i was expecting, but he had a really heavy bumper/winch combo. they where really cheap. iirc like $320 with a d44 steering arm, blocks, u-bolts and shocks. they where wierd, the center was completely flat in the center and the arch was only on the ends. they where also tall. 1"-2" taller than my skyjackers. the pack was prob. 4" thick.
my rancho 4" fronts where ok, but i dont know if they where the h.d ones or not.
bds ones where nice, but they seemed worn by the time i got them, and theguy i got them from said they weren't very old. i dunno.


i dont know if i helped:dunno:
 
i dont know if i helped:dunno:
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It did, and I think Im gunna order a set of 3.5 Superlifts, I like the ride and the ones I have are old as dirt. A new set should live a good life... I got my tires today finally, cutting the new set on tons out of M1028 on Sat and taking two weeks off at Thanksgiving to let-er-have-it!

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Awesome. I can't tell from the pics if those are the bias ply 36s or the radial 37s. Are you going to get the wheels recentered or just run them as-is?
 
Awesome. I can't tell from the pics if those are the bias ply 36s or the radial 37s. Are you going to get the wheels recentered or just run them as-is?
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Morning, those are the 37's, the 36's are total pieces of $!*&e.... Check out post #36 for the rest of the info...
 
Okay. Those spacers look pretty trick. It may have been cheaper to get the wheels recentered trom TWF, but with the spacers you can use any old HMMWV wheel. I've heard that the 37" radials are way better and more round than the old 36s. As far as fabbing your own cross over steering, I can't think of anyone right off hand that's done it recently because there are so many good parts now from ORD, DIY4X, Ballistic Fab, Norhtwest Fab and others. If I was wanting to fab my own crossover, I think I would just look at those setups and try to copy (or at least get ideas from) some of them.

I think your truck is going to turn out really nice. You'll have the coolest crew cab in the Caribbean!:woot::thumb:
 
Those spacers look pretty trick. It may have been cheaper to get the wheels recentered trom TWF, but with the spacers you can use any old HMMWV wheel.
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Yeah, I got the wheels and tires from TWF (good guys BTW) I like the H1's because they are what they are. Everybody talks about recentering them but then they bare no resemblence to H1's :confused:..Cheep bead lock though... I think I payed 4 and change for the spacers IMHO they will be fine there will be no more stress on the upper and lower KP than a dually hub and when installed/maintained by a person who knows what he's doing, no problems... + I can swap rims if i want, you know....
 
Are the spacers aluminum or steel? I'm thinking about doing something like what you're doing in the future.
 
Happy belated Thanksgiving, I was going to do most of the planned work on the truck over my vaca but it started out with a pinched nerve in my sholder that was totally debilitating....and now im well into a sore throat, havent been sick for two years so I guess it was commin.. I feel like :zombie18:though....
I did manage to get the new/old parts truck picked up and the axles removed.. I had to take one of my H1's to the machine shop to press out two substantial bends on the 0-ring face; the outter half would barely go down over the studs because they were so bent twards eachother... not to mention it came apart hard (that was the tip off)... I prepped all 4, blasted the outters, ran a die down over all the studs, ordered some new nylox nuts, valve stem O-rings, stud nuts and painted w hammerite..

I decided to take the 4.56 R&P out of the new/old axles and put um in mine just because I havent done it b4 and i'd like to... 2morro I'll start that process... I'm still scrouging around for steering parts on a budget.... Any suggestions for penny pincher crossover? Also, I'm looking at this pic of my truck w the baldinnies on it and I'm wondering if I should offset my zero rate to move the axle fwd an inch... Any thoughts?

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Lots of guys have moved their axles forward with zero rates either 1" or even 1.5". I asked that same question recently and got several replies saying that guys had moved the axle 1.5" forward and still had enough front driveshaft spline engagement for everything to work properly. They did it for fender clearance and said that even with the stock steering, they didn't notice an increase in bumpsteer, despite the shortening of their drag link that had to occur to line up the steering after the swap (that was my concern). I think you should move it forward 1" and then wait until you do your crossover to see if you want to move it forward all the way. I can't remember if you said you were going to do the 52 or 54 swap in the front. Proabably not, but if you do, I think you will want to move the axle 1.5" forward then. You'll have to do crossover with the 52 or 54 swap.
 
I think you should move it forward 1" and then wait until you do your crossover to see if you want to move it forward all the way.
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Thanks, I'm gunna take a look when I get the front end unbolted for them. Dose anyone have a napa part number or crossover number for the H1 1/2x20 wheel studs? The F!$k!!! last stud I tightened today pulled the threads. Id like to find one on Island if I can, don't really want to wait for another order to show up to put this thing together.... Pic of the tropical assembly line....

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thats a pretty sweet "workshop" you have here!
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Yeah, if you dont mind goin through the deck every once in a while, or subjecting yourself to the possibilities of Denge fever....I thought the misquitos in Maine were bad...!

I know I said I wanted pull the gears from the 1028 axles and put um in mine but I think it will just be less time consuming and wiser to take the best of both and put um together, better for the wallett too... I think I'll take the outters and axles from my front and put um on the 4.56'd axle and then just bolt the 4.56'd 14B in..
 
bad larry said:
Yeah, if you dont mind goin through the deck every once in a while, or subjecting yourself to the possibilities of Denge fever....I thought the misquitos in Maine were bad...!

I know I said I wanted pull the gears from the 1028 axles and put um in mine but I think it will just be less time consuming and wiser to take the best of both and put um together, better for the wallett too... I think I'll take the outters and axles from my front and put um on the 4.56'd axle and then just bolt the 4.56'd 14B in..
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thats probably a good idea. if you changed just the gears, you would want to do bearings, and you would need a master kit with shims and get new seals and... it ends up being a snowball. ask me how i know:doah:
 
ask me how i know:doah:
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I can tell by that list if chebby stuff you have known more than one time....
I got a question for ya though.. If I'm not gunna lift my truck any more and I stay with this 3.5" lift thats prob 2.5 or 3 at this point, what are my options for making this steering more solid.. I still have the push pull and I'm under the impression that really you want to be at at least 4" of lift b4 crossover....? :confused:
 
Back to work this week....:doah: Looked like someone had a little $15K problem while I was gone... bunch of fruitloops runnin our line handeling tug lettin her have it w line in the wheel :woot:....Still workin on annihilating this cold of mine w vitamin C.. I came home today and decided I'd rip the front end apart I got from the parts truck. I hammered it w WD last week, it payed off... Though, if the military was into this thing B4 they honestly lubed it up good w neverseize and some decent EP greese it looked real nice inside. There were no signs of H2o contamination... I took me a while to get my chit together so I only got one side dissassembled, came apart nice though. KP looked nice, berring too, maybe i'll reuse... One beeeOtch was this fu$!ing spindle nut socket (that I ordered and was patiently waiting for!) was too small, 2-1/4 no good...... 2-1/2.....son-of-a... chisle and hammer no prob... ordered another spindle nut socket kit...

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Maybe you got the spindle nut socket for the 1/2 ton. I thought they were the same though...oh well, now you know. You'll be able to use the big one to put the hubs back together - and pretty soon from the looks of it. Good progress this week. Keep it up.
 
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